now a member or team shitting conrod! :(

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now a member or team shitting conrod! :(
#31
(06-05-2013, 12:57 PM)306Puggy Wrote:
(06-05-2013, 11:48 AM)Ruan Wrote: Guaranteed you did the damage with the TD04 on... Finally it's given up with the K14...

Interesting analysis Ruan. As we know, the TD04 facilitiates high revs, would you say this was as a result of revving the engine higher than a K14 would allow? Or increased cylinder pressures? But the cylinder pressures wouldn't be as high, since you don't have to run a TD04 at as high boost to generate decent power. Unless the owner got greedy and pushed the engine too far.

Both, and a combination of those and metal fatigue. There's a reason they didn't come out of the factory with 150bhp.
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#32
(06-05-2013, 12:58 PM)Toms306 Wrote:
(06-05-2013, 12:55 PM)bigcheez2k3 Wrote:
(06-05-2013, 12:50 PM)puglove Wrote: is that it??

Depends how you look at it, sometimes it's not worth spending more than the car is worth. Depends on how you feel about it.

This. If the car isn't worth much more than the fixing cost then theres very little point (unless you are intimately involved and couldn't part with the car, and have more money than you know what to do with). Imagine if you'd spent £500 on the car, then a week later something catastrophic happens....maybe engine failure or its crashed or whatever....you'd never get that £500 back. Much better (imo) to cut you're losses before that happens, sell/break the car for £500 and move on. Sure it's a gamble, sometimes it is better the devil you know and the car may be fine after it......but if not.... Confused

So what? If you treat life like a never ending game of investment and return on investment you are gonna end up dying having never done anything really worth doing. Okay for some people they would rather save the money and go on holiday with their family which is fair enough and certainly worth doing but for a car enthusiast who enjoys playing with cars then why not! I must have spend thousands on my car over the 4 years I've had it but the main expenditure came when I crashed it which I probably spend £600 on repairing. All the rest of stuff has just been in pursuit of gaining mechanical experience so I'm alright with that.

(06-05-2013, 01:02 PM)Rippthrough Wrote:
(06-05-2013, 12:57 PM)306Puggy Wrote:
(06-05-2013, 11:48 AM)Ruan Wrote: Guaranteed you did the damage with the TD04 on... Finally it's given up with the K14...

Interesting analysis Ruan. As we know, the TD04 facilitiates high revs, would you say this was as a result of revving the engine higher than a K14 would allow? Or increased cylinder pressures? But the cylinder pressures wouldn't be as high, since you don't have to run a TD04 at as high boost to generate decent power. Unless the owner got greedy and pushed the engine too far.

Both, and a combination of those and metal fatigue. There's a reason they didn't come out of the factory with 150bhp.

Interesting. I was more probing at the fact that Ruan thinks that the damage was done on the TD04 instead of the K14 though. And Phillip, not everyone can be an engineering genius so we laymen have to ask these types of annoying questions Big Grin
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#33
Don't get me wrong, there's definitely a fault in the forging process of these engines I'd say... Tge amount I've seen tthat are stock and have come out with bent rods... It's luck of the draw I'm afraid...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#34
Hate to say it but its becoming quite obvious that xud's only shit rods when on idle or very low rpm :/
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#35
Solution: Keep revs above 2k at all times Big Grin
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#36
   
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#37
Chris didn't push the tdo4 barely from what I remember. He did However give it some serious abuse while having the HDI to kill it
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#38
(06-05-2013, 01:47 PM)306Puggy Wrote: Solution: Keep revs above 2k at all times Big Grin

I was thinking more like 4k but ok that will o
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#39
(06-05-2013, 01:27 PM)the milkman Wrote: Hate to say it but its becoming quite obvious that xud's only shit rods when on idle or very low rpm :/

Low oil pressure/flow there will soon show up any bearing issues/out of round bottom end caps , doesn't mean the damage isn't caused elsewhere first though.
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#40
(06-05-2013, 01:47 PM)306Puggy Wrote: Solution: Keep revs above 2k at all times Big Grin

lol

(06-05-2013, 01:54 PM)Jenkosowls Wrote: Chris didn't push the tdo4 barely from what I remember. He did However give it some serious abuse while having the HDI to kill it

I did take it to 6,000rpm about 2 or 3 times but didnt sit at at, tbh engine just carryed on as normal, maybe that killed the rod and its just been waiting till now, And only went to 25psi on the td04 never went over 5k with that tho as was to scared of blowing it up at the time.

