Guide: Clutch Change - 1.8 16v (Others similar)

[Toms306]

A Clutch change is one of the largest jobs to undertake on most vehicles. It's not particularly difficult, but requires the removal of so many components that it can get confusing.

So as I couldn't find a guide on here, I've made this one. This is a 1.8 16v engine in a phase 3, others are similar. The main difference with the XUD and GTi6 compared to the others are the clutch type, they use a pull type clutch, rather than the conventional push type clutch shown in this guide.

So firstly gather tools required for the job, these will include:

• Socket set, including deep and impact
  
• Jacking and support equipment
  
• Stud remover
  
• Clutch aligner
  
• Pry bar
  
• Hammer
  
• Chisel
  
• 35/36mm impact socket for hubnuts
  
• Impact gun
  
• Penetrating fluid (Plusgas/WD40)
  
• Torque wrench
  
• There are other tools you may need, but this list should cover most things
  

Also gather the parts you will need for the job:

• Clutch Kit (Valeo is OEM and my chosen kit) - Around £65 from ECP with discount
  
• Gear oil - Part 9730 AA - Around £16 from Peugeot
  

Optional parts-

• Clutch cable - Around £22 from ECP or £50 from Peugeot
  
• Clutch fork bushes - Parts 2175 54 and 2175 55 - Around £5 the pair from peugeot
  
• Driveshaft oil seals - Parts 3121 46 and 1608 8167 80 - Around £25 the pair from Peugeot
  
• Gearbox mount
  
• Gear linkages
  
• Nyloc nuts for ball joint pinch bolts
  

So hopefully you should now have the tools ready, and the parts will look something like this...



And a 306 that looks something like this...




So time to start.

Remove battery, ECU, and battery box.





Remove airbox.





Remove air intake piping and bracket for better access.



Next remove the lower battery tray. Just the 4 bolts, no need to remove the airbox bracket separately.





Now to access the starter on the 1.8 I removed the throttle body, this isn't necessary on other models.





These are the starter motor bolts, remove them next.



Pull the starter motor out and rest it somewhere secure away from the gearbox, no need to remove completely.



Remove the reverse light switch plug and unclip its wire.



Remove the wiring from this bracket on the front of the 'box, and then the bracket itself - 11mm bolts.



Unclip and remove the wires from this plate. Then remove the plate itself with the 2 13mm nuts, not forgetting the 17mm nut securing it to the top gearbox stud (pic later). Note, on the HDi this is where the coolant heater is located, and you would need to undo and/or remove that.

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Now clear the wiring from the area - there are 2 earth bolts to the left of that plate, and I removed the rest of the wiring for better access - this isn't totally necessary, but will get in the way later otherwise. In the same area are the gear linkages, also remove these, but I didn't take a picture of this.

Fuel inertia cutoff switch



Lambda plug



2 13mm earth point (can see the yellow/green wire in this pic but nuts are not easy to see)



Speedo drive plug



Crank sensor (You can either unplug this and leave it in the gearbox, or remove it completely with the 10mm bolt)



Also remove the coilpack plug and the suppressor attached to it.

At this point the left side of the wiring is completely free, so secure it out of the way, I used a bungee cord.



Remove the clutch cable - squeeze the tabs on the square block and lift it away from the 'box. This gives enough slack to remove the cable from the arm, simply pull the bung towards the front of the car and slip the cable through the gap in the arm.




That's the 'top' stuff complete. So now jack and support the car safely. There is a guide on this if you're unsure.



Now the vehicle is raised, remove the wheels. If you don't have an impact gun remember to loosen the bolts while the car is on the ground.



Drain the gearbox oil, using an 8mm square section. Dispose of used oil correctly.



Now remove the hub nuts, first the R clip and cover needs to be removed.



Gun the hub nuts off - if you have an impact gun, you'll need to find another way of doing this, get a mate to hold the brakes on, or if you have centre-capped wheels, undo this nut while still on the ground.



Next remove the pinch bolt that secures the bottom ball joint to the hub. It is a 17mm bolt and a 16mm nut.



Now lever the ball joint away from the hub. I used a chisel in the slit to open it up, and a pry bar to pop the ball joint out.



