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Nope. Part numbers are the same for all XU/XUD engines.
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What about DW10 engines?
306oc Chat Wrote:15:30: Toms306 - :Genuinely thought it was gonna explode when I was playing with Sam
22:57: SRowell - :wtf why didnt you try harder to make me come!
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Tbh didnt look at dw10! Does the dw10 use the 1 big and 2 small linkages?
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From what I can remember, yes
306oc Chat Wrote:15:30: Toms306 - :Genuinely thought it was gonna explode when I was playing with Sam
22:57: SRowell - :wtf why didnt you try harder to make me come!
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I had a quick play with my Rods today
It's much much better and I actually really like it now! It's still a bit weird that 1st and 2nd sort of curve round bit this might be able to be gotten rid of with a bit more adjustment.
If you fit one of these and you have baker bm linkages, return them to standard length (ends half way down thread)
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is the shaft solid or hollow?
BBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSSSSSSSSTTTT!!!!!!!!
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Joe Wrote:is the shaft solid or hollow?
Solid mate
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the standard lengths for the gear linkages are in the Haynes i think....
Good luck getting it sorted
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would a silicone sealant suffice instead of a super glue?
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Should do. Or tiger seal!
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I also have tiger seal if you want it ginge. Add it to the to-do list lol
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Niall Wrote:Should do. Or tiger seal!
This is what i was thinking.
Just seal the top 'lock-lug' ??
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Fitted my quickshift last night, Feels awesome! Takes a little getting used to though
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Couple of pointers:
As mentioned, with Group N linkages (Miles' or BBM's) you find the gears at either end of the gearstick (1st, 2nd, 5th, 6th, reverse) curve round slightly. This is because the extended movement of the selector rod under the car causes interference with other parts and fouling. Solution I found was to fit a GE quickshift as the design gives more clearance at the gearbox end, or as Niall did you can adjust linkage lengths.
Also refit the lower half of the rubber boot to the base of the quick shift or you'll end up with vibrations and road noise coming into the cabin. The top half doesn't fit without modification.
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great info just done mine today easyer gettign a junior hack saw and cuttign the plastic ball off with a few drill holes lol but everything else went ok
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ive already got one but Im going to have a look at it and see what ive actually got. Its a bitch to get into 1st and after doing a few runs at pugfest it was really annoying me having to constantly ram it in there! Also its currently knocking on my exhaust pipe and getting hot. Mid lap at Pugfest the ball decided to pop out of the holder D:
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04-07-2012, 10:18 AM
(This post was last modified: 04-07-2012, 10:19 AM by Just Sean.)
I fitted this kit in mine <<CLICK ME>>
seems to give me less problems than what the other one does!
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06-03-2013, 10:13 AM
(This post was last modified: 06-03-2013, 10:14 AM by ginge191.)
Niall; got my quickshift from home the other week, but somehow may have mysteriously lost/misplaced/ate the loccating nuts which accompany the quickshift kit.
Do you know of an alternative/replacement for these?? You got a contact number for whoever made these?
cheers babe x
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Bit of a late reply! Do you mean the little grub screws? If so, I lost one of mine and just used a m6 (i think) bolt.
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(09-03-2013, 04:37 PM)Niall Wrote: Bit of a late reply! Do you mean the little grub screws? If so, I lost one of mine and just used a m6 (i think) bolt.
No the actual guiding, gold part that goes above and underneath the qui shift..
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Oh. I don't know then. Try chatting with ed. he arranged the group buy
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Ill dig my brand new one out of the shed tomorow ginge and measure a bolt for ya!!
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(09-03-2013, 05:33 PM)Niall Wrote: Oh. I don't know then. Try chatting with ed. he arranged the group buy
Do you know the size of the bolts that are needed to bolt the quick shift down?
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M8, probably 25mm long will do
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[attachment=23359]
Anyone got any ideas how I can get this of without damaging it?
I need it for my lift reverse, or can I just use a cable tie to hold it in place?
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