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Getting a sheet of zintec may be worthwhile if you really want it to last? Just linish the edge you want to weld first and obviously don't breathe too much of the fumes in.
(23-06-2016, 11:32 AM)Eeyore Wrote: so you have the factory underseal... and it comes off just by taking a wire wheel to it? i will need to do mine at some point.
There are definitely some bits on your car that need doing Sam. Make sure you get a twisted knot cup brush, expensive but last loads longer and remove stuff faster. Eye protection is absolutely vital tho, aswell as for people who may be working around you. I know a lad who very nearly lost the use of his eye, a few years ago before recent technology he would have done!
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I thought it was the underseal holding the Rallyes together??
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Spun the wire wheel cup into the grinder and ran around all the accessible areas with it.
Does a fairly decent job
From this:
To this:
Made a plate up for the hole above, (just used what I had as it'll never be a show piece) placed it in but just need to shape it a little better, started on fresh bumper mounts, need to bend to how i want them.
Cleaned majority of the underside where I wanted to, right faff trying to get into the runners where the bump stops are. Last area to address is the seam ridge that the tank sits on the front, the paint is starting to flake off.
Chopped the brake pipes off, drained fluid and have two new flexi pipes coming.
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oh wow thats done a really decent job. Did you get the wheel online? what brand? able to link?
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(28-06-2016, 10:28 AM)Eeyore Wrote: oh wow thats done a really decent job. Did you get the wheel online? what brand? able to link?
Just a cheapy set but as you can see the results are fine. Bought the set as you can mix and match depending on access.
eBay Link
Also had a set of these from previous but used to get in the hard places. Recommend a mains drill as its pretty hard going.
Screwfix Link
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05-08-2016, 11:44 AM
(This post was last modified: 05-08-2016, 11:44 AM by mr_fish.)
So to update, I ‘welded’ a patch in where there was daylight and then applied liberal amounts of POR15 both top and bottom side. Also painted majority of the underside in it as well.
Lashed together a couple bumper mounts out of the spare metal box, that’ll do the job, and put them in place.
While tank was off I checked the strainer which all seemed good.
Couple new bits of fuel pipe
Genuine handbrake cables
Cankered up wheel cylinders, which were both seized, so got replaced, tight ass pagid don’t give you the 10mm securing bolts. Shoes were very good (probably from not doing too much).
Ran new brake pipe from in front the tank to the cylinders
Used an old style gunson eezibleed kit (as there was no fluid in the system) actually pretty good to use and made bleeding the system a piece of cake.
Dropped it down on some wheels and went for a test.
Such retro…
Got one of the GRD’s optional extra’s back functioning again
Took it for MOT. Frosty feeling privileged here behind the wheel of a previous car that was sold from his workplace.
Then it went to Pugfest and up the hill at nigh on full WOT
Connor holding on from the base spec suspension lean
And it drove home again fine.
Been using it daily for a bit, then the temp insurance ran out so its parked up awaiting being stripped apart.
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Nice, this still on standard rods?
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(05-08-2016, 01:06 PM)bashbarnard Wrote: Nice, this still on standard rods?
Stock D8A block with ARPs
the Kawasaki green paint holds it together.
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Clearly the green paint. I love the fact the engine is still alive, the car just makes this more awesome as well good o see you keeping up the work on it
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(05-08-2016, 01:30 PM)mr_fish Wrote: (05-08-2016, 01:06 PM)bashbarnard Wrote: Nice, this still on standard rods? the Kawasaki green paint holds it together.
This gives me a plan for the Cummins
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To update (for the lolz)
Few parts have been sold off:
Brakes
Clutch & Plate
ARPs
So engine to be removed and scavenge those bits off
About time I pull off the bonnet sound deadening too.
On an intrigued note, anyone happen to know what the relay does behind the N/S suspension turret. Saw an XL model the other day and it didn’t have the box at all. If not I’ll just pull it out, next time I have a battery on the car, and see what doesn’t work. Wires go off into the interior loom.
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Whats the plans for it now then???
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Dragging the 309 into the present day
Thats the plan at the moment
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errr maa geerrddd. This is so winning. I think the stock bonnet deadening looks funky!
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thank farrrrkk! thought you'd resigned it to the pile for a second there, this is a 2.1 isn't it? ..
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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Does that bottom end look familiar to me?
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My guess is 2.0lt bottom end 2.2 head/16v head. The combo i want for my car but cannot afford at present
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(21-09-2016, 05:07 PM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: thank farrrrkk! thought you'd resigned it to the pile for a second there, this is a 2.1 isn't it? .. Nooooo
Thats a 16v head
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casual update there mate!
the age of 16v hdi is almost upon us. I'll go back to fashioning spears out of xud broken xud rods or something
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(22-09-2016, 05:19 AM)Piggy Wrote: (21-09-2016, 05:07 PM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: thank farrrrkk! thought you'd resigned it to the pile for a second there, this is a 2.1 isn't it? .. Nooooo
Thats a 16v head
ahhh I did suspect, not as familier as you boys on these fankenlumps
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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Yeah well said tom...
"heres a random engine in a 309....oh wait...thats not just any random engine"
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Its a bit of a mixture; 2.0 (RHM) bottom end (unknown runner - bought off some dodgy geezer - YOLO an' all that) 2.2 Head off the C5 I had, and a mixture of 206 Eco ancillaries (Cheers Dum Dum)
Had the plan/thought since April 2015 (when I bought the C5) just been rather lazy with it.
The RHM - pulled the head off and also dropped the sump and cleaned that out, and also the oil pump strainer, hopefully to give it half a chance
Got the inlet off the 2.2 to be greeted with this, swirl flaps vac pipe was split so these weren't doing much and also the turbo did a very good handshake, no wonder it was gutless
Broke out the pressure washer on the head
Valves a bit of an issue but my legend of a neighbour showed me the way he used to do it and machined up a tool so i could use the pillar drill (scrap head for testing purposes)
Going back together, still on the lobb land engine stand which seems to be on permanent loan
Cams dropped in, new cam chain kit, seals, belt kit and waterpump. Assembly lube to aid the first crank over...hopefully
Currently on engine mount issues, made something up to support the engine for the moment but will need something better.
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really very happy this is not just still going, but going BIGGER
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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oh man the engine looks so clean and tidy! Just gunk to clean and then what primer and paint?
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(22-09-2016, 10:06 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: really very happy this is not just still going, but going BIGGER
Cheers Matt
Hoping to get it together, run it in, and then take it to Scotland for a bit of a driving holiday. Dum Dum put photos up ages ago when he had his rallye and has since made me want to take the trip.
(22-09-2016, 10:22 AM)Eeyore Wrote: oh man the engine looks so clean and tidy! Just gunk to clean and then what primer and paint?
Yeah Gunk'd it over, think I then chucked a bit of thinners around stubborn grimy areas then just painted over with some paint I had from spraying a motorbike frame (hence Kawasaki Green). Was going to be Kubota Orange but I didn't have enough.
Only done for a laugh really.
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make it a club event if you like. id be game for a scotland driving trip!
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thats the ones, 4th from the bottom is something like it
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