d turbo now wont start

Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
d turbo now wont start
#1
My brother went to the d turb earlier to go and get juice and failed to start, not even a flicker. turns over fine but wont fire. No smoke out the exhaust either. The fuel lights been on for a day but not at the bottom of the guage

I jumped in it yesterday and had to pump the fuel balloon thing 3 times and it went fine...

Once they get low on fuel does it just not prime to the pump? As if i block off the return and pump the balloon, after 3 pumps it gets tight. When I unclamp the return it goes soft again.


Is it just hella low on juice or is the fuel running back somehow?

cheers
Reply
Thanks given by:
#2
tried putting some more fuel in?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#3
yes got near half a tank now. got diesel as far as the bosch pump, got all the injector pipes slackened off at the pump but still cant get any diesel through. how do i bleed the pump?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#4
zx_volcane Wrote:tried putting some more fuel in?


Lool top tip indeed
Reply
Thanks given by:
#5
been told just to squeeze the pump thing till it goes hard, then a bit more. I've squeezed it about 50 times and its not pressurising. Got all the pipes tighened back up, short of dragging it up and down the road till it primes itself im short of ideas
Reply
Thanks given by:
#6
If the spring lever at the front of the pump is resting on the left screw I pulled it to the right ( I don't have a screw on the right) but it would rest on that maybe cold idle? If someone knows more... not sure what it does but it works, if that helps?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#7
Just put a new primer in only a few quid sounds like yours is getting air in.
Bye Bye D-Turbo
Phase 1 GTi-6 now has a new owner
Rolling in the: Phase 3 HDI Wagon

The current estate project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-22237.html
Reply
Thanks given by:
#8
Prime it with the bulb primer until it goes hard and slacken off the union connetions on the fuel lines where they connect to the injectors and then get someone to turn it over (do it in busts or 5-10 seconds to save killing the starter motor........) until you get diesel coming from the lines at the injector end as as you start getting squirts out of the slackened connections nip them up one by one.

It wouldn't hurt to crack off one fuel line on the pump end of the lines and turn it over with the key just to make sure that there is fuel coming from the pump before doing the above Smile
Team Orange Engine Bay

My flickr photostream - http://www.flickr.com/photos/markairey
Reply
Thanks given by:
#9
As said, air leak.

Behind the deisel filter there'll be a hole with a spikey plastic bit in, the rubber seal in this will have perished.

My 106 was a bugger for this for weeks, take the unit off, strip it all out and dry it, then fill it with silicone sealant. place a 2p over the top of the hole so it's sat like a manhole cover does
(flush to the road) then silicone that in place too. Leave to dry for a day = winner.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#10
Cheer for the replies!

This only occurs when there's a quarter of a tank or less of juice, would that rubber seal still be the culprit? Quarter of a tank or more and it starts every time
Reply
Thanks given by:
#11
Eeek - don't use silicone sealant on Diesel related parts...

Diesel will eat it in no time at all, and Silicone dissolved in Diesel systems means it gets very hot and it gunks everything up...

Make sure you use Diesel/Fuel rated sealant.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#12
Ruan Wrote:Eeek - don't use silicone sealant on Diesel related parts...

Diesel will eat it in no time at all, and Silicone dissolved in Diesel systems means it gets very hot and it gunks everything up...

Make sure you use Diesel/Fuel rated sealant.

why ever not ruan, it will be fine right up to the point where the diesel eats through the silicone and then there could be a little bit of diesel making a bid for freedom but other than that..................
Team Orange Engine Bay

My flickr photostream - http://www.flickr.com/photos/markairey
Reply
Thanks given by:
#13
this spiky plastic bit, ive taken a photo of the filter housing, is it this bit on the left hand side towards the back? a white plastic insert in it, can see a rubber ring in there too


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
Reply
Thanks given by:
#14
mark_airey Wrote:
Ruan Wrote:Eeek - don't use silicone sealant on Diesel related parts...

Diesel will eat it in no time at all, and Silicone dissolved in Diesel systems means it gets very hot and it gunks everything up...

Make sure you use Diesel/Fuel rated sealant.

why ever not ruan, it will be fine right up to the point where the diesel eats through the silicone and then there could be a little bit of diesel making a bid for freedom but other than that..................

It dissolves into the diesel, and gunks everything up... Normally I'm one for stick anything through a VE pump, but in fairness, dissolved Silicone does gunk shit right up - same as what happens if you use Silicone hose as leakoff pipes, just disappears and manks up your injectors.

When it gets hot it manky as feck, supposedly all around the nozzle seats and stuff...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#15
I had done this to my old filter housing as it was leaking from there. Kept eating the silicone.
So ended up doing this- [Image: IMAG0870.jpg]

Only cost about £8 for the filter. Well worth it IMO, better flow, easier to change and much less likely to leak.
Stage 2 XUD Sedan
Reply
Thanks given by:
#16
that looks a pretty nifty solution to me! Is it a diesel specific filter, or just a motor factor one? Basically overides the standard fuel filter and plumbing
Reply
Thanks given by:
#17
Yeah - inline filter ftw...

