Bosch conversion problems

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Bosch conversion problems
#1
Hi all,

I've just swapped my Lucas pump for a Bosch but when I got it running the idle was awful and it was making a hell of a noise / smoking a lot.

What I've done so far:

Checked timing - fine
Adjusted fuel pump position - no difference
Checked stop solenoid - clicks when ignition is on
Replaced all of the leak off pipes

After using the primer bulb a few times I noticed it didn't stay firm for very long so I loosened the unions and cranked the engine to see if fuel was getting through - only one pipe had anything coming out of it and it was mostly air! (How did it run like this??) I've checked all of the pipe work and replaced every clip but still no difference - the bulb goes soft within 30 seconds but seems to fill the filter housing / pump.

I've also re-seated the fuel filter / housing, tried a different primer bulb, loosened the return banjo (fuel comes out after a bit of air) After pumping the primer I sometimes hear air from somewhere close to the pump but I can't pinpoint where.

Huh
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#2
it normally or the primer bulb not to stay solid.

did you use the pump mounting braket that ame with the pump ? the lucas and bosch pumps use the same bracket but the studs are in different positions.

did you use new copper seals (ive never not issues using old news tho).

Was the pump unknown to be in good working condition
306 XUD9 gt2052s
306 hdi stage 2 (hdi tuning)
205 STDT -new project
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#3
Yeah I swapped the bracket and replaced the seals - the pump was off a running car which had been off the road for a while and I've stored the pump off the car for a couple of months, although it had diesel in it.
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#4
I'd put money on timing - what are you using to check the timing??

Just some random bolts from the pot catching on the threads doesn't mean it's truly in time - they need to go in DEAD straight and true with no effort, I've seen it SO many times where people are putting in bolts, it looks straight from the top, but you can't see the jaunty angle because of stuff in the way.

Only other thing it sounds like it could be is a non-working vane pump - how long has the pump been sat? Was it working straight before it came off the donor vehicle?
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#5
I'm gonna put money on a mish mash of lucas lines being used here Wink
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#6
Turned out to be the pump, put the Lucas back on and it was running within a few minutes. Is it difficult to free up the vane pump? Never taken one of these apart.
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#7
If you have never had one in bits before I would get someone else to do it should be some members near you that could have a look for you
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#8
How do you know it was the pump? Did you move the locating studs/injector lines over?
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#9
As no matter how much I turned the engine / bled the system only one injector line produced any fuel. I got the Bosch with the bracket, lines and injectors and 100% didn't mix any of it up Smile
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#10
Hmmm, as you've got 1 popping, theres really not much that can possibly go wrong as you're building the pressure. Sounds like either delivery valves, but unlikely that it'd stop one popping, or air in the system.

Thats not a vane pump issue btw, if it was vane pump then it would be all injectors, or none. Im not saying that the vane pump wont be shagged, but thats nothing to do with why you have 3 poppers down and 1 fine.

Assuming you're priming the pump properly with diesel.
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#11
Vane pump.

Trust me.
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#12
Thanks for the replies, I've got another pump now - a known working one this time Smile but when I got it home realised the max fuel / boost had been adjusted and there was more travel in the accelerator arm than the faulty pump.

I've reduced the max fuel / boost and put the arm back a spline so it is closer to standard settings.

The engine still jumps to 2k revs as soon as it's started along with a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust. I reduced the cold idle speed but it didn't seem to make any difference.

Any ideas what else could cause the engine to rev so high at idle?
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#13
Max fuel would make it idle too high. Start it then turn it down untill it lowers itself
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#14
I've adjusted the max fuel out so that it only just has enough fuel to start but it still revs up to around the same figure - when I reduce it more it doesn't start.

I've just reduced the max fuel whilst it was running, the idle started getting back to where it should be but then cut out.
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#15
(09-08-2014, 02:44 PM)mikes Wrote: Thanks for the replies, I've got another pump now - a known working one this time Smile but when I got it home realised the max fuel / boost had been adjusted and there was more travel in the accelerator arm than the faulty pump.

I've reduced the max fuel / boost and put the arm back a spline so it is closer to standard settings.

The engine still jumps to 2k revs as soon as it's started along with a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust. I reduced the cold idle speed but it didn't seem to make any difference.

Any ideas what else could cause the engine to rev so high at idle?


that DEFINATELY sounds like a timing issue.. advance at idle will increase revs,
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#16
You must not have the pump setup correctly, or your throttle cable is still under tension. Timing wont cause a higher idle.
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#17
Took the top off the pump and found the accelerator arm was way off - running well now Smile
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