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Hi
Me and a few mates have recently converted my Ph1 to HDI and have since had problems with the running. We keep getting the P1138 code- fuel pressure valve mechanical malfunction.
We have changed-
Lift pump
Brown relay
5 different fuel pressure regulators
Fuel pressure sensor
Fuel pressure sensor wiring
Hp fuel pump
Ecu.
Still no joy, same thing. Can anybody 
Thanks.
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Get it hooked up to Peugeot planet and watch what the fuel pressure requested vs actual is
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P1138 is:- "Fuel pressure. Stop requested but regulator still active." [Often rail sensor or it's connexions.]
What are the running problems?
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30-12-2015, 11:53 AM
(This post was last modified: 30-12-2015, 11:56 AM by aggyj17.)
I'm working with him and has helped to put the engine in. The car is basically a ph3 now as it has the entire ph3 loom all plugged in no cutting and joining. The donor car was running absolutely fine on stage 2 power no cutting out or anything. Basically now the car will fire up and run for 5-20 seconds and then will start to advance itself quite alot (quite bad diesel knock) and then just cut out bringing up that error code.
Also the car runs at around 525 bar on idle then when it starts to knock the pressure starts to rise up to 850ish before cutting out.
![[Image: d8338dea6d891416dc54bb71c809e0a9.jpg]](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151230/d8338dea6d891416dc54bb71c809e0a9.jpg)
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Is the yellow plug on the short extension still cable tied from the rail sensor? They get loose if not.
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30-12-2015, 12:03 PM
(This post was last modified: 30-12-2015, 12:03 PM by aggyj17.)
Yep it was cable tied also swapped the cable over to another one and still the same.
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Going to look at the voltages at th Frps so wot that says.
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Sounds like there's something blocking the return, got all the fuel pipes connected up right?
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Yeah everything is connected as it should be. Going to change the engine wiring loom I think and see what happens.
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The wiring loom.on the engine has now been swapped and the ecu earth is now connected directly to the battery, still no change. Really clueless now 
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Tried the fuel temp sensor?
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That's about the only sensor that hasn't been changed
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(30-12-2015, 11:53 AM)aggyj17 Wrote:
Also the car runs at around 525 bar on idle then when it starts to knock the pressure starts to rise up to 850ish before cutting out.
That is a huge issue - the regulator must genuinely be jammed, they should be around 300bar at idle.
Do all the regulators you use look the same, there seems to be two types from what I've seen in the past.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.  Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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Yes they all look the same, all came from running engines when removed. Tried them with and without the metal gaskets still no different. Next port of call is take one out of a running car and go from there
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It comes up regulator mechanical malfunction I think don't it aggie? Would the temp sensor cause any issues?
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It comes up regulator mechanical malfunction I think don't it aggie? Would the temp sensor cause any issues?
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P1112 mainly
![[Image: e89edffb86ec5846e58e1941c189c942.jpg]](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160105/e89edffb86ec5846e58e1941c189c942.jpg)
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Still says to me you've either got an electrical control problem or a blocked return line.
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I'll have a look at the return then but I'm pretty sure its fine. We had the return feed pumping into a bottle in the engine bay and it still did the same thing. Wish I'd stayed Xud 
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Take a video of what happens in PP2k.
Also if it's on PP2k - show the requested vs actual fuel pressure along with relief valve OCR% and current. Also note down any fault codes PP2k thinks - it's more likely to be correct in it's description of the faults than a generic code reader.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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Electrical it is then. Are you sure all the plugs are on right? Iirc it's pretty easy to get a couple of them the wrong way round, eg swap the fpr and fuel temp plugs.
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We didn't even take the loom off the engine when it went in
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All the plugs are definitely in the right places. We don't have access PP2K either which isn't ideal
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Very strange, there must be something we're missing... Is there anything else that was changed on the engine between cars? Still using the same ecu and map?
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Nothing was changed. The car now has a ph3 interior loom, ph3 dash loom, fuel tank and lines. Same ecu and map (stage2). The engine was literally taken out of the donor dropped onto a trailer and taken to the car and dropped in
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might sound stupid, but return and feed lines are the right way round on the pump ? at both ends?
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I am 99.9% sure they are as the feed is a bigger diameter pipe and won't go on the other Way round lol [GRINNING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]
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I would of said lift pump issue.
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Has it ever run longer than that period of time??
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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