Even better - spin on!
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#18
strictly_derv - What have you done with the leak off pipes off the pump & injectors? I've bypassed the peugeot fuel filter and put an inline one in, and blanked off both leak off pipes temporarily.

Are they needed? Becuase I went to look at a friends d turbo earlier with a standard lucas pump on it and the leak off pipe off the injectors is blanked off on that... Confused And there isnt a leak off on the lucas pump that i could see

thanks
Reply
Thanks given by:
#19
this constant starting problem is really starting to piss us off now.

Purely for fault finding reasons, i've plumbed the diesel feed from the primer bulb straight to a clear inline filter, then to the pump inlet. I've fitted a non return valve before the primer bulb, and the fooking fuel is still running back!! Doh

One thing I cannot fathom though is why would there be air leaking back out of the inlet to the pump? i pulled the end off the filter end with the other end on the pump and you can hear it hissing back up the pipe, and only stops when a finger is placed over the end.

So next i decided to plumb the primer bulb straight to the pump (purely for fault finding reasons) and its still not holding pressure.

WTF is going on with this old dog?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#20
The leak off on mine goes into the fuel return pipe, as standard.
All I can suggest is that the pump has a seal gone and is getting air in. Has the pump been opened up? If it's a lucas then the plastic cap to get in-side to the fuel screw could be leaking if it's been opened before.
Stage 2 XUD Sedan
Reply
Thanks given by:
#21
its got a stage 1 tuned bosch pump. how many seals has it got? and any idea where they are?

cheers!
Reply
Thanks given by:
#22
update for those who have helped and those who might be following it.

Got under the bonnet today with a multimeter, and with ignition on i was only getting 0.1v at both solenoids. The bodging f***** who fitted the pump just soldered all the wires together in one big lump and stuck tape over them :|

So I found a red wire which switched on with ignition was going up to about 10.8v, and the solenoid wouldnt click open? So routed a wire straight from the battery live terminal and you can distinctly hear it 'click' open.

Found all this very odd and interesting all the same. So now we've got a manual switch for the solenoids tucked in the steering rake adjustment bit in the cab :mrgreen:

And also the fuel still seems to almost empty the inline fuel pump when the cars running, which all i can think of is what someone above said previously, that theres a seal gone in the pump and its not holding the fuel up, and allowing air to drop back in the pipe.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#23
(28-05-2012, 08:53 AM)Ruan Wrote: Eeek - don't use silicone sealant on Diesel related parts...

Diesel will eat it in no time at all, and Silicone dissolved in Diesel systems means it gets very hot and it gunks everything up...

Make sure you use Diesel/Fuel rated sealant.
My 1.5D 106 ran with the 'bodge' for about 10 months, no issues.Confused
Reply
Thanks given by:
#24
hey bufter, i see you havent been on here since august, i hope you still check your mail, ive got exactly the same problem you had, or have, i hope youve sorted it now m8. Ive got a mk1 405, bosch system. i put a newer IP on it, i think identical to yours there. Same problem, though. I swapped out the $hit old filter housing for a tidy inline filter, new primer bulb and all new fuel line and retrurn, sender unit is ok, pipes are tight. but somehow derv is emptying from lines. Like yours, i can fill the filter, its clear so i can see whats going on in there, but itll just drain out. Jebus knows whats going on...
Im thinking now its got to be the IP, ive got the stop solenoid wired obviously, the other solenoid at the front i have left, thought it was for a crash cut off or something. haha please tell me you found a solution !!!

cheers
Reply
Thanks given by:
#25
the other solenoid is for the cold start advance are you leak off pipes ok?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#26
(15-11-2012, 02:01 PM)vincent1 Wrote: the other solenoid is for the cold start advance are you leak off pipes ok?
[/amquote
yep leak offs changed for new ones, I cracked the fuel line open and primed until inline filter was full of air then cranked it back up, took it for a spin and already filter is about 1/4 full of air. I have no idea who this is happening grrrrrrr! !!!!
Reply
Thanks given by:
#27
Did the fuel filter have the o ring round the top to make a seal in the housing lid?
Reply
Thanks given by:
#28
I put an inline filter in mine once and that did the same,I could bleed it till it was full but once I started it it would empty to about half full I just put it down to the lift pump and the fuel demand from the pump.
I found mine had an airline crack on the fuel pickup pipe so maybe that's worth checking!!
Reply
Thanks given by:


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Wont start when warm HDIkyle 0 873 04-04-2014, 10:47 PM
Last Post: HDIkyle
  fitted new pump now wont start :( Tonibruce 27 8,843 15-09-2013, 06:34 PM
Last Post: Piggy
  Help 405 wont start/ turnover pug_dturb 3 1,311 16-07-2013, 11:10 AM
Last Post: andywhy

Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)