As said it does seem they all trow rods at hardly any load but i was at 70mph so 2,750rpm?? but no throttle was on as i was going down hill....

ANYWAY NEW CAR

106 1.5d 3 owners from new (all same family) 65,500miles exerlent condtion f/s/h tax aug, mot dec. But its a phase 1 not a fan tbh but can tell its been look after alot! Must have some potential looking at xsi arch's if i dont win them maybe some rally arches turn it in to a rally rep.

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Lucus pump Sad
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So reto style not a great colour but i needed a car and quick this is what i got



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#41

*your. Undecided
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#42
Shame mate but like you say least you didn't pay out for the wheels ect don't mess about getting a replacement I'm breaking a 106 nad ph1 if you need owt electric windows ect
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#43
(06-05-2013, 12:51 PM)Chris_90 Wrote:
(06-05-2013, 12:45 PM)Birk Wrote: Buy cheap, buy twice.

Not always true known people spend £££££'s and still have issues, no matter what car you buy you will have issues eventually

I agree with birk 100%. Every cheap car I own has been shit. Soon as I pay more than id like the car is much better. Only thing that Let's mine down is a dint that dent master will sort x
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#44
Pretty ignorant view TBH, you've just got to know what you are looking for. But hey, it's your money Wink
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#45
Phase 1 306 is kinda win Smile always been sorta tempted to get myself a phase 1 gti to use as a track day car
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#46
(06-05-2013, 07:58 PM)306Puggy Wrote: Pretty ignorant view TBH, you've just got to know what you are looking for. But hey, it's your money Wink

Yes agreed. But getting your self a diesel thats 170k and highly tuning it. It isnt going to last too long without shitting something
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#47
(06-05-2013, 08:16 PM)kentiiboii Wrote:
(06-05-2013, 07:58 PM)306Puggy Wrote: Pretty ignorant view TBH, you've just got to know what you are looking for. But hey, it's your money Wink

Yes agreed. But getting your self a diesel thats 170k and highly tuning it. It isnt going to last too long without shitting something

I'm not having that one bit! As long as your not a redneck that abuses a car every day and can do simple maintaining work and look after it a car will be bomb proof
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#48
Mileage doesn't cause the problem, it's the weak conrods that let go.
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#49
Pretty sure metal fatigue occurs due to time and forces acting on the metal.....so yes, older, higher mileage ones will be more prone to failing......
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#50
Not saying there never gonna go but taking care of an engine prevents this for a long time as you've seen afew xud's over 220k+ that haven't shit compared to 100-150k engine shit them self. I.E my phase 1 was 118k and shit on idle from abuse before I had it
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#51
(06-05-2013, 08:24 PM)the milkman Wrote:
(06-05-2013, 08:16 PM)kentiiboii Wrote:
(06-05-2013, 07:58 PM)306Puggy Wrote: Pretty ignorant view TBH, you've just got to know what you are looking for. But hey, it's your money Wink

Yes agreed. But getting your self a diesel thats 170k and highly tuning it. It isnt going to last too long without shitting something

I'm not having that one bit! As long as your not a redneck that abuses a car every day and can do simple maintaining work and look after it a car will be bomb proof

Yes it's got to be looked after. But if you buy one that has zero history its more prone to go than one with history.
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#52
History also only tells you it's had oil changes and probably a belt at some point.....it doesn't tell you that a previous owner lived on the redline from cold everyday.....

Cars really are a luck of the drawer (or is it draw in that context?) anyway, service history means sod all, even checking the outside of the car won't tell you what the engine condition is like so its always a gamble....one which I tend to lose on.