At this point the short driveshaft isn't held in by anything else, so push it out of the hub, and then just pull it from the gearbox. Check the condition of the shaft as you don't want to go through this again if a shaft fails in a weeks time!



On the long driveshaft, you need to undo (but not completely remove) the 2 11mm nuts that hold the L shaped intermediate bearing clamps in place. When they are about 5mm from the end of the threads, they should push away from you and turn 180 degrees to free the bearing. Then knock the bearing through with a hammer and blunt chisel, try not to damage the bearing or shaft.



And shaft removed



Also remove the speedo drive, I didn't at first and it made getting the 'box back in later extremely difficult.



While you're under there, its a good time to remove the flywheel cover plate, this is just 3 10mm bolts, one also holds a PAS bracket.

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Now I suggest loosening the gearbox to block bolts slightly, as if you try to 'crack' them off later on it could more difficult.

There are 4 bolts, 3 accessible from the top (2 16mm, 1 17mm) and one accessible from underneath, by the speedo drive (hex 7 iirc).









At this point support the engine, I've used an axle stand, but another jack could be useful for movement. Also get a trolley jack under the gearbox and just take the weight, don't raise it at all.



Remove the gearbox mount bracket. The top nut is an 18mm and is pretty tight. Then there are two 13mm bolts securing the mount bracket to the chassis. You can also remove the mount if you're replacing it, if not no need to.



Once that's removed the gearbox should be well supported by the jack.



The stud needs to be removed for clearance - its tight so I suggest a stud extractor.



Now have a final check to make sure there is nothing in the way of the 'box and that it is secure on the jack. Once you are happy with that. Fully remove the gearbox to block bolts. Pull the 'box away from the engine on the jack. Then lower it down. You may need to manoeuvre it around the subframe etc. Place the 'box out of the way.

The clutch cover is now visible!



On the 1.8 it is secured with 13mm bolts, these are Torx on other models though. Slacken and remove these diagonally.



If your clutch cover is old like mine it's probably rusted to its locating dowels and needs some persuasion to remove! Remove this and the clutch centre plate. Take care not to breath the clutch dust and to clean the area well.



This is the 'old vs new' on the centre plates. By far not the worst I've seen but quite worn as you can see.



Now, with the Valeo kit they give you a clutch aligner. With another kit you will need to buy or make something to align the centre plate. It will stop the gearbox splines fitting if not properly aligned. When it is aligned, torque the bolts. They aren't very tight, just 25Nm for 1.8 and larger engine models.



Over half way now!

Next I replaced some items around the 'box. Not totally necessary but might as well as you've got it off. The driveshaft seals stop leaks and the arm bushes should make for a lighter, smoother clutch.

Oil seals -

Carefully pry out the old seals with a flat blade of small pry bar, taking care not to damage the metal around them.



And fit the new seal. I was advised to apply a small amount of grease to the outside and then tap them in squarely using a flat piece of wood and a hammer.



And the same again for the other side.

Clutch fork bushes -

First remove the release bearing, it just slides into and out of place with the arm pushing it forward as far as possible. Some types clip on instead of sliding.

You need to remove the arm for the bushes. The pin is a push fit in the fork pole. You can use a 10mm bolt and spacer to pull this out...or you can round them off with mole grips like I did! Oops. So I knocked it from behind with a chisel and used mole grips to pull it when it was mostly out. Keep or replace the pin, up to you.



Lift the arm from the fork pole. Then turn the fork away from the input shaft so it can be pulled up and out of the bottom bush. Use a hammer to knock the bottom bush from underneath, it should come out fairly easily. Then the fork pole can be lowered through the bush hole and removed. Remove the top bush with a hammer again, upwards.

And to replace, just gently tap the top bush in place.



Put the fork pole back through it and lift it up to fit the bottom bush in the same way. Drop it back into place, position the fork over the input shaft and refit the arm and pin. Just tap the pin back into place, but not too far.



