(18-04-2016, 08:31 AM)cully Wrote: ah you your on about the spring clips that lay across the top edge of the pad!
yes they work ok without them but like you say may rattle squeel
good progress tom
Ah that's good then, Rowell has about 50 rear carriers so can hopefully grab a spare spring from him at some point!
(18-04-2016, 08:43 AM)Eeyore Wrote: Good progress mate. Glad to see some of my old parts helped!
Yup, thanks! Got a few to bring back as well. Could also do with a non bent wheel brace if we didn't scrap them all the other day lol.
Had a spare half hour this morning to hoover, clean windows inside, spray dash shine everywhere and use many anti-bac wipes to remove 17 years of filth from the controls...I can now drive it without gloves haha!
Got the insurance sorted? Yep I've got two wheel braces. Just come over and grab one. Think we kept all the rear carriers so should have the springs somewhere.
Insurance not sorted yet. Got a quote of £400ish from Admiral, just waiting to see if Flux can do better! Hoping to get it taxed (6 months) and insured under £500 but that may be a bit optimistic.
It's lowered and aftermarket exhaust, could add air filter potentially as well. Woulda been cheaper on Admiral without those but I can't unlower the beam so it'll have to stay like that.
18-04-2016, 07:49 PM (This post was last modified: 18-04-2016, 07:56 PM by Toms306.)
£350 TPFT. I know some of you will have it cheaper but I'm not exactly a low risk for insurers lol.
Btw, does anyone know what size nut and bolt I need to replace the door handle rivets? I don't have a rivet gun so be easier to bolt the new one on but I don't have many spares here to try.
(20-04-2016, 12:46 PM)ozonehostile Wrote: You'll need an m6 bolt iirc about 10mm long
Cheers Zakk.
Replaced the headlight bulb and wheel brace today. And gave it probably the worst wash ever...one bucket, and a watering can to rinse... But in fairness I didn't have time to give it a decent polish and wax so no need to do it properly! Looks alright though, I'll add a couple of pics from the phone later.
20-04-2016, 07:52 PM (This post was last modified: 20-04-2016, 08:11 PM by Toms306.)
I got it...its stupid low at the back, but I don't have a slide hammer so it'll stay like that lol. Oddly it's not as crashy as I thought it would be and grips well too, even on the mismatched budget rears!
Just done a 50 mile round trip in it to a meet, forgot how quick they are towards the redline!!
Tracking is off, or at least the steering wheel is. May have to get that sorted. But the bigger issue ATM is the heater is stuck on regardless of dial position . I can cope with no AC but not permanent hot air lol. Is temp cable controlled and likely to be cable at fault? Or is it fan speed that's cable controlled? I know direction is.
Also, I was the only 306 there, let alone the only GTi6, hopefully someone will come with me next time haha! Also getting funny looks getting in the passenger side and scooting over so really need to sort that door handle.
you can finally change your sig to "Spends life on 306oc....drives a Ford...mostly"
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
The cable for the heater control panel probably hasn't been reattached properly when they did the heater matrix, bit of a pain to do at the best of times!
Current stable '09 Mercedes E320cdi wagon '99 306 gti6
Is temp definitely cable controlled before I go ripping it all out though? I know theres two cables, ones for direction. But I cant think how the other would control temp? Thought flaps were electronically controlled with little motors?
I honestly can't believe someone picked up this car, paid £680 odd for the work done and took it away without questioning all the breakages/fails during the matrix change! Surely if you couldn't get cold air you'd take it back immediately and tell them to sort it FOC!!