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19-03-2018, 10:25 AM
Recently bought a £500 2.0 HDi 90 with 135k on the clocks. Had a new clutch in 2015 with proof so that's good.
Only problem is it's got an unknown tuning box presumably an eBay one as it's unbranded. the owner told me it had ten setting and that he had set it to number 5 which is apparently a good balance between power and mpg.
Here's the thing I can't see it being all that good and just want it gone it's plugged into the front of the engine I'm assuming its the fuel rail?
If I want to remove it do I simply unplug it and that's that or will there be another connector I need to plug back in?
Any help is greatly appreciated
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Yeah just unplug the box and there should be a yellow connector that the loom plugs in to.
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(19-03-2018, 10:56 AM)DeeTurbo Wrote: Yeah just unplug the box and there should be a yellow connector that the loom plugs in to.
Thanks bud was hoping it was going to be simple
Didn't want to unplug it if there was also something else hidden away I had to remove or mess with
Cheers
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Normally one end is connected to the main loom and the other to the fuel pressure sensor.
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(19-03-2018, 12:37 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: Normally one end is connected to the main loom and the other to the fuel pressure sensor.
Have you had any experience using one in your car?
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I knew someone who had one on, worked for a time then randomly the car cut out and refused to start. Unplugged the box and plugged it back in as stock car fired up and drove on with no issues. Never read the ECU for faults at the time.
Did plug the box back in after a time to see if it still worked (which it did) but then removed again due to risk of it cutting out.
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Many moons ago I had one fitted and to be honest it worked ok. With the cost of a remap being so low now I'd ditch it and get it mapped. You will see a vast improvement in performance from mapping.
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Thanks for the replies!
I emailed pro_steve at Hdi tuning and think I'm going to go for a Stage 1 125bhp remap and take the tuning box out
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24-03-2018, 12:40 AM
(This post was last modified: 24-03-2018, 12:41 AM by Uberderv.)
That's exactly what I did, you won't be disappointed.
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Anyone want to help me out here? I can't get it unplugged how do you get to the connector?
Anything I should take off?
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Pulling out the fuel filter housing makes it easier, but it is just a bit of a pig to access.
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(24-03-2018, 11:16 PM)Poodle Wrote: Pulling out the fuel filter housing makes it easier, but it is just a bit of a pig to access. Thanks Poodle
I thought that would help but wasn't 100% sure what it was. I'll give it another shot soon and see if I can get it out
I just turned the tuning chip down to 0 was set to 7 the max being 9 so this reduced or removed whatever it was doing.
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Just thought I'd update this
After changing the setting from 7 to 0 I got 50 miles~ extra from 15 litres~ of fuel
Feels slow as all heck but much better fuel mileage so i'm not going to complain too much
Need a remap ASAP
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25-04-2018, 12:22 PM
(This post was last modified: 25-04-2018, 12:24 PM by wainwrightj.)
Quick update/ warning
To begin let me just explain that my good mate has recently purchased a Toyota Celica and even more recently my girlfriend purchased a Mini Cooper S, 180bhp and 175bhp respectively. We were about to drive home after filming an exhaust install on the Celica I decided to max out to chip to at least give me a hope of keeping up with these things in the HDi boasting an impressive 90bhp.
Minutes into the drive home I give it some in 3rd to see how she fairs, car lurches as if you've just down shifted and dumped the clutch, engine light comes on I start thinking *sh*t* I change down a gear to match the speed I'm currently going lift the clutch and nothing, I'm coasting up hill hoping I can make it to a lay-by, every other engine light comes on STOP light flashing the works I make it to a lay-by, open the bonnet turn the chip as low as it'll go and start the car up again engine lights still on but it runs, pop into Tesco come out start the car and the engine lights out crisis averted, *phew*.
Moral of the story accept you have a slow car and boast about your MPG not your 0-60.
Video mentioned above if anyone is interested
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7dHPotGwFs
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Just shows how s**t those chips are. I've read they're often just a simple variable resistor that alters the signal to a sensor or something. Might get away with a small level of change but the ECU's going to 'see' anything more significant as a fault.