Age, milage, history, engine, car, manufacturer...its all irrelevant really....................its all an educated guess......
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#53
(06-05-2013, 09:04 PM)kentiiboii Wrote:
(06-05-2013, 08:24 PM)the milkman Wrote:
(06-05-2013, 08:16 PM)kentiiboii Wrote: Yes agreed. But getting your self a diesel thats 170k and highly tuning it. It isnt going to last too long without shitting something

I'm not having that one bit! As long as your not a redneck that abuses a car every day and can do simple maintaining work and look after it a car will be bomb proof

Yes it's got to be looked after. But if you buy one that has zero history its more prone to go than one with history.

D turbo had near full history not that meny owners for such an old car still let go.... I'm not fussed tbh I could have caused it not gonna do the engine any favors 25psi on a td04, then 6,000rpm, this Car was never a great looker but no matter what it always used to put a smile on my face when I drove it! That's all that mattered to me that's why the hdi went as it was boaring.... That's my opion any way. Sad to see it go nearly 6 month I owned it must be a record for me Wink



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#54
(06-05-2013, 09:04 PM)kentiiboii Wrote: Yes it's got to be looked after. But if you buy one that has zero history its more prone to go than one with history.

Thank you! Ive always said this. Id rather buy a car on 100k with FSH and a previous owner who clearly took care of it rather than the same car on 20k that doesnt have a single bit of history with it and a previous owner who clearly thought "its low mileage, maintenance isnt needed!"
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#55
It's rarely oil failure... Its always fatigue of conrods... Some engines will be fine, others will shit them... It's just luck.

Some engines can be the most pampered pristine engines, yet they let go.. Others can sit on the redline all day, from cold, never have an oil change... Yet go forever... Its purely bad forging, tuning will bring any weakness to light, understandably...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#56
(06-05-2013, 09:25 PM)Ruan Wrote: It's rarely oil failure... Its always fatigue of conrods... Some engines will be fine, others will shit them... It's just luck.

Some engines can be the most pampered pristine engines, yet they let go.. Others can sit on the redline all day, from cold, never have an oil change... Yet go forever... Its purely bad forging, tuning will bring any weakness to light, understandably...

Well that's reassuring then..... Confused

Just as I was gonna buy an XUD too.
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#57
(06-05-2013, 08:29 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Pretty sure metal fatigue occurs due to time and forces acting on the metal.....so yes, older, higher mileage ones will be more prone to failing......

Steel doesn't fatigue unless you load it over half it's ultimate strength. Which is why you can get away with making big power on standard internals, because they can cope with over double stock power.

The important bit though, is how long they can cope with more power.
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#58
(06-05-2013, 09:23 PM)Niall Wrote:
(06-05-2013, 09:04 PM)kentiiboii Wrote: Yes it's got to be looked after. But if you buy one that has zero history its more prone to go than one with history.

Thank you! Ive always said this. Id rather buy a car on 100k with FSH and a previous owner who clearly took care of it rather than the same car on 20k that doesnt have a single bit of history with it and a previous owner who clearly thought "its low mileage, maintenance isnt needed!"

But it's not just a fsh I look for. I dont buy a car without it. But a genuin owners is always sealed the deal. Ring up ask about a car they have for sale dont name the car your looking at straight away tells if they a dealer or not. Then ask about the car. The way they anwser is a good sign if they tell you about tiny nigglies that dont matter then they're genuine. Cars with Lots of paper work as well as fsh mean they're cared enough to keep everything. Also never buy of young lads always go for old men as they do look after there cars.

My hdi was 103k fsh a box of paper work in date order. All at the only garage I trust because that was the only one they trust. 1 owner passed from husband to wife as she said it was that Good to her.

My mrs corsa 1.2 in red. Old couple owned from new every bit of work at same garage serviced every 7k miles for a petrol excissive but was what they did each year. They said bonnet had fade on it but they had thw whole car polished my pros to bring it back to normal yet every red corsa had faded like mad. Also when we picked it up his mrs come to say good bye as she loved it.

Also check reasons for selling. If they upgraded to the new version of the car is always a good sign
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#59
(06-05-2013, 01:27 PM)the milkman Wrote: Hate to say it but its becoming quite obvious that xud's only shit rods when on idle or very low rpm :/

Mine went at about 4500
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#60
This thread scares me :/
Doesnt even own a 306.
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