How big is too big?

[Matt]

Looking at fmic, and I want to get something massive just because I can. Would it over cool? What size is really needed? Looking at about 150bhp

[Curt]

I didn't really know what to expect in here

Although you used the right section this time

No such thing as "over cool" really, just a case of fitting it in and there may be more lag...

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A small one would be fine for that power

[Dum-Dum]

You cant over cool but you will add lagg, that stupid one i had on my first HDi (IIRC the same as darren runs on his beast) added about 400rpm of lagg.

That is as big as you can go without SERIOUS work it was big enough it touched both headlights soo anything more would need new lights, new bumper etc. It weighed 12kg and was a 600mm x 300mm x 76mm core, overall was almost 800mm long and with 3" inlet and outlet.

[ginge191]

I've got a spare FMIC if you wana buy it

[Grant]

Thread title is very misleading. I expected worse from you matt :p

[Matt]

Misleading thread title ftw, helps me because we are all a bunch if pervs and can't resist looking.

I've found one in eBay, it's in ryde so just the other side of the island. It's from a skyline, and looks huge. But it's cheap as and the only one for sale on eBay on the island ill get a link

271233677389 stick that in ebay

[1616six]

Matt look in my threads at my parts one. Got the huge twin pass from paddys old 5dr if you want it!

[con67]

Looking at fmic, and I want to get something massive just because I can. Would it over cool? What size is really needed? Looking at about 150bhp

170 odds is fine on standard tmic

[Dum-Dum]

Looking at fmic, and I want to get something massive just because I can. Would it over cool? What size is really needed? Looking at about 150bhp

170 odds is fine on standard tmic

I'd disagree with that point. IMO on any sort of warm ish day even on a light tune the FMIC gets HOT, never measured it but like probably 60-70*C. On a FMIC after a blast the cooler is often actually cooler than the ambient temperature. Lets put it like this, one of the days I tested it it was 16*C on the car thermometer and 12*C on the cold side of the FMIC. Were talking a 50*C difference there between TMIC and FMIC and if you believe the theory that every 10* drop in temp gives a 1% increase in power then on a 170bhp car your talking about the best part of a 10bhp difference

[darrenjlobb]

Mine is semi for sale if theres any interest .

[Matt]

Damn don't tempt me!

[puglove]

just buy my set up matt its perfect i'll do you a good price on it x

[bigcheez2k3]

Looking at fmic, and I want to get something massive just because I can. Would it over cool? What size is really needed? Looking at about 150bhp

170 odds is fine on standard tmic

I'd disagree with that point. IMO on any sort of warm ish day even on a light tune the FMIC gets HOT, never measured it but like probably 60-70*C. On a FMIC after a blast the cooler is often actually cooler than the ambient temperature. Lets put it like this, one of the days I tested it it was 16*C on the car thermometer and 12*C on the cold side of the FMIC. Were talking a 50*C difference there between TMIC and FMIC and if you believe the theory that every 10* drop in temp gives a 1% increase in power then on a 170bhp car your talking about the best part of a 10bhp difference

Pretty much this. Might be fine when moving but as soon as you sit at a set of lights, there is no airflow and it's useless until you get moving again.

[Coc-ker]

170 odds is fine on standard tmic

I'd disagree with that point. IMO on any sort of warm ish day even on a light tune the FMIC gets HOT, never measured it but like probably 60-70*C. On a FMIC after a blast the cooler is often actually cooler than the ambient temperature. Lets put it like this, one of the days I tested it it was 16*C on the car thermometer and 12*C on the cold side of the FMIC. Were talking a 50*C difference there between TMIC and FMIC and if you believe the theory that every 10* drop in temp gives a 1% increase in power then on a 170bhp car your talking about the best part of a 10bhp difference

Pretty much this. Might be fine when moving but as soon as you sit at a set of lights, there is no airflow and it's useless until you get moving again.

When do you need boost when stationary at traffic lights?

Tbh this topic has been done to death. You will always get better throttle response from a top mount and you will always have better charge temps with a front mount (ish). I'd only consider going front mount when charge temps are ridiculous and the figures it's making are miles off what it should.

To put it into perspective Newage Impreza top mounts are capable of 400BHP easy.

Tim.

[Jimbo]

The 306 airflow is poor to the top mount
Fmic made a big improvement to mine.
26psi on a top mount would probably make less power than 22psi on a fmic due to the efficency of a front mount

[con67]

I run 30psi/170bhp on a tmic, was fine and no smoke on boost, even after some dyno runs on a rare sunny day it dropped only 5-6bhp.

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Looking at fmic, and I want to get something massive just because I can. Would it over cool? What size is really needed? Looking at about 150bhp

170 odds is fine on standard tmic

I'd disagree with that point. IMO on any sort of warm ish day even on a light tune the FMIC gets HOT, never measured it but like probably 60-70*C. On a FMIC after a blast the cooler is often actually cooler than the ambient temperature. Lets put it like this, one of the days I tested it it was 16*C on the car thermometer and 12*C on the cold side of the FMIC. Were talking a 50*C difference there between TMIC and FMIC and if you believe the theory that every 10* drop in temp gives a 1% increase in power then on a 170bhp car your talking about the best part of a 10bhp difference

I did and your right! Didnt really affect power that much, mates had fmics on similar setups and power difference on dyno was around 10bhp, but out the road it was no massive difference for the amount work and money imo.

