I've re-entered the world of 306 ownership today after 18 years away!
I've bought a 2001 306 HDI Meridian, 94k, smells a bit like dog inside (no offence meant if the original owner sees this!! :-))
Anyway, the plan is to get this little beauty shredding front tyres on my daily commute to make things more exciting!
I require some help and advice from people far more knowledgable than me as i'm not sure where to start.
The spec is as follows:
Hoffman Full straight through pipe
Sportex back box
Powerflex exhaust bracket
Full FMIC Piping setup
SRC sports dual pass intercooler imported from Portugal
New BLOX manual boost controller
Real MOMO steering wheel
Generic 306 boss kit
D Turbo spoiler
17inch alloys
GTI front springs fitted approx 3000 miles ago
Custom carbon skinned boost gauge pod with switches
Carbon skinned facia centre console
Carbon skinned Lid on small storage in centre console
Running standard mapping
Alongside this spec I bought the car with the following spare parts the previous owner had collected:
R70 high pressure fuel pump ( larger one)
Larger injectors
Brand new 1.6 HDI HIGH FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR
Angel eye headlights - one needs a re wire
Assorted Peugeot bolts
Length of lighting cable
K+N Air filter
Studs and caps for clipping plastics down if they come off
Multiple 406 Boost Pipes
2x 306 intake manifold
1 x intake elbow to allow to attach intercooler pipe
1x standard intake elbow
New unpainted grill
The previous owner has done some wiring modifications (good on him for trying) but I believe that more harm may have been caused than good.
Present problems:
Cracked and scuffed front bumper
Drivers side fog lamp missing
General scuffs around sides and rear
Rear wiper missing
Aftermarket panasonic stereo which doesnt find any stations and doesn't appear to be able to be switched off apart from when ignition is off
Loose boost guage and switches in centre console
Boost guage does not show boost pressure
Serious cabin and steering wheel vibration after 85 mph
Heavy clutch pedal
Front passenger side light and headlight not illuminating
Dog smell!
So, thats where i'm at. A bit of a to do list! Nothing major though which i'm quite happy about. Cambelt and Water pump were done about 30k ago, and the car has great service and mot history, looks like it's been well looked after.
Obviously i want to get more power out of this. In your opinion, with what I have available, what is the best and most cost effective way of doing this?
I shall be cleaning up the outside and doing some other cosmetic pieces in due course and will update with pics soon!
The exhaust isn't that loud to be honest, the backbox seems to be doing its job well!
It's certainly liveable with anyway, or is there a more technical reason for getting one?
Sounds like a decent list of bits the cars has had done and parts you've got with it. Pretty standard to have a list of bits that need doing on a 306 these days.
Any idea if its been remapped at all? With some of the stuff that has been done i would guess it has been.
20-07-2017, 07:44 PM (This post was last modified: 20-07-2017, 07:45 PM by Jonny-Derv-Beast.)
(20-07-2017, 05:37 PM)Frosty Wrote: Sounds like a decent list of bits the cars has had done and parts you've got with it. Pretty standard to have a list of bits that need doing on a 306 these days.
Any idea if its been remapped at all? With some of the stuff that has been done i would guess it has been.
Thanks Frosty!
No, it is on a standard map. The guy got part way through a project and couldn't finish it.
It's really slow at the moment!
What can be done with all the bits i've got?
(20-07-2017, 05:34 PM)Orta Wrote: Phase 3 5 door will look well on a set of cyclones mate, which can be sourced incredibly cheaply these days
All depends how far you want to go powerwise. The car should be pretty much ready for a stage 2 map with the bits it's had done. Just dunno how well the clutch would take it.
Interested to know about the bigger injectors? I expect they are just the newer style injectors from something like a 307 that a lot of people seem to think are bigger.
As for wheel you can't ever go to far wrong with just a set of clones on a 306. As it has been said can pick them up pretty cheap these days as well.
20-07-2017, 08:24 PM (This post was last modified: 20-07-2017, 08:38 PM by Jonny-Derv-Beast.)
(20-07-2017, 08:12 PM)welshpug Wrote: c5 wheels with those late type wheeltrims and some michelin energys would be good, light weight
As in Citroen C5 wheels? What sizes should I be looking out for?
