darrenjlobb's Adaptronic Managed Compound Blown Derv Bus Build

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darrenjlobb's Adaptronic Managed Compound Blown Derv Bus Build
Work of art that exhaust.

Are you running packing in that silencer or have you one for the max noise option?
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So is that 3"? Mix of stainless/mild or just the colouring/lighting?

Great update as usual.... Getting an excited feeling towards crank being rotated
Wishes for more power...
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Good effort! I opted out for 2.5" as just couldnt see how to squeeze gear links etc past. Looks so tight but smart as. Well done fella

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Still Living For The 306  Rofl

306 Ph1 Dturbo Estate
205 1.9 GTI (Rust.In.Pieces)
306 HDI Stage 3 Estate (Rust.In.Pieces)
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(01-10-2016, 08:25 PM)ginge191 Wrote: That droopy tip....

OEM+

(02-10-2016, 12:19 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Work of art that exhaust.

Are you running packing in that silencer or have you one for the max noise option?

Have removed all the packing, just there to keep things legal..... Have kept it though incase I did ever want to re fit it (its a strippable box)....cant see that happening though !

(02-10-2016, 12:25 AM)Piggy Wrote: So is that 3"? Mix of stainless/mild or just the colouring/lighting?

Great update as usual.... Getting an excited feeling towards crank being rotated

Its all stainless except the back box... Just looks different because some bits are new and some bits are old....Didn't really want to use that back box but have had it in the workshop brand new for years and never used it, so thought might as well use it on my own pipe.
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Boring update,

Dropped set of new drive shafts in / checked all was well there.

Hooked up high pressure / low pressure side of the electric power steering again (same system as fitted before).

Piped up the heater matrix.

Measured up to try and find a rad to fit giving clearance on right hand side for turbo intake.

That is about all.
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I used one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissens-62055-...43e38609c4. Obviously need to make up a couple of new hoses and mounting points, but otherwise fits well and gives a good 6-8 inches of clearance to the ns chassis leg.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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Boring update....
Maybe seems that way... But without shafts you can't do skidz reet?
Wishes for more power...
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that downpipe is a labour of love given the silly clearance issues you've got down the back of there. Has the cannon got a straight pipe through or is it perforated?
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(03-10-2016, 08:03 AM)zx_volcane Wrote: that downpipe is a labour of love given the silly clearance issues you've got down the back of there. Has the cannon got a straight pipe through or is it perforated?

Its perforated, its one of those boxs you can take in half, and add / remove baffle material....will have to see how she rolls,normally surprising how much win noise a simple perforated pipe in a box quietens things down, which I am not really a fan of! Back section is nice and easily removeable though should there be a need to "liven things up" Smile
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Awesome progress and great to see that thinks are looking the same down there! Would love to come across again at some point mate and catch up like old times!
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first sorry my inglix, im from spain  Nospeak
im making "similar" project, and... why use BIGGER pulley? im going to use smaller. If you use bigger one, you have less rpm on pump!!! thats not good to make more pressure at low rpm. Here on pic you can see bottom pulley 21tooth , pump pulley 42 (2/1). When crack pulley makes 360º, pump pulley makes 180º. (this is using same timming belt)
[Image: a0xrwp.jpg]

Have you calculated correctly pulley size?


And...How you are going to regulate pressure on rail?  i have moddified a small rail  from audi v8 to regulate fuel on rail:[Image: whl3bn.jpg]

I've been here, in a quiet corner, year and a half watching the evolution of your project. amazing project!  ThumbsUp ThumbsUp ThumbsUp
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Darren is driving the hp pump from the aux crank pulley not the timing belt.
need a part number? http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/ and http://service.citroen.com/ will sort you out.
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(12-10-2016, 07:09 PM)welshpug Wrote: Darren is driving the hp pump from the aux crank pulley not the timing belt.

yes, i have seen, but with same 2/1 ratio?
it's important detail.

I have made some tests with cp1 pump ,with blocked regulator (no regulator on pump), and using the rail regulator makes all perfectly. (Using audi regulator)
Darren, how you make fuel regulation with this cp3 pump? What ratio have pump pulley?
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(12-10-2016, 07:24 PM)bixigu Wrote:
(12-10-2016, 07:09 PM)welshpug Wrote: Darren is driving the hp pump from the aux crank pulley not the timing belt.

yes, i have seen, but with same 2/1 ratio?
it's important detail.