[kernow_joe]

I used to run 30 psi and at a guess around 170+ bhp on a tmic and was fine

[bigcheez2k3]

I'd disagree with that point. IMO on any sort of warm ish day even on a light tune the FMIC gets HOT, never measured it but like probably 60-70*C. On a FMIC after a blast the cooler is often actually cooler than the ambient temperature. Lets put it like this, one of the days I tested it it was 16*C on the car thermometer and 12*C on the cold side of the FMIC. Were talking a 50*C difference there between TMIC and FMIC and if you believe the theory that every 10* drop in temp gives a 1% increase in power then on a 170bhp car your talking about the best part of a 10bhp difference

Pretty much this. Might be fine when moving but as soon as you sit at a set of lights, there is no airflow and it's useless until you get moving again.

When do you need boost when stationary at traffic lights?

Tbh this topic has been done to death. You will always get better throttle response from a top mount and you will always have better charge temps with a front mount (ish). I'd only consider going front mount when charge temps are ridiculous and the figures it's making are miles off what it should.

To put it into perspective Newage Impreza top mounts are capable of 400BHP easy.

Tim.

When did I say you needed boost while stationary?

When you pull away, lets says at the lights near a slip road, or on a NSL road and you feel like flooring it, if your TMIC has heatsoak it's useless.

I run 30psi/170bhp on a tmic, was fine and no smoke on boost, even after some dyno runs on a rare sunny day it dropped only 5-6bhp.

---

170 odds is fine on standard tmic

I'd disagree with that point. IMO on any sort of warm ish day even on a light tune the FMIC gets HOT, never measured it but like probably 60-70*C. On a FMIC after a blast the cooler is often actually cooler than the ambient temperature. Lets put it like this, one of the days I tested it it was 16*C on the car thermometer and 12*C on the cold side of the FMIC. Were talking a 50*C difference there between TMIC and FMIC and if you believe the theory that every 10* drop in temp gives a 1% increase in power then on a 170bhp car your talking about the best part of a 10bhp difference

I did and your right! Didnt really affect power that much, mates had fmics on similar setups and power difference on dyno was around 10bhp, but out the road it was no massive difference for the amount work and money imo.

It's not just about power though, from what I understand, colder charge temps decrease exhaust temps too which is better for your turbo.. Sure I've heard that on here somewhere.

[Dum-Dum]

When do you need boost when stationary at traffic lights?

Tbh this topic has been done to death. You will always get better throttle response from a top mount and you will always have better charge temps with a front mount (ish). I'd only consider going front mount when charge temps are ridiculous and the figures it's making are miles off what it should.

To put it into perspective Newage Impreza top mounts are capable of 400BHP easy.

You don't, but you might want your TMIC not to be hear soaked if you nail it off said lights or putting your foot down shortly afterwards or even just pootling around on a hot day as warm air is bad for your fuel economy. You can bet if it makes 5% more power through colder air you'd be getting a 5% better fuel economy.

The thing is a FMIC on a 306 is an easy and cheap job so if its worth a couple of bhp, a tiny bit better fuel economy and longer engine/turbo/oil life then its no bad thing.

The impreza is a whole different beast. They are a larger and more efficiently designed TMIC, they have a much better cold air feed and they don't sit 5 inches above the turbo and exhaust manifold.

I'd disagree with that point. IMO on any sort of warm ish day even on a light tune the FMIC gets HOT, never measured it but like probably 60-70*C. On a FMIC after a blast the cooler is often actually cooler than the ambient temperature. Lets put it like this, one of the days I tested it it was 16*C on the car thermometer and 12*C on the cold side of the FMIC. Were talking a 50*C difference there between TMIC and FMIC and if you believe the theory that every 10* drop in temp gives a 1% increase in power then on a 170bhp car your talking about the best part of a 10bhp difference

I did and your right! Didnt really affect power that much, mates had fmics on similar setups and power difference on dyno was around 10bhp, but out the road it was no massive difference for the amount work and money imo.

Nice to see that my point is valid, I suppose it makes a slightly bigger difference on the dyno because of dyno heatsoak but i cant see it making no difference on the road.

[Danny2009]

I ran near 180 through my top mount. It was fine but nail it through a gear or 2 and it got heat soak and engine temp rose a little

Unless your running a bigger 'bine I would stick with the top mount

[darrenjlobb]

Tbh if anything the bigger turbo reduces the need for better intercooling.

That said, I disagree that the TMIC is fine for 180hp, you WILL NOT make 180hp of useable power with a TMIC< you will simply make 180hp peak, if you dyno a 180hp TMIC XUD on a dyno, and do 4 runs, it will get less and less each time, even more so if its already red hot when coming on, it feels fast on the road, but if you drove it hard / on a track, you would instantly realise that your getting CHRONIC heatsoak / loosing ALOT of the peak power due to the intercooler being red hot / not coping!

[Mal]

How about one from a Daily pick-up? Fills the bottom part of my bumper* nicely, relatively thick and cheap as chips.....

*Disclaimer: It's not a 306....

[Matt]

Please tell me it's bolted like that??

[Dum-Dum]

Thats the cooler im using, they are a good size, well about 10mm too wide but hammers fix this.