(20-07-2017, 08:22 PM)Frosty Wrote: All depends how far you want to go powerwise. The car should be pretty much ready for a stage 2 map with the bits it's had done. Just dunno how well the clutch would take it.
Interested to know about the bigger injectors? I expect they are just the newer style injectors from something like a 307 that a lot of people seem to think are bigger.
As for wheel you can't ever go to far wrong with just a set of clones on a 306. As it has been said can pick them up pretty cheap these days as well.
As much power as possible! :-)
Would you have any clutches in mind for a stage 2 car at all?
I haven't had a chance to have a look at the bigger injectors yet, but I should be able to have a decent look tomorrow and let you know.
Tbh there is a fair bit to do to get decent power.
You need to knock the cat out, connect the FMIC piping to the engine and plumb in the boost gauge. At that point you can go for a stage 2 map. You can either go limited torque which should work on the original clutch or full fat which will need an uprated clutch. Both will see north of 150bhp but the full fat will have alot more mid range shove
I would make sure the intercooler and piping is all connected up and no leaks like dum dum says get the boost gauge up and running. So you can see how its running. Then as said get it remapped. Just done the same a few months back still in the standard clutch right now with a full stage 2 got mine from hdi tuning will really transform it and they are really helpful. I Just have to drive a round the torque if it starts to slip lol. I will be replacing the clutch once the standard one has give up but it was nearly new before i remapped it. I know i just been lazy ha ha.
The radio problem is pretty much down to the way these are wired. Think it's designed that it only becomes live with key in and turned on. You can modify it if you really wanted to but you would have to remember to turn it off or you will be coming to a flat battery.
I've got it booked in with Steve at HDI on the 15th so hopefully all the plumbing will be sorted and i'll have a new rude map installed!
I'm on the lookout for a few parts, hope someone on here can help out:
Both front headlights
Both front trim pieces from under headlights
Front bumper including fogs (not essential but for the right price could be a go-er)
Wing mirror caps
Rear bumper (again, not essential)
Managed to get the nut and other metal sleeve off the rear wiper arm. New wiper should arrive tomorrow so thats one job down.
The front trim pieces under the headlights were loose so I tried to have a fiddle with them, and one just broke off in my hand! So I need to sort those out.
The bodywork is straight, but I think a respray may be in order. I may tackle the job myself unless someone knows someone on here who can do a decent job for a decent price?
Also I want to do a few cosmetic changes. Is there an easy way to smooth the front bonnet? How easy is it to lower the car, is the rear a bit of a pig to drop?
05-08-2017, 06:27 AM (This post was last modified: 05-08-2017, 06:27 AM by Poodle.)
Sounds like the panasonic radio has got the wrong loom adaptor, try a new one, can them silly cheap on ebay. That or it's got some internal problems.
The trim under the headlights are known as hockey sticks and they all break like that lol. Probably largely to do with how old the plastic is and the clip design that means you can only remove them cleanly with the headlamp out. You could get them new for not a lot last time i checked, ebay again.
No easy way to smooth the bonnet, weld in a plate or apply a few layers of fibreglass and then the usual faff with filling to smooth it out. Don't forget you'll need to do the grill to match.
The rear beam is a pig to drop, worth checking the condition before you start (has it got any camber, etc), no point struggling to lower a beam you'll need to replace soon. There's at least one guide on how to do it in the guide section here.
(05-08-2017, 06:27 AM)Poodle Wrote: Sounds like the panasonic radio has got the wrong loom adaptor, try a new one, can them silly cheap on ebay. That or it's got some internal problems.
The trim under the headlights are known as hockey sticks and they all break like that lol. Probably largely to do with how old the plastic is and the clip design that means you can only remove them cleanly with the headlamp out. You could get them new for not a lot last time i checked, ebay again.
No easy way to smooth the bonnet, weld in a plate or apply a few layers of fibreglass and then the usual faff with filling to smooth it out. Don't forget you'll need to do the grill to match.
The rear beam is a pig to drop, worth checking the condition before you start (has it got any camber, etc), no point struggling to lower a beam you'll need to replace soon. There's at least one guide on how to do it in the guide section here.
Yeah, the guy who had it before me was an aspiring auto electrician, although he seems to have done more harm than good!
I've got loads of parts on order which i'll update you all with once they arrive.
I bought a new rear wiper arm, blade, two new blades for the front and a pair of washer jets (mist type in the fiat bag!)