I have made some tests with cp1 pump ,with blocked regulator (no regulator on pump), and using the rail regulator makes all perfectly. (Using audi regulator)
Darren, how you make fuel regulation with this cp3 pump? What ratio have pump pulley?



In stock configuration the pump spins at half engine rpm, due to running from a small crank pulley on the cam belt... Increasing its speed with a smaller pulley will increase its output somewhat, although there is a limit to how fast you can spin the pump before you have other problems...

The pump I am using here is a CP3/110......a pump of nearly double the capacity, I have never played with a big pump like this before on a small engine, so am predicting problems regulating pressure at low engine demand, hence the large pulley (although I should point out, pump will still be spinning 1/2 as fast on top of stock due to much larger aux pulley remember!) So I have designed it all around a large pulley...that way, I can simply reduce the size of the pulley if I need to...without having to fabricate a new mount bracket, a new HP line, and have clearance problems with the car... Hopefully all the hard work is done now, and if I need to spin it faster, I can simple machine a pulley....

The CP3 is regulated on the inlet side, not the HP side, hence no reg on the rail, in theory I shouldnt need one, that said,one can be added if I do find I need it, but other stock CP3 / Twin CP3 applications manage just fine with stock regs... It is of much better design, rather than bleeding pumped fuel, to not pump it in the first place...less pumping losses..and less heat transferred from the pump into the fuel, which is only a good thing.

If that makes sence...
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^^^ That is an awesome explanation dude, I've actually learnt something tonight.
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Darren whats on old boy, keen for an update. She be running by Christmas hey? Wink
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Havent got much to update really, quite busy on the farm with drilling corn / lambing / livestock in for winter etc so updates a little slow. Been working on cooling system / fuel system, should have an update later in the week Smile
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(01-11-2016, 08:22 AM)darrenjlobb Wrote: Havent got much to update really, quite busy on the farm with drilling corn / lambing / livestock in for winter etc so updates a little slow. Been working on cooling system / fuel system, should have an update later in the week Smile

Your such a tease.
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Promised an update , so here we go!

Have been working on this in drips and drabs, so its all a bit out of order etc, but will do my best to update on most of the bits I have been working on, which mainly consists of the fuel system, cooling system and air charge system.

Starting with the cooling system, first step was to size up for a rad, was unable to use a stock sized rad this time round as the turbo have moved forwards for better clearance, which meant that the top of the rad / top rad hose would line right up with the intake of the turbo, making it impossible to route any hoses, I also wanted to move my air filter down onto the front clip rather than having it sat up on the chassis leg, mainly for access to clean cold air, but also because it never fitted right up the top, and was always a bit of a bodge!

So after some searching around settled on a rad from a Ford (oh dear!) albeit an aftermarket ally one:

[Image: DSC_1569.JPG]

Also note the new lower rad hose, which after realising I couldn't use the stock rad had to have its connector axed off, but had already ordered it when I realised I couldn't use the stock rad!

Drilled new mounts, and made new rubber centered brackets for the top of the rad, and fitted it to the car, perfect fit for what I was after:

[Image: DSC_1581.JPG]



Then re-mounted the expansion tank, same as I was using on the MTDI, only this time put rivnuts in the holes, so easy to bolt in / out without having to drop wheel / hold little nuts in the wheel arch with one hand etc!

[Image: DSC_1570.JPG]

[Image: DSC_1681.JPG]



Then pretty much proceeded to just plumb it all up, using new hoses all around, will also note everything is in black this time around, guess I must be getting old, but prefer the look of it these days! Used the same external stat housing I made up as before, and air bleeds all as before other than a slight re route etc. Havent put any coolant in it yet, as want to wait until engine is wanting to run before I do, just incase head is breeched at all, don't want cylinder full of water for a few months before I notice!


