Big power reliability?

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Big power reliability?
#1
lately ive seen a lot of xuds poping up with 150/160bhp+ how are you finding reliability?

ive seen a few spit rods and blow head gaskets with a lot less than that i just cant imagine they would be reliable with that kind of power would like big power but in the past ive had trouble with heating and turbo failure running just 125bhp.
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#2
most engine problems are caused by people running too much boost without appropriate reinforcements.
headgasket problems are mostly caused by not bleeding the coolant properly or running so much boost that the heads lifting.
i would highly reccommend anything upwards of 28 psi you should be using arp headstuds to prevent lift.

revving too high with too much boost is the other big killer as the connecting rods simply cant deal with the strain of trying to squash 25+ psi worth of air and fuel at 5k+ rpm.

other than that the xud can take an amazing amount of abuse aslong as you warm it up properly and regular oil changes Smile
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#3
(29-01-2013, 06:57 AM)ozonehostile Wrote: most engine problems are caused by people running too much boost without appropriate reinforcements.
headgasket problems are mostly caused by not bleeding the coolant properly or running so much boost that the heads lifting.
i would highly reccommend anything upwards of 28 psi you should be using arp headstuds to prevent lift.

revving too high with too much boost is the other big killer as the connecting rods simply cant deal with the strain of trying to squash 25+ psi worth of air and fuel at 5k+ rpm.

other than that the xud can take an amazing amount of abuse aslong as you warm it up properly and regular oil changes Smile


I see I see wasn't aware if the guys running big power had done engine work thought they were all on standard engines.

I'm sure it would be pretty hard to drive tamely with big power I know the boost kick from a relatively standard dturbo is addictive I can only imangine what big power would be like Wink
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#4
As said really. People forget your squeezing 60 to 70% out of engines that are designed for econemy. Look after them and you should be fine.


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#5
Aye, keeping them well serviced, and driving them like a normal car daily helps, when you have 150 or 160 bhp you don't need to use it all the time

my 1st dturbo, 11mm pump n 28psi n tht engine lasted well over year n a half, only calfed when the rad burst after it was hit, turbo was just about gone though, was in need of one shortly if the engine was still going
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#6
(29-01-2013, 09:52 AM)rickye Wrote: Aye, keeping them well serviced, and driving them like a normal car daily helps, when you have 150 or 160 bhp you don't need to use it all the time

my 1st dturbo, 11mm pump n 28psi n tht engine lasted well over year n a half, only calfed when the rad burst after it was hit, turbo was just about gone though, was in need of one shortly if the engine was still going


Yeah the majority drive them like they stole them maybe that's why they don't last my donar engine has 120k on it so wreckon it has a good few miles left in it yet.


Were you still on standard turbo at 28 psi?
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#7
150-160 bhp on standard internals seems fine, its once you start pushing for the 170 plus that you might want to start thinking about stronger internals and better cooling.
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#8
(29-01-2013, 10:43 AM)ozonehostile Wrote: 150-160 bhp on standard internals seems fine, its once you start pushing for the 170 plus that you might want to start thinking about stronger internals and better cooling.

What kind of clutch do you boys with big power run I'm sure 150 is probly the standard clutches limit.
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#9
(29-01-2013, 10:46 AM)jpderv Wrote: What kind of clutch do you boys with big power run I'm sure 150 is probly the standard clutches limit.

a genuine valeo clutch is good for upto 175-80bhp before it starts slipping/

unsprung paddle clutches for anything higher than that
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#10
I've not seen any 150-160 bhp XUD's going pop recently?

Also its not big power. Big power for an cud has to be 180+?
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#11
Aye was on a standard k14 at 28 psi, I did like pushing it to the limits aswell, but was only opened up on weekends, was drove easy to work n back like

160 nb on stock internals, but stock turbo won't see that

Plus the 11mm pump helps alot
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#12
Rods dont go at high rpm... i would of thought the air is and out the combustion chamber that quick they wouldnt notice, i was always under the impression that they go about 3000rpm when your turbos cramming f*ck loads of air down there but the roads are still moving relatively slowly (compared to 5k) to squeeze it all up? I could do with someone confirming that mind haha
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#13
Low rpm is more likely to bend a rod which will subsequently break.
There is a lot of force behind a piston at high rpm so if there's too much pressure that force has nowhere to go except out the bottom of the block.
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#14
I don't know anyone who has lost a rod at high rpm, normally 2-3k rpm.
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#15
Maybe its just me then? I threw a rod at 4.5k in a previos 306.
But tbh, that could have been down too damage as a result from running really low on oil.....
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#16
Spitting rods out seems to be related to running stupid boost and big advance. Keep it sedate with an efficient blower and stock advance and you should be ok. Although, there is no such thing as a fully reliable 'big' turbod xud running a standard block.
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Dturbo GT2259s build thread;
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#17
Head gaskets and rods go on standard engines.