All fitted this evening and all work a treat! Makes such a difference having working creature comforts.
I received a new interior clock, a pair of electric wingmirrors with body colour caps, a pair of leather rear headrests and an arch liner.
All were fitted over the weekend and all work/look great!
The previous owner had attempted to cover the wing mirrors with some kind of carbon wrap and had totally ruined them.
So yesterday I took a 340 mile round trip down to see Steve at HDI Tuning....
Firstly I just want to say a massive thank you to him. He went above and beyond the call of duty, and gave me some excellent tips and advice. Top guy!
The car is running sweet now! The remap has made such a difference. The drivability is much improved, both on the motorway and through city traffic, it's so much easier to drive.
I'm now running a full stage 2 with 155bhp and 360nm.
Steve deleted the egr and also fitted the 1800 bar fps. Unfortunately the one I got in the box of bits that came with the car, that was brand new, refused to work. Luckily Steve had a spare in his garage and very kindly sold it to me and fitted it for a reasonable price.
There were a few issues highlighted following the remap. In Steves words my clutch is "like buttuuurrrr!"
It has slipped a fair bit, but I am learning to drive round the torque to prevent it happening. Obviously it's going to need replacing to fully exploit the remap.
Also there was no air box or filter fitted to the car! I feel so stupid that I hadn't noticed this before and i'll be rectifying this as soon as possible.
So thats were i'm now up to!
Got a few other bits and bobs on order to tidy up the exterior, including a new set of headlights.
Oh, and if anyone has an uprated clutch for sale please let me know!
Thanks again to Steve, and if anyone out there is considering a remap, do it! And go to see Steve, he knows his stuff!
(16-08-2017, 10:27 AM)mr_fish Wrote: Get a photo up of your engine bay
Guessing your intercooler pipes go right where the airbox used to be so it never got fitted back on.
Would be looking to rectify that pretty sharpish
MAF is connected just after the box
photo for reference that intercooler pipe work will work with the standard airbox (stolen from google)
My intercooler is a twin pass, so where yours has the one pipe going across to the back of the bay, mine has two, one of which passes directly over the empty air intake pipe!
I have a k&n cone that came with the car and various pipes/clamps, so i'm going to have a go at squeezing it in tonight.
I shall take a photo, hopefully a before and after success shot!
Making great progress with this. Sounds like the previous owner was a bit of a liability lol, good job you like a challenge!
As above for the filter, leaves so much room. Don't buy a relocation kit though, buy some welding earth wire (35mm2), a battery box and some terminals, it'll be half the price.
(20-07-2017, 05:21 PM)Jonny-Derv-Beast Wrote: Hi welshpug!
The exhaust isn't that loud to be honest, the backbox seems to be doing its job well!
It's certainly liveable with anyway, or is there a more technical reason for getting one?
(18-08-2017, 06:18 AM)Poodle Wrote: Making great progress with this. Sounds like the previous owner was a bit of a liability lol, good job you like a challenge!
As above for the filter, leaves so much room. Don't buy a relocation kit though, buy some welding earth wire (35mm2), a battery box and some terminals, it'll be half the price.
Haha! Thanks mate! Every time I go to do something on it, another thing rears it's ugly head!
I like the idea of relocating the battery, my lack of electrical experience makes me slightly apprehensive though.
I've had a look at some posts on here from people who've done it but i'm none the wiser.
Any chance you can give me some pointers and a bit more detail about how to go about it please?
It's quite straight forward mate. Get y'sen a good sturdy battery box and bolt it down in the boot, reinforce if necessary as you don't want it going airborne in a crash. Buy some thick welding cable, roughly measure out and add maybe 1/1.5m on it because all those twists and turns soon use it up.
Route the cable through the car making sure it's not going to chafe on anything. Purchase a box which you can terminate the cable in, I think they are called a shunt box, this is where you can connect to the original cable without the danger of shorting it.
Now stick your battery in the new box, secure it down. Remove the original box from under the bonnet making any brackets required to hold the ECU etc..... secure the shunt box and connect the original positive/new cable inside it. Connect the earth to a point on the chassis. Now from your left over cable make an earth lead and attach it to a good point close to the new battery location. Connect the earth up, connect the positive and away you go
Fitting some sort of fuse or breaker close to the battery on the positive might be wise too. Hope that helps a bit.
