306 FMIC FAQ

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306 FMIC FAQ
#1
306 FMIC FAQ

Last Update: 20/11/2012
Reason for Update: Copied over from theywhoshallnotbenamed
Credit to Daniel306 for copying it over for me!


This is by no means perfect but will hopefully provide to be useful for any frequently asked questions about installing a front mounted intercooler to a Peugeot 306.

Please feel free to provide any questions and/or answers and I will move them to the top of this thread so they can be reviewed easily.

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#1.
Q) What does "FMIC" & "TMIC" mean?
A) FMIC stands for "Front Mounted InterCooler". TMIC stands for "Top Mounted InterCooler".

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#2.
Q) Why would I want to fit a FMIC?
A) By installing a FMIC your car will be able to provide a more air dense intake charge to the engine (colder air = denser air). This means that more air and fuel can be combusted per engine cycle therefore increasing the output of the engine and effectively creating more power.

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#3.
Q) Where can I buy a FMIC setup?
A) 306's never came with a FMIC as standard, and because of this adding a FMIC is considered a custom job. There are companies that can supply kits such as DERV Doctor. However it is usually cheaper and more effective to put a kit together yourself.

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#4.
Q) I have a 1.9 diesel turbo, so replacing my TMIC with a FMIC will just increase my cars performance with no additional work?
A) By adding a FMIC, it does not give you more power directly, but it enables you to cool the boosts charge more. This means you can use more boost to burn more fuel, which in return, gives more power. So whilst it gives you more potential it doesn't directly give more power. It will also sustain the power on hot days, without slowing down once warm.
Credits to DarrenJLob

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#5.
Q) I have a 2.0 HDi, will adding a FMIC increase my cars performance with no additional work?
A) No. By adding a FMIC the potential of the car is highly improved however in order to increase the power of the car a remap must be done. There are a variety of tuning companies and individuals who can offer a remap for your car. MrWhippy (Dave) is highly regarded by myself and others across the forum who can offer a variety of maps at reasonable prices. It's worth bearing in mind that when a powerful map is uploaded after the FMIC is fitted the clutch is likely to slip and a performance clutch must be fitted. MrWhippy offers a limited torque map which is defiantely a more cash friendly approach to this problem.

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#6.
Q) What Inter Cooler should I get?
A) There are two main types of intercoolers that people tend to use:

-Single Pass
[Image: photo026optimized-1.jpg]
(Chris's)

-Twin Pass.
[Image: DSC01689JPG-1.jpg]
(mongo's)

The arguements as to why you should get one or the other are endless. At the end of the day, twin pass are harder to find 2nd hand and are therefore costly to buy (around £80 - £130 brand new) where as single pass are avaliable from £5 upwards (2nd hand of course). Twin pass are usually tidyer as they sweep round one side of the radiator etc where as single pass must route around both (which usually requires cutting).

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#7.
Q) So what bits do I need for my custom HDi FMIC setup?
A) First you may want to consider how much money you have to spend. If your budget is endless then a twin pass would be my choice. Again it can be argued which type is better. I myself have gone for twin pass and will therefore list all the parts I'm using.

- Boost Gauge, Boost Pipe (Comes with Gauge) & Bleed Screw to tap and thread into Inlet
- (2x10") Slim Line Fans (I never put these on in the end, don't bother in my opinion)
- 406 Inlet Manifold & New Gasket (An essential part of the build, try to get the round ended 2.25" one)
- 406 Turbo Pipe (A good fit, but could ideally do with a couple of inches cutting off the larger end if you want to keep air-con)
- Large Twin Pass Inter Cooler (with mounting kit) (From Intercooler King on eBay)
- (2x) 1 Meter 2" Aluminium Pipe (The whole setup uses about 1.2 Meters so get 2M to be safe)
- (5x) 2" Silicone Bends
- (1x) 2" Double Humped Silicone Straight
- 2.25" > 2" Silicone Reducer
- (2x) 3" > 2" Silicone Bends
- Mikalor Clamps
- Aluminium Mounting Strips (for securing top of intercooler)
- MrWhippy Stage 2 Remap

Here is a couple pictures:
[Image: p1010947-1.jpg]

[Image: p1010946k-1.jpg]

[Image: p1010943j-1.jpg]


Obviously there are subsitutes for every FMIC build and cheaper/expensive options are avaliable.

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#8.
Q) So what are my options for remapping my HDi?
A) You can either go to a tuner who will upload the map for you or you can buy the gear needed to do it yourself. You need to buy a KWP2000+ which is used to read/write the ECU via the OBD2 port near the fusebox under the steering wheel. This is simple to do and takes a matter of minutes.

[Image: 925200835018213-1.jpg]


Here is an explanation on how to read/write:

KWP2000 instructions

VERY EASY TO USE:
- install the driverpackage to your notebook/pc
- connect the ecu-flasher to a free usb port
- point windows to the folder where you installed the driverpackage
- reboot

How to read data from a supported ecu:
- connect the hardware to your usb port and to the diagnostic port of the car
- start the communication software
- turn ignition on (not engine, just the ignition only)
- select the ecu you want to read/write from a list
- select additional options (if needed)
- click the read button to read out the original data (where supported)
- save the file to you HD, edit or forward it

How to write data to a supported ecu:
- connect the hardware to your usb port and to the diagnostic port of the car
- start the communication software
- turn ignition on (not engine, just the ignition only)
- select the ecu you want to read/write from a list
- select additional options (if needed)
- click the write button and select the file you want to write
- follow the instructions on screen
- switch off ignition and wait 10 seconds. done.

