16-01-2017, 12:13 AM
Anyone know the rod bolt number for a set of ARPs for the DW10?
Given the choice between Niall and the sheep. I would choose the sheep!
/Toseland
/Toseland
ARP conrod bolts
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16-01-2017, 12:13 AM
Anyone know the rod bolt number for a set of ARPs for the DW10?
Given the choice between Niall and the sheep. I would choose the sheep!
/Toseland
16-01-2017, 07:09 AM
Check my project thread/piggypower facebook or instagram.
I put up a nice shot of one fitted...think it shows the part number... Does for the "forged" rods anyway, so assuming they the same Wishes for more power...
16-01-2017, 07:28 AM
not convinced they are the same, ones in the forged rods are countersunk iirc and may not be same thread / diameter
16-01-2017, 07:54 AM
(16-01-2017, 07:28 AM)zx_volcane Wrote: not convinced they are the same, ones in the forged rods are countersunk iirc and may not be same thread / diameter Ah ok fair. If you have originals Toseland, measure and search, wont take long to find right ones, ARP have a well documented catelogue on places like summit Wishes for more power...
16-01-2017, 08:50 AM
yeah i have a friend who owns a nissan skyline/GTR and porsche tuning company so should be able to sort me out pretty much
Given the choice between Niall and the sheep. I would choose the sheep!
/Toseland
standard o.e rods use a nut and bolt, XU and XUD are all the same, so would be very easy to find, they do need some mods to a stock rod to fit properly, otherwise the rods can crack and the bolts will lose whatever torque you've set to.
the o.e bolts are very good however, so there's really no need to replace them if they torque up fine. any rod bolt fault will stem from catastrophic bearing and rod failure. aftermarket steel rods tend to have threads tapped in the rod (or cap) oh yeah, I don't recall which bolt they are, but the o.e bolt is M9x1.00, being murrican I think its a 9/16" google is awesome. 117-6101
need a part number? http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/ and http://service.citroen.com/ will sort you out.
Never seen a rod bolt break before conrod does on any DW/XUD engine that hasn't smashed a rod first. Usually find a crank with a perfectly held on big end complete with bearings, just the rod snapped off above it!
Unless you're spinning it significantly faster, I would leave them alone - conrod bolts aren't required to support increased power levels, rather increased engine speeds.
16-01-2017, 12:18 PM
theres plenty of standard rod bolts going to 8k.
need a part number? http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/ and http://service.citroen.com/ will sort you out.
16-01-2017, 12:26 PM
was just going to look to see if it was cost effective as i was going to be pulling the engine to bits anyway i thought i would replace them if they weren't sky high.. , as always the minds on this forum have provided me with an answer
Given the choice between Niall and the sheep. I would choose the sheep!
/Toseland (16-01-2017, 12:18 PM)welshpug Wrote: theres plenty of standard rod bolts going to 8k. Not with the piston/rod assembly weight of a DW/XUD - and is a slightly longer stroke (compared to an XU10 anyway...) to boot, so mean piston speed will be higher for a given RPM. They'll be fine until 5500rpm though and basically you're not going to get any sort of decent power there without a severe nozzle upgrade.
16-01-2017, 08:58 PM
weight certainly is one thing yes, its the same stroke as all the XU9's.
EW12 runs 96mm, though only spins to 6500, they do have a different arrangement where its M9 bolt screws into a tapped rod, same bolt a the DW12 as it happens, and the EW10J4S which goes over 7k on an 88mm stroke. what does a typical DW rod&piston weigh??
need a part number? http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/ and http://service.citroen.com/ will sort you out.
16-01-2017, 09:34 PM
Couldn't tell you off the top of my head - but a significant amount more than that of a XU motor. The crown is massively thick in comparison and it has a very long skirt - to the point where the bottom of it basically kisses the oil squirter - it couldn't be any longer without fouling the squirters. Especially thick on the DW pistons around where the combustion bowl is - to be able to get enough meat to put up with the constant heat cycling.
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