Posts: 91
Threads: 21
Joined: Mar 2015
Reputation:
0
Location: Doncaster
Car Model/Spec: 306 hdi estate
Thanks: 0
Given 1 thank(s) in 1 post(s)
Hi just wondering if anyone has any ideas what the difference between the plastic drop links and the metal ones are. I no that the plastic ones were mainly on the hdi gti etc. But does anyone know if there are really different. Thinking lenghts etc. Only asking as mine are now none existing.
Posts: 20,092
Threads: 591
Joined: Nov 2012
Reputation:
54
Location: Cotswolds
Car Model/Spec: Stage 13 16v HDi
Thanks: 22
Given 68 thank(s) in 68 post(s)
Lengths are the same I believe
I've always run the plastic ones. I recall reading somewhere they were better. Cant recall why!
Posts: 3,539
Threads: 42
Joined: Mar 2012
Reputation:
28
Thanks: 3
Given 89 thank(s) in 88 post(s)
plastic ones are stronger and quieter.
Posts: 18,242
Threads: 386
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
87
Location: Suffolk
Car Model/Spec: Focus Titanium
Thanks: 1
Given 118 thank(s) in 117 post(s)
They were all plastic originally, metal ones are aftermarket.
Plastic ones can flex slightly and return to shape, or pushed too far will snap. Metal ones bend easily and don't return to shape. So decent plastic ones are better tbh.
Posts: 5,494
Threads: 202
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
58
Location: Eastleigh
Car Model/Spec: S16 and HDi daily
Thanks: 2
Given 29 thank(s) in 28 post(s)
Yeah, plastic was OE. Metal was OE on lots of other vehicles though. I haven't seen a bent droplink in ages, and I see lots of very tired cars!
As for them being quieter, that surely only applies if they've got play in the balljoints I.E need replacing anyway.
I'd fit Lemforder. OE spec and reasonably priced for what you get.
Welding and fabrication projects undertaken, contact me for more information.
Posts: 3,539
Threads: 42
Joined: Mar 2012
Reputation:
28
Thanks: 3
Given 89 thank(s) in 88 post(s)
TRW were o.e.
early 306 and zx had metal.
Posts: 19,854
Threads: 581
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
195
Location: Bournemouth
Car Model/Spec: Supercharged 306 GTi6
Thanks: 36
Given 82 thank(s) in 78 post(s)
Metal were OE on the Partner and Berlingo as standard as well but a lot of motor factors list them as the same as the 306 ones hence why a lot of people fit metal ones these days.
If i didnt have adjustable ones, id run plastic ones. Lengths and fitment is identical but the plastic ones can flex if needed (which really they shouldn't)
Team Eaton
1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
Posts: 91
Threads: 21
Joined: Mar 2015
Reputation:
0
Location: Doncaster
Car Model/Spec: 306 hdi estate
Thanks: 0
Given 1 thank(s) in 1 post(s)
Cheers for the info people explains alot wondered why a few part places were saying metal. Ive got the plastic ones on so will stick with them if i dont lower it then will get the adjustable ones. Thought a previous owner may have put on the wrong ones. But thanks again.
Posts: 19,854
Threads: 581
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
195
Location: Bournemouth
Car Model/Spec: Supercharged 306 GTi6
Thanks: 36
Given 82 thank(s) in 78 post(s)
Depending on how much you lower by, you will need adjustable ones. Too many people drop their cars 40-50mm, bend a DL or two very shortly and whinge saying they are a load of crap. Its not that at all. Its that the length needs to change with the car being lowered.
Team Eaton
1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
Posts: 2,526
Threads: 143
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
10
Location: South East London
Car Model/Spec: Ph3 XUD
Thanks: 1
Given 8 thank(s) in 8 post(s)
(02-08-2015, 09:15 PM)Niall Wrote: Depending on how much you lower by, you will need adjustable ones. Too many people drop their cars 40-50mm, bend a DL or two very shortly and whinge saying they are a load of crap. Its not that at all. Its that the length needs to change with the car being lowered.
Probably why I've bent at least one and it had some rubbing on it too
Posts: 91
Threads: 21
Joined: Mar 2015
Reputation:
0
Location: Doncaster
Car Model/Spec: 306 hdi estate
Thanks: 0
Given 1 thank(s) in 1 post(s)
I dont do things by half like to do things right the first time. Was thinking around 30 to 40 drop as the roads around me are crap. Due to gas works for the next 6 months. I have heard about the bending and have told many a mate that they should have got shorter ones. Most listen after the 2nd pair lol.
