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Door seal leaking, cant figure it out?
My door seal is doing exactly this:

I've now put a load of holes in the bottom / side of the seal which is helping, but its still leaking in a bit the carpet is getting really damp, but better than when it was an inch deep in water before. I can't find the source of the leak!??!?!

Is it bad to just add more holes to that seal? Do I need to find the source? 

Also, I'm drying the carpet out really well once I've bailed out the water, but I wonder if there's still a lot of damp under the carpet??
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Is it leaking in via speaker?
Wishes for more power...
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Mine was leaking into the drivers footwell from behind the door card via the speaker as mentioned above, doing this resolved it for me:

[Image: z5kSga2l.jpg]

Ideally you would tape up the foam bits but mine were ruined
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LOL that's good, sorry dude I know how you feel.

The passenger front footwell on ours was getting very wet, found water coming in thru speaker. Pug wanted summut like £35 plus vat for the plastic sheet, so made repair with blue dpc and duct tape.

Maybe water getting into door seal from the top and being unable to drain well from the bottom. Make better drain holes in bottom area of the seal so it drains. Door card off and water hose while you/she looks inside for the leaks.

Suspect the water leak in the back of our estate may be coming in thru the door upper weather seal fastening holes. Will be taping off that area and playing with the hose pipe now its dry today.
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mine was getting in through the mirror--where it attaches to the door....silicon sealer fixed it.

also I cut about 4 holes along bottom of door seal where it faces outwards towards the door itself.

and if your door panels off, make another door membrane and duct tape it on as well !
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don't use duct tape its not waterproof better to use some butyl tape or cord
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Ahh I am having the same issue with mine! I will have a look at fixing mine now based on whats in this thread Smile
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[Image: IMG_20180218_135210.jpg]

So with just a bit of rain today I managed to catch it at just the right time to see where exactly this leak first starts coming in. It's about 10cm left of the speaker when the door is shut (although in this image it looks like the speaker lines up with the leak).

I took the speaker off but it was all bone dry in there, although I'd need more rain to be sure it isn't coming out of here. I'm feeling a bit guilty now I've just butchered my seal a bit too much so I may have just made things worse I'll have to wait and see!

I've only recently started trying to do things myself with the car, I've got a Haynes manual on the way (only cost me £3!) so hopefully this will show me how to take a door card off and I might find it easier than referring to YouTube as I tend to get distracted!
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When the door card is off, get an assistant to spray a gentle hose of water. Get an old kitchen knife to help with the door card plastic clips. They tend to break anyway so you will probably need some new ones of those.

The membrane plastic sheet, I use the blue damp proof course stuff

Think "roof" when sealing up the sheet, so water runs off.

The Nissan bit of junk the lad had that had a swimming pool in the passenger foot well deep end, the membrane sheet was leaking just below a drain hole designed to drain water to the inside of the car door, and then away. We thunk roof and after that it was dry, then the inj pump committed suicide.

Its shortly to be sent to Nissan heaven.

Back to the pug, the water will appear between the very thin gap between the door pocket plastic and door steel.

If you carefully remove the door seal and lift the carpet, and place a brick or similar to keep the carpet up, that will help with drying out the sponge. Crunched up new paper also works well. Airflow is the answer.

CharliO, is there a tear in the door seal upper area ?? allowing water into that "tube".

If the carpet is wet, the sponge backing will be soaking.
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If you pop off the speaker cover you will likely see a small water path coming between the door card and the door under the speaker.
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Resolved this in the end! If it's any use to anyone, I kept experimenting cutting holes in the outside facing edge of the seal. The seal has absolutely huge holes in the side of it now, seems counter productive but its stopped the water leaking in Smile

Any problems this might create cutting the holes in?
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Possibly leading to a "tear", but apart from that i dont think it will cause a problem, a bit less of a cushion effect on closing the door maybe......perhaps burning/quaterising a hole in the rubber seal would be better, but be aware that some of these automotive rubbers produce a very bad acid when burnt that lingers for ages.........

As long as the seal is still round and springy to actually seal itself against the door seal area, then i suppose its better than having water in the car, defo better as winter is coming, warm winter day, humid car inside, electrical connections get a bit damp, it freezes that night and hay presto, loads of wierd electrical alarm/immobiliser/central locking etc. problems the next day.......
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So you basically bodged it and made the water leaking in drain out.
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What pray are the oe holes in the rubber for, to let air out when the door is closed, multi function when they start to leak, better out than in I suppose.......

I will check if there are these "air holes" at the top of the seal but i dont think pugeot are that daft.......

When i did the door card inner seal, the one that blanks off the access holes in the door for the fitting of the window/locks etc.. the oe pug spare part was about £40 !  I made do with the blue DPM and gaffa tape, which works great !

Needs must as long as its not "safety critical", illegal etc..

Cable ties or oe clips at 85p plus vat a go.......there are something like 24 cable ties holding the front of the engine under tray on our car, thats just the front of the under tray, all the others are oe quick release clips and the 2 back bolts.

I didnt buy a new under tray but repaired the old one, made 6mm bolt on repair pieces for the bad areas.......a bogde...........but it worked and is still working ok.

Maybe the water is pooling at the top of the seal and getting into the tube thru a crack, renew the seal at what ever the cost......then eventually get a new car.........

I'm not "having a go" but when you have spent hours and hours and hours searching for the fault, with no success.........its nice when you stop bashing your head against a brick wall...........

I'm still having soooo much fun searching for the fault when the central locking goes buzzerk, strongly suspect water entering the door loom cone inside the door as its cracked to hell, it has been letting in water by the looks, just trying to arrange a time so i can attend to the wires.

I propose using 7 core trailer cable in a group of 3 ( 21 wires ), all colour coded and listed . The trailer 7 core cable is flexible so should cope with the door opening and closing ok, and will be a continuous run from inside the car to inside the door, unless you can suggest where i can get a pug repair section for similar money ?? please.....
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(07-09-2018, 10:01 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: So you basically bodged it and made the water leaking in drain out.

Yup. Car cost £600, wasn't worth spending the money on taking this to the garage as I wasn't able to fix it properly myself. I'm just glad the water isn't getting in anymore which would have eventually meant a mouldy carpet and rusty floor pan
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and problematic electrics/electronics........
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Just to add- if you remove the scuttle and wiper motor there's usually loads of crap there blocking a drain hole which can then seep in behind the dash. My 306 used to suffer from constantly misting windows and damp, plus it corroded the back of the instrument cluster rendering it scrap.

Cleaning this area out would be good.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
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