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(25-02-2018, 03:50 PM)Piggy Wrote: New injectors in.
Everything is back together. Gearbox seals/oil in today. All the splash guards etc.
It coughed and spluttered. But not quite fired to idle.
Battery just not up to it after so many months sat out in the cold.
So steady charge overnight and we'll see what happens...
Charge it at 16 Amps because everything has to be done in 16's now.
A moments silence please, for our brothers in the NAD-zone.
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Back on the road again. Had some wiring repair on glowies which made starting at -6° a little easier.
Need an FPR. Idle is rubbish.
Radiator has temps under 'control' but they are still waaaaay too high too easily. EGTs also. Need time to investigate
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Yes!
Nice one Piggy.
It fought you pretty hard so must feel like an achievement to finally be driving it.
I Don't Have A 306.
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Good stuff!
When my glowplugs went I just fitted a larger capacity battery. Came in handy when it got to -10 here. I don't think my neighbours appreciated it though. Indirect is never easy to start without the ol glowies.
A moments silence please, for our brothers in the NAD-zone.
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(08-03-2018, 09:37 AM)Danny Wideboy Wrote: Yes!
Nice one Piggy.
It fought you pretty hard so must feel like an achievement to finally be driving it.
Not really. It's a bit crappy at the moment. Either the bottom end is goosed or I've done something wrong or the R70/FPR is goosed. ...I duno.
Really not feeling any love for it currently.
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09-03-2018, 02:04 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-03-2018, 02:07 PM by mr_fish.)
Haven't looked back too far, but have you driven it and got a couple of heat cycles on the motor?
Idle still rubbish (as you put it) when warm? or just from cold? mine is bad when started until it get 10psi down its neck. but no glowplugs. -6 is the limit I reckon of starting the thing without them.
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Shitter. Hope it works out.
Plan B.
1. Fit XUD11.
2. Win at life and every race ever.
3. ???
4. Profit.
I Don't Have A 306.
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(09-03-2018, 02:04 PM)mr_fish Wrote: Haven't looked back too far, but have you driven it and got a couple of heat cycles on the motor?
Idle still rubbish (as you put it) when warm? or just from cold? mine is bad when started until it get 10psi down its neck. but no glowplugs. -6 is the limit I reckon of starting the thing without them.
When warm idle can be like a cammed N/A perv or 1400pm! Lol
Driven it a bit... Still lots of temp issues so grannying it around.
It blue smokes quite badly until it sees load/boost on the road.
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(11-03-2018, 07:25 AM)Piggy Wrote: (09-03-2018, 02:04 PM)mr_fish Wrote: Haven't looked back too far, but have you driven it and got a couple of heat cycles on the motor?
Idle still rubbish (as you put it) when warm? or just from cold? mine is bad when started until it get 10psi down its neck. but no glowplugs. -6 is the limit I reckon of starting the thing without them.
When warm idle can be like a cammed N/A perv or 1400pm! Lol
Driven it a bit... Still lots of temp issues so grannying it around.
It blue smokes quite badly until it sees load/boost on the road.
Could it be a dodgy temperature sensor? That would cause worrying temp readings and possibly bad idle?
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We considered that today...
But it seems it is reading fairly accurately... Going by when the stat opens and closes
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how is the ecu grounded? as thay ground throught the case and its held on with a plastic cabel tie. mite be worth bolting up a ground and
seeing what happends
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(17-03-2018, 12:10 AM)madmadmax Wrote: how is the ecu grounded? as thay ground throught the case and its held on with a plastic cabel tie. mite be worth bolting up a ground and
seeing what happends
The ecu is insulated from the case iirc. Earthed via the loom.
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(17-03-2018, 12:10 AM)madmadmax Wrote: how is the ecu grounded? as thay ground throught the case and its held on with a plastic cabel tie. mite be worth bolting up a ground and
seeing what happends
No it does not, go look at a wiring diagram.
The case is connected to ground for shielding only and considering the half that has the bolts through is held apart by a thick layer of sealant...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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03-04-2018, 07:40 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-04-2018, 07:41 PM by Piggy.)
New (refurbished) HP pump. New FPR. Rebuilt injectors. HEPU water pump. Unplumbed the turbo.
Still not drivable due to temp issues.
Close to giving up
Also fitted spangly rebuilt beam and rebuilt calipers, new brakes etc ...hoping to give me some ray of accomplishment ...
Till I dropped it to the floor 6 hours later and wheels rub inner arches.
I hate cars.
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04-04-2018, 08:26 AM
(This post was last modified: 04-04-2018, 08:28 AM by Dave.)
(03-04-2018, 07:40 PM)Piggy Wrote: New (refurbished) HP pump. New FPR. Rebuilt injectors. HEPU water pump. Unplumbed the turbo.
Still not drivable due to temp issues.
Close to giving up
Also fitted spangly rebuilt beam and rebuilt calipers, new brakes etc ...hoping to give me some ray of accomplishment ...
Till I dropped it to the floor 6 hours later and wheels rub inner arches.
I hate cars.
dont you f*cking dare
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Hey Piggy, I think most people on here will get your frustration. We've all been there with projects (both car-related & other) where we wondered why we started it n torching it seemed like a good option.
You've shown many times that you have some spannering skills. This is far from a standard build though so was never going to be straightforward. You clearly want something different from the norm. Don't give up!
I wish I knew about diesels n could help you think it through . You seem to have considered the fuelling side n the water pump. Probably a stupid question but any chance the HG is restricting coolant flow to the head somewhere?