More information can be found here.

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Q) How do I bead my pipes so they're less likely to blow silicone off?
A) Preventing your IC pipes from blowing off by home built pipe beader.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...ler-pipes.html
Credits to Warlord0

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Q) If I'm fitting an uprated clutch, should I lighten my flywheel at the same time?
A) Look in This Thread. It's down to personal taste, the thread contains some strong opinions.

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Q) Can I fit my boost gauge before and/or after the FMIC has been done?
A) It's pretty pointless fitting one to the standard manifold but the principle is the same regardless of what manifold (306/406) your tapping a feed from. Here is a guide created by Shaw: Clicky.

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Q) I've fitted my boost gauge pipe feed but where can I run the pipe through into the car?
A) Theres a little gromit at the back of the bay that pops up at the top of the drivers footwell. I can't really discribe it so I've circled it in a picture:

[Image: boostfeed-1.jpg]
Supercharged GTi6 Build
S14 Zenki Build
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#2
Very nice
[Image: edit2_zpsbe60b3ca.jpg]

Team derv FLAME and CONROD spitters
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#3
Might incorporate this into the other FMIC FAQ if you dont mind.

TBH we really need to tidy up this section.
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#4
the links dont workk....would quite like to see the lightened fly wheel discussion
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#5
(21-11-2012, 08:27 AM)sean-306 Wrote: the links dont workk....would quite like to see the lightened fly wheel discussion

+1
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#6
Links work fine for me.. o.O

Feel free to do what you want with it Chris.
Supercharged GTi6 Build
S14 Zenki Build
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#7
link works if your cs on .net which i'm not whistle
Don't worry about what I'm doing, I want you to worry about what you're doing
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#8
Why do i need the 406 inlet manifold carnt i just use the exsiting pipes from the top mount intercooler?
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#9
This guide is for a hdi
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#10
the guide is for any diesel 306 you just amend for xud or dw10
Don't worry about what I'm doing, I want you to worry about what you're doing
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#11
Oh my bad lol.
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#12
Might be a retarded question, but it is 6:41am.

Do you lose your TMIC when you upgrade to FMIC?
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#13
(16-12-2012, 06:41 AM)RePT Wrote: Might be a retarded question, but it is 6:41am.

Do you lose your TMIC when you upgrade to FMIC?

Yeah you remove the TMIC and fit the FMIC
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#14
(16-12-2012, 06:41 AM)RePT Wrote: Might be a retarded question, but it is 6:41am.

Do you lose your TMIC when you upgrade to FMIC?

you don't lose it unless you leave it out and some of your pikey mates steal it . . but it does need removing yes . . Wink
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#15
I can't hide the hole for we're to run the boost pipe how far down is it? Behide the engine?
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#16
(23-01-2013, 08:55 AM)Ben hdi306 Wrote: I can't hide the hole for we're to run the boost pipe how far down is it? Behide the engine?

Im not overly sure on Hdi's but i know to the right of the brake servo the is a grommit which you can use, you'll have to get down low to see it, but with a torch and your chin on the slam panel you should be able to find it!
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#17
In the middle of front mounting my hdi and have a bit of bother fitting the inlet because of the egr and don't know what to do with the pipe below the new inlet
[Image: null_zpsb713d99e.jpg]
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#18
what pipe do you mean? ideally while you are at it you should blank off the egr with a plate. if you mean the pipe going to the turbo then obviously it will now go from the inlet to the cooler, and then to the turbo

oh and apparently moving the old pipe from inlet to turbo is a bitch, only some people seem to manage to get it out whole
[Image: 20gh7o0.jpg]
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#19
When we took the old inlet of it was going into a pipe In below and with the new inlet and there's no where for the pipe to go, it's the big pipe in the pic ^
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#20
Pull the pipe out, it is possible to get it out in one piece, but unless you're planning on keeping it i'd cut it in half wherever you can and pull each end out separately.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#21
Has anyone got a pic of the pipe coming from the turbo to the cooler that's on the car?
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#22
I have front mount fitted and when she's ticking over she's a lot louder round the engine than before and she won't rev at all?
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#23
Stick up a rough diagram of the pipe routing you have done so people can see it
[Image: 20gh7o0.jpg]
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#24
Got the problem sorted the pipe wasn't on the bottom
Of the air box and there's a wire broke on the accelerator cable

Here's how I done my fmic took me 6 days on/off at it never again lol
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[Image: null_zps14d63241.jpg]
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#25
Good man! now to get a decent map on
[Image: 20gh7o0.jpg]
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#26
you're going to fubar that boost pipe when you see any kind of big bumps.
00' 106 Indy - Moonstone - Sold
97' 106 XT 1.6 - Mayerling Green - Swapped
95' 306 P1 DT - Onyx - Scrapped
97' 306 P2 DT - Silver - Scrapped
97' 306 P2 DT - Onyx - SORN awaiting scrap
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#27
Ano lad
Fubar ? The car is on hydraulics
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#28
ahh fair one Tongue

would be a nightmare if it was that low static lol
00' 106 Indy - Moonstone - Sold
97' 106 XT 1.6 - Mayerling Green - Swapped
95' 306 P1 DT - Onyx - Scrapped
97' 306 P2 DT - Silver - Scrapped
97' 306 P2 DT - Onyx - SORN awaiting scrap
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#29
Yeah it just wouldn't work the way I done it lol
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#30
Knowing how low your cars normally are, i'm still going to say that lower pipe is going to get totalled on the road. Confused Had you thought about routing it back down the side of the rad, or up through the slam panel (cut a notch for room)?
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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