Ok so after searching around and looking here is a handy guide with how to and pictures of what to cut and where to install a nice little dashcam 5volt power supply above the interior light.
not the most complicated guide or project but still a very useful addition if you have a dashcam and don't want to be running wires around the car or up from the cigarette socket.
Benefits of this: 99% of dashcams are now charged via USB cable, some have mini, some have micro etc and doing it this way allows you to use any normal usb cable, so if you change your camera, or piece of equipment it takes 2 seconds to change the cable to fit your new camera.
What you will need:
T20 torx bit of some description (i used an allen key style one which was fine),
credit card/store card etc or fingernails to remove lights
USB charger from the Dashcam, with USB socket intact. the longer type are slightly better for this as they usually have the contacts for + and - on wires rather than integrated into the circuit board
appropriate rating of radio fuse (mine is 1amp)
Soldering iron, solder, Solder pump (makes life easier)
Electrical connectors (bullet, spade, crimp or similar)
Electrical tape and shrink wrap
Small USB cable
optionally, a drill bit for the LED if you plan on using one.
Creation of the power supply
The dashcam i had came with a small USB type power supply with a female USB connector to plug a cord into. Furthermore it was the longer type shown below. Essentially i did three things.
Note: i was lucky with this one as the cigarette lighter connections were connected via short lengths of black and red wire. If yours are not connected via coloured wire indicating +ve and -ve then the one that is connected to the pin at the end of the lighter plug (silver bit on the top picture) will be 12volt live or positive, and the ones connected to the springs that touch the side of the socket will be ground/earth.
1. Removed the electrical circuit board and wires from the plug housing itself, mine was easy to do by unscrewing the end and pulling the two halves apart.
2. I unsoldered the LED making a note of which way round it went (my circuit board had +ve and -ve marked on it making it a little easier) and resoldered it to a small length of wire allowing me to mount it where i wanted.
3. Soldered wire extensions and a fuse (on the positive side) to the positive and negative terminals on the circuit board.
IMPORTANT: This was then fully insulated with electrical tape to ensure it didn't short out on anything metallic in the car (sure you don't need a picture of that) and also the fuse secured to ensure it didn't pull off
Installation of the Power supply in the car
Step 1: Using your finger nail or credit card to remove both of the interior lights and unplug them, put them somewhere safe as they are not needed for this.
For reference, the brown plug (red and green wires) is for the map-light, and the black plug (white, green, yellow and red wires) is for the main interior light.
Step 2: Remove the plastic surround by undoing the two Torx screws underneath the main interior light. This allows a little more access to the wires a little later/ Pull it down from the side nearest the mirror gently, and it will slide out of the back.
If you have A/C or auto climate control the sensor for this is secured via 2 small screws to this surround, once you have removed it you can unplug the orange plug seen in the top right of the picture.
Step 3: If required, drill a small hole for the indicator LED from your charger if it has one.
NOTE: mine came with a little dim LED indicator light, however the belkin one i have in my other USB charger could happily second as a headlight on the car its that bright. IF this is the case i wiould suggest putting the LED in the interior light or leaving it up in the headlining so it doesn't distract you when you are driving
Step 4: this is easier if you choose the map light as the wires are a little more accessible but you can use either of the wires.
Cut the GREEN and RED wires (without power or keys in the ignition or you will blow a fuse)
RED is ignition live, GREEN is ground/earth
Connect the POSITIVE side of your circuit (red side on mine) to the RED wire
Connect the NEGATIVE side of your circuit (black side on mine) to the GREEN wire
I used Butt connectors to do this
Pic to follow
Step 5: Looking from the back of the car towards the mirror you will see the front of the headlining, feed your USB Cable through this and it will pop out by the mirror, plug it into the power source and reassemble the lot in reverse order
step 6: you should be left with a nice neat light surround, with freshly integrated USB power supply and indicator light (if you have one)
The result: a USB socket power supply that comes on when the ignition is turned on, and provides 5v@0.5amp, fused to a USB device such as a dashcam that is hidden and interchangeable with any device you want.
not the most complicated guide or project but still a very useful addition if you have a dashcam and don't want to be running wires around the car or up from the cigarette socket.