Get it properly mapped & you can have a reasonably quick car & boast about your MPG!!!
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(25-04-2018, 12:47 PM)Mighty306 Wrote: Just shows how s**t those chips are. I've read they're often just a simple variable resistor that alters the signal to a sensor or something. Might get away with a small level of change but the ECU's going to 'see' anything more significant as a fault.
Get it properly mapped & you can have a reasonably quick car & boast about your MPG!!!
Exactly might go for an exhaust and fmic first money depending, definitely getting it mapped when funds allow
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Map is £150 from HDI-Tuning. You'll probably decide you dont need an intercooler if you get a proper map on it. The intercooler will only be useful for going stage 2.
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25-04-2018, 03:51 PM
(This post was last modified: 25-04-2018, 03:51 PM by wainwrightj.)
(25-04-2018, 03:46 PM)JTaylor2005 Wrote: Map is £150 from HDI-Tuning. You'll probably decide you dont need an intercooler if you get a proper map on it. The intercooler will only be useful for going stage 2.
Yeah I was in contact with him, don't plan on that so maybe just an exhaust thinking of decat and 'mid-box back-box' mod all in all should be less that £200
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Exactly. And it'll make a hell of a difference.
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Dont even bother with exhaust, just get it mapped.
Exhaust after.
Standard cars respond very well to mapping with no supporting mods.
The exhaust likely wont gain you much, if anything, over standard so just go straight for the map and enjoy it whilst you save for an exhaust if you still want it.
I Don't Have A 306.
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(25-04-2018, 06:13 PM)Danny Wideboy Wrote: Dont even bother with exhaust, just get it mapped.
Exhaust after.
Standard cars respond very well to mapping with no supporting mods.
The exhaust likely wont gain you much, if anything, over standard so just go straight for the map and enjoy it whilst you save for an exhaust if you still want it. You think? That'll be the plan then
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25-04-2018, 07:10 PM
(This post was last modified: 25-04-2018, 07:11 PM by Danny Wideboy.)
Definitely.
A:- Get re-map.
2:- Reap ALL OF TEH BENEFITZ!
D:- Start saving money for MOAR BOOST.
4:- Exhaust, maybe.
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26-04-2018, 06:03 AM
(This post was last modified: 26-04-2018, 06:03 AM by Poodle.)
Do the exhaust first if anything, has a huge effect on how the engine pulls and responds, even before a map. Also will help reduce back-pressure and keep egts down at healthy levels.
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(26-04-2018, 06:03 AM)Poodle Wrote: Do the exhaust first if anything, has a huge effect on how the engine pulls and responds, even before a map. Also will help reduce back-pressure and keep egts down at healthy levels.
Seconded.
Plus if it's a GOOD stg1 map... You will melt the cat
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(26-04-2018, 11:31 AM)Piggy Wrote: (26-04-2018, 06:03 AM)Poodle Wrote: Do the exhaust first if anything, has a huge effect on how the engine pulls and responds, even before a map. Also will help reduce back-pressure and keep egts down at healthy levels.
Seconded.
Plus if it's a GOOD stg1 map... You will melt the cat
Sounds good I'll go with this
Not planning on doing anything as crazy as your LEMOAN but where did you get the exhaust done is it a 3" Stainless jobby??
What would you recommend "2.25 or would that still be over kill for stage 1?
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Standard exhaust is 2.25" iirc so not overkill
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(26-04-2018, 11:44 AM)Midnightclub Wrote: Standard exhaust is 2.25" iirc so not overkill
So would a decat slightly more free flowing (straight throughish mufflers?) 2.25" exhaust be a good option?
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Stock size is 2.25". It's about freeing it up. Rear silencer and cat are the restriction.
Tiggy' did my exhaust system. He does custom systems
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(26-04-2018, 12:28 PM)Piggy Wrote: Stock size is 2.25". It's about freeing it up. Rear silencer and cat are the restriction.
Tiggy' did my exhaust system. He does custom systems
So decat, mid box mod it is then sounds like that's going to be the cheapest and easiest way to get it flowing better
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how will that go with the new regs?
It goes, it stops (as reqd).
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