At this point I fitted the new release bearing. As above, with the fork pointed forwards it slides into position. Others may simply clip in. Lubricate the input shaft cover that the bearing slides on with copper grease. Failure to do this can cause a stiff clutch which we're trying to avoid. Don't over grease as you don't want grease to contaminate the clutch plates

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While the gearbox is out I changed the clutch cable at the same time. This is fairly easy on the 1.8, but the turbo on the diesels gets in the way, as does the large manifold on the GTi6.

The clutch cable is attached to the pedal with a plastic clip. Remove this and tie some string around it for ease of refitting later. I removed the fusebox cover and air duct for access but it possible without.



Now outside. If you have air con, for access you need the AC pipes to be movable. Removing this bracket gives enough access.



It is secured with a 10mm nut in the wheel arch.



Now they are moveable, you need to bend the pipes towards the engine to allow the clutch cable bulkhead bung to move past them. Its on the right, just under the brake servo. When you have access, keep pulling it and it will come.



Once this has been removed, unclip the cable adjuster from the subframe, and as its already removed from the gearbox, the cable should be completely free now.

Cut the string from the pedal clip, and tie this around your new cable's clip to aid fitting. Push the clip up under the servo, and pull the string to get it into the cabin. Its a small hole so takes some fiddling! Once its in, fit it over the pedal, and leave the pedal in its normal position, pushing it at this stage could let the clip fall off. Then push the bung if the new cable into its bulkhead seat and make sure its seated correctly.

Then clip the adjuster to the subframe and leave the other end for refitting the gearbox.



So now the clutch and cable is fitted, its time to refit the gearbox. As Haynes says, refitting is the reverse of removal. Making sure to torque bolts where necessary, not catching any wiring anywhere etc. Check the clutch operation before putting everything back together. Don't forget to refill the gearbox once the shafts are back in. And when you've finished, run the engine, take it for a test drive and check for any gearbox oil leaks.

I haven't completely finished putting everything back yet, so if there are any pictures you think I need to add let me know and I'll get them tomorrow while refitting the last few things.

[kentiiboii]

Great guide tom! But could explain where to drain gearbox oil from before you start :-)

[Toms306]

Yeah that could be useful I guess. Will alter it tomorrow. Will also some torque settings and bolt sizes...and sort the spelling mistakes lol!

[Curt]

Nice guide Tom

[kentiiboii]

I was really getting into it and I don't even own a 1.8

[C.A.R.]

Sweet guide Tom. A clutch change is an intimidating job - I couldn't have done mine without Simons help last year. When re-torquing my clutch torx bolts one started to round...why didn't they use hex-head bolts on all models?!! Hopefully mine will never need to come off again!

[Tom]

Awesome guide mate, really thorough, lots of pics, wicked!

[Toms306]

Cheers guys.

Trying to update a few things but due to the post merger and the pic limit I can't save an edit....any way around this?

[tigerstyle]

Can't you get a spanner on the flat edges sat the bottom of the gearbox stud?
And does it really need to come out? Or it is just making things easier?

[Toms306]

You'd need a big spanner to get enough force on it....but limited space stops that happening, had to use a long breaker bar and extension even with the extractor as it's thread-locked in from the factory. I've got a huge adjustable that would've been ideal but just not enough room to use it.

And yeah it does need to come out, it hits the chassis leg otherwise.

[Toms306]

Please can admin replace the OP with this updated guide:

================================================


SRowell has the new guide. Please get it off him.

[ADV_93]

Great guide mate! Cheers!

Gear linkages can sometimes be a bitch on these!

[mangler]

Can we update photos plz.. Thanks!

[Toms306]

Can we update photos plz.. Thanks!

No, sorry. Photobucket has really ruined forum guides!

[wainwrightj]

Can we update photos plz.. Thanks!

If you're using Chrome install the following extension and you'll be able to see Photobucket images

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detai...aedg?hl=en

Also works in Opera and Firefox, you'll just have to install them from the corresponding extension marketplaces

[mangler]

Can we update photos plz.. Thanks!

If you're using Chrome install the following extension and you'll be able to see Photobucket images

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detai...aedg?hl=en

Also works in Opera and Firefox, you'll just have to install them from the corresponding extension marketplaces

thanks

[Magenta Sunset]

my currnet laptop is admin locked for the photoucket fix