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11-10-2014, 11:43 AM
Well as usual the Haynes book of lies has made it seem lots easier than it is...
I'm trying to push the auxiliary belt tensioner forward and lock it in place so I can remove the belt. The problem is that I can't see the damn holes when I've moved it forward... On top of that the bolt is starting to round because I can only get mole grips on it.. Can anyone please simplify this for me? Also the Haynes Manual says I need a 4mm bolt to get through the lock off holes but I've tried a 4mm Alan Key and that doesn't fit. Will a 3mm be okay?
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11-10-2014, 12:08 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-10-2014, 12:09 PM by Toms306.)
I've never managed to get enough access to lock the tensioner with the engine in the car so just push and hold it while removing/replacing the belt.
I tend to use a longer spanner linked to a 15mm spanner to get better leverage.
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I'm replacing the crankshaft pulley after I've removed the belt so I won't be able to do that. The lack of space is ridiculous!
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Yeah you can do that, just let the tension off the tensioner, change the pulley then push the tensioner again to refit the belt.
I'll be surprised if you can lock the tensioner tbh!
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How far back will the tensioner go? I'm concerned about letting it off and then not having the space to push it back again :/
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I've done it several times, it doesn't go miles back, but I cant remember exactly how far.
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Not going to risk it, not sure I'll be able to get the crankshaft pulley bolt off now anyway and/or put it all back together. Garage has said between £15 and £30 anyway so I'll get that done on Thursday instead. Cheers anyway bud.
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No worries.
That's probably best tbh, unless you have an impact gun or a scaffold bar theres not much chance of getting the crank pulley bolt out!
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Glad we didn't get any further then! Been in situations where I've fixed a problem but been unable to put the car back together before, not good...
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It's a lot easier if you get someone to go in through the wheel arch to lock it off while you hold the tensioner back. It does push round quite a way, far enough that you either need really strong thumbs or have to link up a spanner, as Tom has said.
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Definitely easier with a friend. You can pull the tensioner back quite far but it becomes a pain to hold it back there. ive never had to lock mine off.
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I did mine yesterday.
15mm spanner on the auto tensioner with a spanner hooked over the end to give more leverage.
Used a 3mm Allen key to pin the tensioner back.
You may have to undo the top engine mount to lower the engine a tad
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if you make the holding tool like the manual says, and use a sspanner with an extension ( or make one for the purpose ) its a doddle, with the wheel and plastics removed.......