JP ran his standard engine at over 200bhp for over a year with no issues untill he broke the car for spares
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#18
It was detuned to around 180ish. He was also running stock advance
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Dturbo GT2259s build thread;
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#19
But as he even pointed out, he ran it once at 200hp on the dyno and the rest he ran it at much less...

They're reasonably reliable... The problem is that most people can't resist cranking that extra 1/4 of a turn, that extra 2lbs of boost, finding they have an extra 10hp, but the EGTs are sky high, the boost has gone up, so has the backpressure... The coolant starts getting very hot, very quickly etc, cylinder pressures are rising at an exponential rate, the head gasket will go under those conditions... The rods don't like it either... Sadly you can NEVER put a figure on French conrods, they blew on 90hp 100% original engines cruising...

People attribute failures to one time and place, but mostly the damage is caused over many miles, often hundreds of miles ago the real damage was done, but after another 200 miles of fatigue and stress, they finally give in whilst cruising down the M5...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#20
My engine is running around 150bhp (I had it alot higher before but the insurance is too high) It's perfectly drivable and has been on 24psi on a T2 for about 9months then 25-30psi on a K04 turbo for about 7months. I do treat it well though, always warm her up, always let it run for a few seconds before turning off, never allow it to get hot, never rag for any long lengths of time (couldn't even if I could as it just eats the road up anyway Wink )
But I'm expecting it to blow, it's french, the engines done over 170,000 miles and is well above stock power levels but I do try to look after it. What do you expect from a modified stock internal engine really...
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#21
(29-01-2013, 06:52 PM)strictly_derv Wrote: My engine is running around 150bhp (I had it alot higher before but the insurance is too high) It's perfectly drivable and has been on 24psi on a T2 for about 9months then 25-30psi on a K04 turbo for about 7months. I do treat it well though, always warm her up, always let it run for a few seconds before turning off, never allow it to get hot, never rag for any long lengths of time (couldn't even if I could as it just eats the road up anyway Wink )
But I'm expecting it to blow, it's french, the engines done over 170,000 miles and is well above stock power levels but I do try to look after it. What do you expect from a modified stock internal engine really...

you must treat that thing with kid gloves lol thats insane reliability i guess regular services and being aloud to warm up is the key to reliability then


(29-01-2013, 11:12 AM)rickye Wrote: Aye was on a standard k14 at 28 psi, I did like pushing it to the limits aswell, but was only opened up on weekends, was drove easy to work n back like

160 nb on stock internals, but stock turbo won't see that

Plus the 11mm pump helps alot

how long did the k14 last at that psi?
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#22
I was running 22psi on a GT20V making about 175hp regularly for over 20k miles, the engine is still going today albeit with a slightly different turbo...

I also had an XUD9 running 30+psi on a K14 which never technically died, it blew the head gasket at 150k which isn't unreasonable, it wasn't even a bad blow, just ended up pressurising the coolant a shitload with a bit of mayo and lost compression on middle cylinders...

Long as you treat the engine well, don't let it overheat and run GOOD oil in it, they're darned reliable IMO anyway...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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#23
Mine averaged 175bhp on the rollers (Td04), 11mm pump.
I did the big turbo at the tail end of 2011 and its still going well at 188k miles.
Its not driven hard much and its probably around 160bhp now cos ive limited boost and put the original air inlet pipes back on (severely chokes the turbo).
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#24
Just a quick FYI Anto, those pipes won't be doing the turbo any good, they absolutely ra*e the thrust bearing due to the vacuum placed on the compressor wheel, even though they reduce the power, the turbo will be getting a pasting due to them!
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#25
On subject of bigger power, what would a HC1 on a 9mm put out or is it too big to spool?
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#26
OK. Mine has done 24k in 2 years in MY ownership
All at pretty much 28-30psi
T2 turbo, 11mm, gov shimmed like mad, decent exhaust
Serviced at around a few hundred, 8k then 18k miles into my ownership (yeah I know its not as often as it should)
And so far touch wood.....
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#27
Lol, that's past STOCK service intervals, yours should be done MAX every 4 or 5k....

Stock is 6k, these engines wash their oil with diesel so fast its crazy, after 8k if you smell the oil it'll STINK of raw diesel...

The whole idea you can use crappy Total Quartz and change it at stock intervals with an engine running almost 160% stock power is rediculous, they need high quality Ester Synthetic oils with good detergents... Ill bet you if you had a GTi6 running 250hp you wouldn't be putting in shiity semi synthetics and leaving it 15k miles... And they don't dilute their oil, nor do they pulverise it due to the high cylinder pressures...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#28
i used kinda middle of range oil, but serviced every 4-5k, the k14 never died, engine died cos she was hit when my mate had her a week, n drove on abit, no coolant didnt do her any favors

as ruan says, i was late on a service and you could smell the diesel in the oil, knew they diluted the oil abit, didnt think that quickly but
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#29
The reason everyone says "ooooh look, my oil level never drops" is mostly because it's quickly replaced with raw diesel....
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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#30
What oil would you recommend then, Ruan?

Also, not sure if it's been said, but you won't lift a head on a standard turbo...
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