Posts: 1,111
Threads: 61
Joined: May 2015
Reputation:
3
Location: Glasgow
Car Model/Spec: Phase 1 306 xsS
Thanks: 20
Given 21 thank(s) in 21 post(s)
Plastic ones are much easier to remove too when it all goes to shit and they start spinning!
Posts: 13,881
Threads: 476
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
81
Location: Ipswich
Car Model/Spec: 306 Rallye
Thanks: 4
Given 104 thank(s) in 102 post(s)
(02-08-2015, 07:08 AM)Toms306 Wrote: They were all plastic originally, metal ones are aftermarket.
Plastic ones can flex slightly and return to shape, or pushed too far will snap. Metal ones bend easily and don't return to shape. So decent plastic ones are better tbh.
this! and as said above you can hacksaw them off in seconds if the bolts stick.
Posts: 113
Threads: 5
Joined: May 2015
Reputation:
1
Location: Nonthaburi
Car Model/Spec: 306 GTI-6
Thanks: 0
Given 7 thank(s) in 7 post(s)
The OE spec are 300 mm as standard and can work well by standard suspension.
But, when lowering you may need to throw them off too early, I use to found the noise problem from lwr arm hitting with ard and bending droplink after a lowering around 2"
Currently, the problem disappeared by the metal adjustable drop link ( 260 mm)
1999 306 GTI-6 PT81 & Remapping
2000 406 SRI 2.0 Turbo 6M/T @ 1 Bar Boosted
Posts: 117
Threads: 7
Joined: Apr 2015
Reputation:
1
Location: devon
Car Model/Spec: 306 HDI
Thanks: 2
Given 1 thank(s) in 1 post(s)
Country:
why do we need shorter ones if car lowered ? as the mounting point on shock is still at same height. or is it just personal choice ?
Posts: 449
Threads: 21
Joined: Mar 2014
Reputation:
3
Location: Ireland
Car Model/Spec: Stage 3 HDi
Thanks: 2
Given 5 thank(s) in 4 post(s)
You need longer ones if its lowered not shorter
Posts: 19,854
Threads: 581
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
195
Location: Bournemouth
Car Model/Spec: Supercharged 306 GTi6
Thanks: 36
Given 82 thank(s) in 78 post(s)
The anti roll bar is in a fixed place with limited torsional movement. If you lower the car the distance between the shock mounting point and the anti roll bar mounting point increases putting strain on the links and eventually breaking them.
Team Eaton
1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
Posts: 2,607
Threads: 136
Joined: Jun 2013
Reputation:
11
Location: Basingstoke/Reading
Car Model/Spec: 306 hdi stage 2 & 205 DTI
Thanks: 6
Given 39 thank(s) in 39 post(s)
But the bar swings upwards as one.
It's not as though the ARB is fixed. It moves up and down like it would of you were driving
If you undone both bottom nuts on the ARB, you could pull down on the ARB and the whole thing would move down wards
Posts: 19,854
Threads: 581
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
195
Location: Bournemouth
Car Model/Spec: Supercharged 306 GTi6
Thanks: 36
Given 82 thank(s) in 78 post(s)
Dont forget though, where the ARB sits in its rubber mounts, its notched (well should be!) and so are the mounts so it can only sit in one place within them mounts. Hence why yes you can move it up and down (which the movement in the rubber allows you to do) but not by much otherwise you'd be able to swing it 360 degrees if it wasn't for the fact it would hit things.
Team Eaton
1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
Posts: 3,539
Threads: 42
Joined: Mar 2012
Reputation:
28
Thanks: 3
Given 89 thank(s) in 88 post(s)
you can swing it 360 if it didn't hit things.
the only reason you need to alter the length of the drop link is to leave the arb at the same angle as originally intended, so you get the same level of roll resistance.
the arb will still work perfectly fine within the full travel of the damper unit.
Posts: 1,950
Threads: 55
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
17
Location: Rotherham
Car Model/Spec: 406 V6
Thanks: 3
Given 10 thank(s) in 10 post(s)
You get more stress on the links the further the bar is from horizontal though, especially if your lowered suspension allows more bump travel because of shorter dampers.