Moving onto fuel system next,  had a few basic things in my head that I wanted to achieve, firstly was to remove 100% of the factory peugeot fuel system (which I had already done before painting the car). Secondly I wanted to mount the lift pump and filter head under the car so that it was out the way in the engine bay, and easy to get at. 

Basic fuel system in essence is basically a 044 lift pump from the tank, up to a swirl pot in the engine bay, from which the CP3 can feed from.

First step was to get swirl pot mounted up, item I ended up using:

[Image: DSC_1606.JPG]


Original plan was to mount it on the drivers side chassis leg, but sadly just not enough room, looked at dropping a section down, but then had problems with charge pipe clearance, so decided to mount it in front the engine in the end where there was much more room. So just made up two brackets, drilled and tapped them, allowing the swirl pot to bolt straight down to it:

[Image: DSC_1612.JPG]

Will also note the -8 fittings on the swirl pot, As before I am trying to use these style fittings on everything where I can, as find it a much easier and cleaner way to route pipes around the car. 

So next step was to get the  CP3 feed and return adapted to take a -8 fitting, So bought a pair of M14x1.25 > -8 adaptors to fit to the pump, had to make slight mod to one to fit in the recess:

[Image: DSC_1619.JPG]

And fitted:

[Image: DSC_1620.JPG]


Then seems to be a lack of photos of next step, but basically then routed the feed / return hoses from swirl pot to fuel pump, including an inline temp sender on the feed return so I am able to monitor fuel temp in the ECU.

Moving to the back of the car, I wanted to modify the stock fuel pickup to take -8 hoses, and also be much less restrictive, so removed the fuel pickup unit:

[Image: DSC_1622.JPG]

Cut off the standard fittings from both sides, over drilled them to 1/2" and fitted a pair of 90 degree tank fittings with dowtys to seal, even left in water over night to be 100% it was sealed fully, as have had a fail in this department before! But it was all good, so proceeded to fit some 1/2" tube to reach to bottom of tank, with couple mm clearance. Both send and return to reduce air inclusion:

[Image: DSC_1624.JPG]

[Image: DSC_1625.JPG]

And fitted to the car with hoses hooked up:

[Image: DSC_1685.JPG]


Next issue was fuel filtration, very much hate just about  all standard Peugeot CR items, messy, fiddly and frustrating to change in just about all cases, also wanted to run a 5 micron filter to help protect my pump / injectors. So settled on a industrial filter head and filter, was going to use a Deere head and filter, but was less than impressed at the price of the filter head at my main dealer, so promptly changed that plan! Overall flow looked a bit poor in the filter head, so drilled out each inlet / outlet within an inch of there life, and then piped it up to use both inlets and both outlets to ensure I don't create a restriction:

[Image: DSC_1634.JPG]


Standard item Bosch 044 with a cleanable pre filter on it to keep the major crap out the pump / clogging up the final filter (which is easily done at 5 micron level):

[Image: DSC_1637.JPG]


Drilled and rivnutted some mounting holes under the boot floor:

[Image: DSC_1630.JPG]


Cut sheet of ally and test bolted up:

[Image: DSC_1632.JPG]



Then bolted everything up, changing fuel filter is now going to be a breeze, and no mess involved!

[Image: DSC_1698.JPG]


And a photo of the engine end plumbed up:

[Image: DSC_1689.JPG]


Then time to drop injectors in the head.  Injectors are basically a stock 16v item from bosch, with larger nozzles fitted. I have then had them extensively flow tested by a professional diesel company (I have no means of testing CR injectors to this level) to give me a full flow table (duration vs rail pressure) to allow me to setup the injector calibrations in the ECU correctly.

Started by re fitting the PSA mounting hardware:

[Image: DSC_1715.JPG]


Then bolted them to the head. Have bought new injector lines for the injectors, and also had to custom bend a new line for the pump, as obviously much longer / different location to normal!