(03-04-2018, 07:40 PM)Piggy Wrote:
Till I dropped it to the floor 6 hours later and wheels rub inner arches.
I assume this must be the wheels rather than the beam itself?
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Humm, just looked back thro your thread n the galleries on the 8v block n 16v head look close to identical so my question above does seem pretty stupid. If you used silicone gasket anywhere tho I guess it's still possible some excess has come adrift n blocked a gallery. Could you use a laser thermometer to find hot spots on the head?
First tho, is the gauge definitely not at fault?
Btw, I'll freely admit to throwing ideas out with little real experience. I've never rebuilt an engine!! Am just hoping to get a discussion going that may genuinely help you out.
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04-04-2018, 12:09 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-04-2018, 12:28 PM by Piggy.)
[quote pid='621241' dateline='1522830398']
dont you f*cking dare
[/quote]
Mate. That means more than you know right now. Thankyou.
(04-04-2018, 10:53 AM)Mighty306 Wrote: Humm, just looked back thro your thread n the galleries on the 8v block n 16v head look close to identical so my question above does seem pretty stupid. If you used silicone gasket anywhere tho I guess it's still possible some excess has come adrift n blocked a gallery. Could you use a laser thermometer to find hot spots on the head?
First tho, is the gauge definitely not at fault?
Btw, I'll freely admit to throwing ideas out with little real experience. I've never rebuilt an engine!! Am just hoping to get a discussion going that may genuinely help you out.
No, any ideas appreciated at this stage.
I've ordered 4 Ktype temp probes/gauges and will fit them around the system and then monitor to try and pin point the issue. Yeah, galleries are a match. Regarding silicone... It would be odd for it to happen on two different heads/rebuilds. Plus I've done about half a dozen flushes.
Gauge and sensor have tested out fine.
Wheels didn't rub before... But only myself to blame as I built the beam.
Nice picture. Shame it's just that...for now anyway
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Mmm, curious about the beam. Would be next to impossible for the bearings to be mis-aligned. Different camber on the swing arms as didn't they come off another beam?
Yep, that is indeed a nice pic. Shiny beam, epic 'zorst, and ingenious use of spare wheel hanger!! It's all very 'minimalist' compared to the usual tangle of brake pipes & cables etc
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04-04-2018, 05:49 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-04-2018, 05:55 PM by JTaylor2005.)
Wish I could help with knowledge but it sounds like you've tried all sorts! :/
Could it be something as daft as the 16v head being a bugger to bleed the air out of or something like that? When does it get hot? After driving aggressively or just normal driving etc?
Does the 16v block have piston cooling jets? If that one does and the 8v doesn't for example that might make the cylinder temps much higher than they would normally be?
Is there anything daft going on like the orientation of the engine being tilted more than what a normal 16v is causing an air lock at a new "high point" of the water galleries?
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It bleeds really easy tbh. Angle of the dangle isn't a factor I ebelieve as Darren has run both without issue. 8v block has jets. It gets hot instantly if you plant your foot.
It get hot eventually if you drive it steady
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Ok.
Things MIGHT be looking good...
Need to raise ride height. Need to fit shrouding for radiator. One injector leaking some Derv.
Goes along nicely when you ask for boosterness.
Needs brake upgrade desperately... Awaiting custom brackets. .. . .
Rear brakes "bedded" in;
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(23-04-2018, 10:50 PM)Piggy Wrote: Ok.
Things MIGHT be looking good...
Need to raise ride height. Need to fit shrouding for radiator. One injector leaking some Derv.
Goes along nicely when you ask for boosterness.
Needs brake upgrade desperately... Awaiting custom brackets. .. . .
Rear brakes "bedded" in;
been doing some rapid stops?
some blueing there. often seen on m/c exhaust headers.
It goes, it stops (as reqd).
Hate Housework!
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Yeah... Quite a bit.. plus fronts are not up to it .. so ABS system is obviously compensating by using rears a lot
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Yep, those brakes got nice n warm!!
I assume you managed to sort the issues with the rear beam & the wheel rubbing on the inner arch btw? It's really, really good news that you're now getting to the bottom of the issues with the cooling Piggy. Would be great to see it some time.
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Yeah, sort of sorted them.
Bit rubbing still but it's too low... So will be raising the rear 20mm or so this weekend, which will on obviously help.
Get that, brakes and some niggles sorted and I might enjoy driving out t for the first time
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So brakes still awful. Which is hampering "play" a bit... Also, more compact twin pass was ordered...arrived as a single pass. And they had sold mine. So had to reorder from different company. . . .
So the big one is back on for now.
Once the right one arrives, will get fitted along with some cooling/air flow shrowds.
Trying to love it a bit to feel the love.. so to speak...
So sorted the odd handbrake, turned out a new cable was 15mm too long. Sorted with replacement.
Refitted some interior trim.
Replaced the broken fuel flap.
Next is find a decent stereo...
Sort front brakes...
Raise rear end.
Then, add more boost of course.
Also kept the Racetractor keyset, so will be fitting that at some point and fixing the CL and passenger door window motor.
Then hopefully with those niggles gone, I can go do some driving and learn to enjoy it.
In other related news... Had big grin when I overtook a hesitant middle aged balding driver... In his brand new Ferrari 488 Spider, balding friend sat next to him...
Was hilarious. And mad fun.
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In other related news... Had big grin when I overtook a hesitant middle aged balding driver... In his brand new Ferrari 488 Spider, balding friend sat next to him...
bloody Sunday drivers!
It goes, it stops (as reqd).
Hate Housework!
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Raised the rear a bit...
Maybe too much?...
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