Benefits of this: 99% of dashcams are now charged via USB cable, some have mini, some have micro etc and doing it this way allows you to use any normal usb cable, so if you change your camera, or piece of equipment it takes 2 seconds to change the cable to fit your new camera.
What you will need:
T20 torx bit of some description (i used an allen key style one which was fine),
credit card/store card etc or fingernails to remove lights
USB charger from the Dashcam, with USB socket intact. the longer type are slightly better for this as they usually have the contacts for + and - on wires rather than integrated into the circuit board
appropriate rating of radio fuse (mine is 1amp)
Soldering iron, solder, Solder pump (makes life easier)
Electrical connectors (bullet, spade, crimp or similar)
Electrical tape and shrink wrap
Small USB cable
optionally, a drill bit for the LED if you plan on using one.
Creation of the power supply
The dashcam i had came with a small USB type power supply with a female USB connector to plug a cord into. Furthermore it was the longer type shown below. Essentially i did three things.
Note: i was lucky with this one as the cigarette lighter connections were connected via short lengths of black and red wire. If yours are not connected via coloured wire indicating +ve and -ve then the one that is connected to the pin at the end of the lighter plug (silver bit on the top picture) will be 12volt live or positive, and the ones connected to the springs that touch the side of the socket will be ground/earth.
1. Removed the electrical circuit board and wires from the plug housing itself, mine was easy to do by unscrewing the end and pulling the two halves apart.
2. I unsoldered the LED making a note of which way round it went (my circuit board had +ve and -ve marked on it making it a little easier) and resoldered it to a small length of wire allowing me to mount it where i wanted.
3. Soldered wire extensions and a fuse (on the positive side) to the positive and negative terminals on the circuit board.
IMPORTANT: This was then fully insulated with electrical tape to ensure it didn't short out on anything metallic in the car (sure you don't need a picture of that) and also the fuse secured to ensure it didn't pull off
Installation of the Power supply in the car
Step 1: Using your finger nail or credit card to remove both of the interior lights and unplug them, put them somewhere safe as they are not needed for this.
For reference, the brown plug (red and green wires) is for the map-light, and the black plug (white, green, yellow and red wires) is for the main interior light.
Step 2: Remove the plastic surround by undoing the two Torx screws underneath the main interior light. This allows a little more access to the wires a little later/ Pull it down from the side nearest the mirror gently, and it will slide out of the back.
If you have A/C or auto climate control the sensor for this is secured via 2 small screws to this surround, once you have removed it you can unplug the orange plug seen in the top right of the picture.
Step 3: If required, drill a small hole for the indicator LED from your charger if it has one.
NOTE: mine came with a little dim LED indicator light, however the belkin one i have in my other USB charger could happily second as a headlight on the car its that bright. IF this is the case i wiould suggest putting the LED in the interior light or leaving it up in the headlining so it doesn't distract you when you are driving
Step 4: this is easier if you choose the map light as the wires are a little more accessible but you can use either of the wires.
Cut the GREEN and RED wires (without power or keys in the ignition or you will blow a fuse)
RED is ignition live, GREEN is ground/earth
Connect the POSITIVE side of your circuit (red side on mine) to the RED wire
Connect the NEGATIVE side of your circuit (black side on mine) to the GREEN wire
I used Butt connectors to do this
Pic to follow
Step 5: Looking from the back of the car towards the mirror you will see the front of the headlining, feed your USB Cable through this and it will pop out by the mirror, plug it into the power source and reassemble the lot in reverse order
step 6: you should be left with a nice neat light surround, with freshly integrated USB power supply and indicator light (if you have one)
The result: a USB socket power supply that comes on when the ignition is turned on, and provides 5v@0.5amp, fused to a USB device such as a dashcam that is hidden and interchangeable with any device you want.
Given the choice between Niall and the sheep. I would choose the sheep!
/Toseland
/Toseland