[Image: DSC_1708.JPG]



New line fitted to pump, had to remove swirl pot for access to fuel rail etc:

[Image: DSC_1711.JPG]


And all plumbed up, just the returns to finish off:

[Image: DSC_1720.JPG]


Re-fitted the oil cooler, after welding new fitting to one side as existing one was leaking / half sheared off! (Mocal coolers built like utter crap imho!):

[Image: DSC_1722.JPG]


Then bend up a new bit of line for the EMP gauge cooler and fitted it to the manifold, and plumbed up the gauge:

[Image: DSC_1655.JPG]

[Image: DSC_1660.JPG]



Then fitted turbo acuator, PWM activated hella unit, with oem linkage, just had to modify mounting bracket slightly for clearance, other than that bolted right on:

[Image: DSC_1682.JPG]



Then started on the charge pipework, wanted to run air temp sensors on both stages of charging, as well as raw intake charge, so started by welding plates on the effected boost pipes, and drilling  / tapping them for map sensors and air temp sensors:

[Image: DSC_1694.JPG]

[Image: DSC_1704.JPG]

[Image: DSC_1706.JPG]

Then mounted a plate up for the reg valve for the external gate so I can control that from the ECU also, along with the MAP sensor for the first stage of charging, this being a 3 bar sensor, and the main map sensor on the intake being a 5 bar sensor.

[Image: DSC_1726.JPG]



Then started fitting up all the hoses etc to the car:

[Image: DSC_1728.JPG]

[Image: DSC_1727.JPG]


Interchoocher back on:

[Image: DSC_1731.JPG]

[Image: DSC_1732.JPG]

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Which largely leaves it nearly mechanically finished, Next major job is wiring the engine / car up, and testing some systems out etc.

Thanks for reading Smile
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Ive just fell in love! Looks absolutley insane!

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Still Living For The 306  Rofl

306 Ph1 Dturbo Estate
205 1.9 GTI (Rust.In.Pieces)
306 HDI Stage 3 Estate (Rust.In.Pieces)
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Wow!

That cooler is mahoosive! Massive attention to detail on this and meticulous planning Smile
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Team Cyril
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Great read as always Darren, some pretty big steps forward look like. A pretty epic update tbf. Just looks so awesome.
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Oooffff. Wickywicky freestyler!
Wishes for more power...
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CHRIST!!!

Not been on here for ages but seen your fb pics, and an now I'm late for bed after readin this thread through!

This is looking awesome stoked its back alive gain, nearly. bit amazed its not ve pumped though. As always some bledy craftsmanship going on in this build, top work Darren.
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Midnightclub Wrote:All the cool kids have ph 2 Nile 6's!
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Rediculous as always!
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Great update! Looking like this is gonna be at some shows next year I hope mate, love to see her when she's up and cracking Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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What a beast. Pics look amazing.
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Darren I just put your new front end side by site with your old pornstar front end, this is definitely the refined gentlemans car that the first edition didnt have hahaha!!! You know what I thought about the previous version and this one looks so much better. Sometimes its better to see the knickers through the leggings than the flaps hanging out.  Rofl

The consistent hoses also makes a huge difference, and the removal of blue am in favour for  Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin

Love you work, really looking forward to seeing this over xmas.
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Engine bay looking very tidy and full of blowers Big Grin

Proper job on all the fuel system and lines, work of art.

Looking pretty tight on the blower side, intercooler pipes going down, airfilter, your remote power steering pump down that way too?

Can feel the car coming together now, shan't be long till we hear some noise form it I'm sure.
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(29-11-2016, 11:12 PM)kernow_joe Wrote: CHRIST!!!

Not been on here for ages but seen your fb pics, and an now I'm late for bed after readin this thread through!

This is looking awesome stoked its back alive gain, nearly. bit amazed its not ve pumped though. As always some bledy craftsmanship going on in this build, top work Darren.

Good to see you back on here Joe! Been a long while!

(30-11-2016, 04:45 AM)Dave Wrote: Darren I just put your new front end side by site with your old pornstar front end, this is definitely the refined gentlemans car that the first edition didnt have hahaha!!! You know what I thought about the previous version and this one looks so much better. Sometimes its better to see the knickers through the leggings than the flaps hanging out.  Rofl

The consistent hoses also makes a huge difference, and the removal of blue am in favour for  Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin

Love you work, really looking forward to seeing this over xmas.

Pornstar front end lol! Have certainly tamed it down somewhat this time around, to the point where alot of things that have taken alot of time effort, almost look stock / looked over!
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