darrenjlobb's Adaptronic Managed Compound Blown Derv Bus Build

[Magenta Sunset]

a very tidy job. well done!

[Ben]

Good update! Much more exciting when the engines in the car!

[Piggy]

Time for fanfare

[welshpug]

Satchshift was developed on a Diesel btw.

[ginge191]

Awesome update! Really good to see this in place!

[dr_jekyll]

f*cking love this build so much, will the comeback king end up on the rollers again next year at fcs? [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH AND TIGHTLY-CLOSED EYES]

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[Piggy]

Satchshift was developed on a Diesel btw.

I'm thinking it wasnt acustom built 16v hdi with 4 branch manifold, twin turbos and mahoosive downpipe though

[Eeyore]

saw the update on facebook. Now that the engine is in should only be a few days before its finished right?

[Frosty]

Great to see some more pretty major steps forward taking place with this car Darren.

[procta]

nice to see you have got the running gear in finally!

[Mattcheese31]

proper bobby dazzler mate . . . . . . i'm down your way this week, probs not get chance as with wife and kids n such but love to see it though, close to running now eh? if only someone close by had a dyno for setting the tune up . . . . . . oh wait lol . .

[darrenjlobb]

Another small update,  As somewhat anticipated, I had some issues to overcome with the BE4 conversion. At some point I think around 2004, PSA changed the angle that most of there engines sit at in the engine bay, from the old 30degree, to a more upright 15 degree.. This seems to be mainly achieved by the bell housing on the BE4, which is rotated 15 degrees to that of the older BE3...Now as you can imagine, this is  a problem, as I ran my RHW at 30 degrees (stock for 306) previously, but that puts the gearbox in on the piss, shafts foul the subframe, and box mount is at an angle. So decided I would convert the engine mount to actually run the engine at the intended angle in the 306, which was going to give me some extra advantages with down pipe clearance, and also fuel pump clearance as the front of the motor drops down. Was able to use a late model lower mount to line up the driveshaft center bearing, and also pull the sump towards subframe. 


After lots of searching, and measuring, it seems from what I can see anyway, there is no such thing as a stock drop in mount that will fit a 306, and put the engine at 15 degrees, Maybe I have missed one, but I searched for quite a while (far to long) and couldnt come up with anything, and given no stock mounts fit my engine 100% anyway as I use the 4 bolt volvo style engine bracket, it was never going to be "ideal" anyway. So decided to just make one rather than spend days searching / waiting for one to turn up and be wrong!

So I got the engine up on the trans mount and lower mount again, and then jacked / manipulated engine into a "happy" position, so where the level was sitting level left to right, and also inline with the axle on the car, which left me with the stock mount sitting around central to the engine side:



So cut out two plates, vee'd out the weld lines, tacked them together and center drilled all the mount holes:



Then welded it all up solid:




Then ground back all the welds to try and make it appear an OEM item:







Then welded some extra 10mm sections on the top to add strength lengthways across the mount, likely a bit overkill given the strength of the plates anyway, but wont do any harm:






Lick of paint:




And fitted it to the car with some new stainless bolts:




So engine is now hopefully sat in its final position, just need to flip the mount in the lower casing. Got to kick car out the workshop now for a few weeks to work on the 305 etc!

Thanks for reading

[Eeyore]

A terrible update as always! Wish I had the skill and tools to just make stuff like this!

[bashbarnard]

A terrible update as always! Wish I had the skill and tools to just make stuff like this!

Lol buy them and learn no suck thing as cant!!

Also there is a lot of money hanging on that mount, id have put that little extra strength on that mount as well.

[dr_jekyll]

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[welshpug]

lol.

that wont break, mint.

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stainless bolts might though.....

[darrenjlobb]

A terrible update as always! Wish I had the skill and tools to just make stuff like this!

To be fair Sam, the only tools used to make this would be a welder, grinder and drill press? And all 3 could have been cheap models and done just the same job... Anyone can learn these tools if they practice

lol.

that wont break, mint.

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stainless bolts might though.....

Wouldn't have thought there would be an issue on something like this bound up tight, but will keep an eye...

[darrenjlobb]

Not sure who is trolling and who isnt here lol.... I know welsh pug is making a relevant point, stainless bolts wouldn't normally be used in stressed locations, given there generally no stronger than a grade 2/5 otherwise, however in this particular situation, using quality bolts and four bolts of this size cant really see there being a problem....However when my engine falls out, I guess you can have the last laugh...

(I didn't delete the posts by the way, someones had a clear up so this post now dosnt make sense )

[Rippthrough]

If you've used A4-80's they should be okay, those cheap chinese A2/A4-70's that are everywhere seem to made of cheese though.

