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Well as you might know I was having the odd problem with lights flickering and dimming. I decided to get my self a voltmeter that goes in the ciggy lighter (Has a USB charger, and temp sensor as well) 
Anyway, Using the voltmeter I took some measurements before and after installing a large cable from the alternator and the battery positive.
(No cable on idle)
Lights on - 14.5v
Heater on - 14.4v
Lights + Heater - 14.3v
(With cable on idle)
Lights on - 14.5v
Heater on - 14.5v
Lights + Heater - 14.5v
Seems to have made a difference to the headlight brightness as well. I have two more cables to do the earths with soon as well which will make a difference as well hopefully.
I didn't take into account in this test loading it up more like heated rear window, window wipers, my audio system etc so the gains would be more noticeable there as well.
Thought I would share my findings because I have noticed brighter headlights being the best positive of this this whole thing
very good for winter dark night driving
Jack
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good update.
another method, mini multi-meter across the battery terminals under similar tests. (maybe?)
It goes, it stops (as reqd). 
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29-12-2015, 11:16 PM
(This post was last modified: 29-12-2015, 11:25 PM by JTaylor2005.
Edit Reason: Misspelled word
)
Yeah I have an analogue one but its a pain to read. To be honest I don't doubt the reading of the volt meter I have as tbf its always sitting at 14.4v when idle and no load on which sound spot on
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Defintitely some good research going on here. On the 1.8 the negative battery terminal was loose. Before it went if you put the headlights on it would cut everything else out for 2 seconds including the ecu. Dash off music off etc. Also putting full beam on would do the same thing. Its definitely a worthy upgrade!
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This is the 'Car Audio Big Three' right?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5E2Zuw03jCQ
Always worth doing! Not done mine yet mind, but have some nice cable handy now...
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I replaced my battery leads and earth straps and the difference was night and day. Issue is especially with the battery leads is they flex over time and the strands break at the connections. When I removed my old one, I'd say about half the strands weren't actually connected so we're useless.
Proper quality cable, proper quality crimps that have actually been crimped properly and maybe even solder filled for good measure and you will see a difference.
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1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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Reminds me, I've just replaced my positive clamp, the quick release part of the Peugeot clamp had been bodged into a cheap fitting, worked fine, but obviously electrons not getting where they want to go as fast, Halfords have some pretty meaty clamps, £7 a piece iirc so got one of those.
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Quick question. When I turn my ignition to the second stage I hear a relay click. It stays on for about 5 seconds. The voltage is around 11.2v then after the 5 seconds is up the voltage jumps back up to 12.2v.
Do you think this is the glow plugs?
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(30-12-2015, 06:10 PM)JTaylor2005 Wrote: Quick question. When I turn my ignition to the second stage I hear a relay click. It stays on for about 5 seconds. The voltage is around 11.2v then after the 5 seconds is up the voltage jumps back up to 12.2v.
Do you think this is the glow plugs?
seeing as its a hdi its a pretty good guess!
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(30-12-2015, 06:10 PM)JTaylor2005 Wrote: Quick question. When I turn my ignition to the second stage I hear a relay click. It stays on for about 5 seconds. The voltage is around 11.2v then after the 5 seconds is up the voltage jumps back up to 12.2v.
Do you think this is the glow plugs?
yes glow plugs or fuel pump priming ...
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2 Q's, does the wire need to be that thick, & is that fuse necessary?
It goes, it stops (as reqd).
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If its the video your looking at the size of the cable in then most likely not. I just got a £5.50 36" battery cable from halfords and modified the alternator terminal plastic surround to make it fit haha
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i only replaced the battery earth-gearbox and gearbox-chassis with 35mm cables that alone help my car no end 
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(30-12-2015, 06:42 PM)Magenta Sunset Wrote: 2 Q's, does the wire need to be that thick, & is that fuse necessary?
Depends if you're installing a chronic audio set up or not. If you just want to refresh your earths and power cables oem thickness will be fine.
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Country: 
35mm welding cable. Generally a lot cheaper than anything marketed for automotive use.
Same applies for vinyl (wierdly), its peanuts from a signwriters supplier, but as soon as someone tries to sell it 'for cars' the same stuff triples in value
As for light:voltage. The table on this page shows the reduction in lumens for a given voltage loss
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/...elays.html
So its well worth checking your wiring and uprating, if needs be, to ensure a full 14+v is getting to the lamps
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thanks guys!
It goes, it stops (as reqd).
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Well today I started my car. Drove for about 2 minutes and the voltage was hitting 14.9v which seems pretty high considering it should be 14.4v Do you think this is excessive or should it be okay? If it seems high I will probably just get a voltage regulator and change that on the alternator?
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