And as Niall says, you want longer links for lower cars, not shorter ones.
Custom roll cages/shiny suspension bits/general fabrication work undertaken, PM me.
Top engine mount repair/reinforcement/chocking for cracked chassis and high powered cars, drive in, drive out, 2 hour turnaround.
Posts: 19,854
Threads: 581
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
195
Location: Bournemouth
Car Model/Spec: Supercharged 306 GTi6
Thanks: 36
Given 82 thank(s) in 78 post(s)
(03-08-2015, 06:58 PM)welshpug Wrote: you can swing it 360 if it didn't hit things.
the only reason you need to alter the length of the drop link is to leave the arb at the same angle as originally intended, so you get the same level of roll resistance.
the arb will still work perfectly fine within the full travel of the damper unit.
I thought they were notched? Maybe I'm thinking of a different car.
Team Eaton
1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
Posts: 2,607
Threads: 136
Joined: Jun 2013
Reputation:
11
Location: Basingstoke/Reading
Car Model/Spec: 306 hdi stage 2 & 205 DTI
Thanks: 6
Given 39 thank(s) in 39 post(s)
They have a ball shape on the bar on one side (same as a 205 I believe) and the bushe has a call shape in it to match
Posts: 347
Threads: 42
Joined: May 2013
Reputation:
2
Location: London
Car Model/Spec: Astor GTi6 P3
Thanks: 14
Given 2 thank(s) in 2 post(s)
(03-08-2015, 07:29 PM)Paul_13 Wrote: They have a ball shape on the bar on one side (same as a 205 I believe) and the bushe has a call shape in it to match
yup I can vouch for that, as changed my brushes when the engine was out.
Posts: 83
Threads: 18
Joined: May 2015
Reputation:
0
Location: Grantham
Car Model/Spec: 306 2.0 HDI
Thanks: 1
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vie...ID=EBAY-GB
Anyone had experience with these? Looking to drop my car by 40mm
Posts: 113
Threads: 5
Joined: May 2015
Reputation:
1
Location: Nonthaburi
Car Model/Spec: 306 GTI-6
Thanks: 0
Given 7 thank(s) in 7 post(s)
05-08-2015, 03:41 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-08-2015, 03:49 PM by maxzy.
Edit Reason: Alphabet missing
)
The length of droplinks are depend on the suspension set that you fitted, Some coil-over set (Like a D2 or K-Sport) when adjusted to lower about 2-3" the position of the droplink joint at Shock absorber cylinder will move lower too, And will cause to the ARB to touch with LWR arm.
In some case, If you fitted the Bilstein B8, OEM Absorber or another suspension kit with Lowering spring that can't adjust the position of joint position at Shock absorber cylinder, You need to find the longer Droplink.
(05-08-2015, 01:49 PM)306rhys Wrote: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vie...ID=EBAY-GB
Anyone had experience with these? Looking to drop my car by 40mm
I ordered the droplink from him also, Currently in use without any problems.
1999 306 GTI-6 PT81 & Remapping
2000 406 SRI 2.0 Turbo 6M/T @ 1 Bar Boosted
Posts: 83
Threads: 18
Joined: May 2015
Reputation:
0
Location: Grantham
Car Model/Spec: 306 2.0 HDI
Thanks: 1
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
Maxxy is that your set up in the picture? It says in the description that you need to state desired length bolt to bolt, do you know what you ordered?
Posts: 113
Threads: 5
Joined: May 2015
Reputation:
1
Location: Nonthaburi
Car Model/Spec: 306 GTI-6
Thanks: 0
Given 7 thank(s) in 7 post(s)
(05-08-2015, 06:40 PM)306rhys Wrote: Maxxy is that your set up in the picture? It says in the description that you need to state desired length bolt to bolt, do you know what you ordered?
Yes, the picture was my car.
The length of droplink that i ordered were 280 mm. (Up to your suspension kit and set up)
I ordered from him due to above reason, please measuring the desire length from your actual car when it parking on the surface plane and they can be adjust to more or less a little bit.
1999 306 GTI-6 PT81 & Remapping
2000 406 SRI 2.0 Turbo 6M/T @ 1 Bar Boosted
|