Is that powerflexes new 'fixed' design for the lower bush?
It'll vibrate like f*ck, I still they're still as clueless as normal over there, there's a good reason Peugeot didn't clamp the sides of the fork to the bush - I'd bend the fork a little and fit washers either side if your fillings start to come loose

[darrenjlobb]

The bolts are of high quality from local machine shop, not ebay. Either way, if people are really lucky I might even swap these out for some grade 8's next time its in the workshop just to keep people on here happy

The engine mounts are vibratechnics with powerflex lower mount. There are washers that go in there, just not fitted in photograph as that entire mount assembly was the be3 temporary mount just to get engine in the car.... They get all of the abuse, but in all honesty, not sure what is better...Stock ones last 5 minutes, baker BM ones may as well be solid... I have had good luck with them to be honest, never had a problem really yet anyway....Could have got a vibratechnic one to complete the set, but given I had never had issues before, figured I would stick with what I knew

[Rippthrough]

Those big spreader washers they tried before?

The problem is the bottom of the engine shuffles side to side when the cylinders fire, that's why the stock peugeot arm has a cylinderical bush at the rear and the rubber is at the top and bottom not front and rear - to allow that vibration side by side to be filtered out, whilst trying to restrain the engine front to rear.

The powerflex achieves the latter by almost completely eradicating the former - that's why they had splitting issues previously, all they've done now is spread it over more of the bush to stiffen it even further so the bush isn't getting twisted - with the result that the firing imbalance gets transmitted straight into the chassis - it's going to be even worse with the kind of power/torque pulses you'll be generating.

If you like it, you like it, but they've put no more thought into that mount than the previous problematic one.

[welshpug]

The Vibratechnics lower bush looks identical to the BBM item, though the material may be different, they do settle down a little with use.

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not sure how you kill stock ones so quickly, unless by stock you mean motorfactor units?

[darrenjlobb]

The Vibratechnics lower bush looks identical to the BBM item, though the material may be different, they do settle down a little with use.

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not sure how you kill stock ones so quickly, unless by stock you mean motorfactor units?

I have seen many people have problems with the powerflex units, but personally have always put it down to the way it was installed etc... Ripp makes a valid comment with regard to restricting the engines sideways movement, although in my view this is actually a good thing to some degree. Please remember, I am not building a daily driver here... 

With regard to your comment on how we are destroying these... No offence intended, but have you see the way these motors fight there way out of the engine bay if you let them fuel mid range? I know you tend to work on petrols in general, and not saying you don't have the experience, but it really is quite a different ballgame...
You seem to like to second question everything I do as if the problem shouldn't be happening and isn't happening to anyone else....Do you assume I am just making things up? They get destroyed, because, they get destroyed....therefore, we look for an alternative / stronger solution... And from MY own experience I have had no hassle with the PF units...hence why I continue to use them on that lower mount.   I generally use my own experience above most things I read on the internet, as I have found over the years, the internet contains an awful lot of rubbish and false information...That said, everyone here has valid points, I guess if nothing else, it will be interesting to see in this application how it gets on, and given I have the mount, I guess this can decide for me, and anyone else that is interested

Again, if it fails, you can have the last laugh And I will then have good reason to change to another product....

[Rippthrough]

To be honest, I'm not keen on the stock mount either - I've put a half billet alloy/half polyurethane mount in the 406 even though it's just a cruiser because the slack in take up on the OEM mount when you get hard on the throttle pisses me off.

[Piggy]

I've now done over 20k miles on the original PF designed lower engine mount... And its no DJLobb beast, but I think people realise that 2.1 makes decent torque... On Lobbs dyno videos you see the engine trying to escape.

I dont find it too bad vibration either tbh.

[Matt-Rallye]

Alot of high quality work and thinking going on here! i like it

[darrenjlobb]

Needed to mount a reservoir for the clutch cylinder, toyed with using a stock dual purpose one, but in the end decided to mount a separate res for simplicity. Looked at stroke on MC and realised that very little fluid was actually required, so decided to just use a small motorcycle reservoir, which worked out well and sits out the way.



Then proceeded to plumb up the high pressure side around the front of the engine to avoid the heat, bleed it, and then test the whole thing out, which pleased to report is working very well. Smooth pedal and good travel at the slave end, so very happy with the whole hydro conversion!

Next job was the down pipe / exhaust, down pipe to be slightly more challenging due to the extremely small amount of space to route it down past the motor into the exhaust tunnel.

So started working back from the V band flange I left on the turbo outlet pipe that I had already made, just tacking it all for now:



Lots of chopping / tacking etc slowly working my way down around the collector and gear linkages:








Once trial fitted / hangers tacked on and happy, welded the entire thing up, have got 3 splits in the system using v band clamps, just makes it easier to fit / change later on down the road, and find v band setups much easier to split / deal with vs a flange or sleeve.


Welding nothing special I'm afraid, no one is going to see it and was determined to get it welded up today and finished with :








And fitted back to the car, just missing some new heavy duty exhaust rubbers, so slung on some old ones for time being:







Thanks for looking

[unclebeast]

One word...BRILLIANT!

[Magenta Sunset]

lovely set of pix

[ginge191]

That droopy tip....