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Crank pulley
#1
Has anyone had experiance with febi crank pullys as soon as i change one 10 mins laters its rattling again i was going to put a solid pulley from a 307 hdi on but was advised not to without a clutched alternator as it mite throw belt off not sure what else to try at the min
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#2
It will be fine with a solid one. Loads of people do it. I even do it for customers of mine. Never had an issue not once.
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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#3
Two threads down...

http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=29832
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
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#4
So you have never experienced a aux belt coming off from a solid pulley not sure why a clutched alternator would be needed tbh and have you ever heard of a febi pulley start rattling ten mins after fitting thank you for replys
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#5
How many times have you changed it?

Seems strange that it would die again so soon, are you 100% sure that it is the pulley that was the rattle in the first place and not one of the tensioners?
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#6
(26-03-2015, 08:07 PM)titch Wrote: How many times have you changed it?

Seems strange that it would die again so soon, are you 100% sure that it is the pulley that was the rattle in the first place and not one of the tensioners?

I noticed it when i first bought the car so i changed it and it started again after i got off the motorway the next day i removed it and it dident seem to be at fault so after a coulle of hard hit with the palm of my hand i could hear it knock took it back to my supplier and he changed it today i put it on the car its not as loud but you can hear it as you get above 3000 rpm its getting annoying know not so much the noise thats bothering me its what if it lets go when im far from home. Oh both units have been febi
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#7
Whats the noise like, and did you tension the belt back up correctly after you fitted it ,using the manual tensioner and then releasing the spring loaded one?

It just seems strange that you had the noise you have fitted 2 new pulleys and you still have the noise maybe the noise is something else.
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#8
I agree with titch even though i'm a newbie from what I have read even the cheap aftermarket ones last 10k miles. It maybe the auto tensioner making the noise?
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#9
(26-03-2015, 08:39 PM)td163 Wrote: I agree with titch even though i'm a newbie from what I have read even the cheap aftermarket ones last 10k miles. It maybe the auto tensioner making the noise?

Brand new auto tensioner brand new manual tentioner recon alternator aircon delete in my opinion it defo the crank pulley making the noise. But what else do you think could make that sort ov noise cars done 130000 miles so i woulnt think it could be anything internaly wrong
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#10
Did you tension the belt first using the manual tensioner and then the spring loaded one ?
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#11
(26-03-2015, 08:52 PM)titch Wrote: Did you tension the belt first using the manual tensioner and then the spring loaded one ?

No i did not i ended ul removing the manual tensioner because the noise was worse with it on but i dis not know that you have to tighten up the manual tensioner first could this be where the noise it coming from
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#12
(26-03-2015, 08:58 PM)Steve1990 Wrote:
(26-03-2015, 08:52 PM)titch Wrote: Did you tension the belt first using the manual tensioner and then the spring loaded one ?

No i did not i ended ul removing the manual tensioner because the noise was worse with it on but i dis not know that you have to tighten up the manual tensioner first could this be where the noise it coming from

You need to tighten up the belt using the manual tensioner, holding the centre and using the 1/4" square hole to rotate it as it is off centre.
Once the belt is tight nip up the bolt on the manual tensioner then release the spring loaded one and all should be good.

If you don't tighten up the belt with the manual one first and just have the tension of the spring loaded one its not enough and the noise will be the spring loaded tensioner bouncing off its internal stops.

I had the same thing happen as i didn't tighten the belt up enough first with the manual tensioner.

http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=11890
Worth a go and see if it sorts your problem out. 
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#13
Ok will try this after work tomorrow hopefully will sort it thank you to all your replies
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#14
Just to update thread tightening the bottom tensioner up first did not make any differance to the noise but while the belt was off i started it and reved it and it made no noise. Seems wierd that it only does it when belts on but everything is new down there dont understand it just orded another crank pully but a differant make to the ones iv alredy replaced see if that cures it
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#15
Did you lock off the auto-tensioner before adjusting the manual tensioner? Tbf if the belt's been bouncing all this time it could have knackered the auto-tensioner.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
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#16
Yeah as Poodle says, release the tension from the auto tensioner and lock it off, tighten the belt with the manual tensioner and then release the auto tensioner.
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#17
I locked the the auto tensioner off and tuick slack up with the manual tensioner then released the auto tensioner you can see the auto tensioner bouncing a bit when you rev it but i am nearly posotive that its the crank pulley again i would fit a solid one but dont fancy a belt jumping off witch is what ive been told will happen
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#18
I really can't see a brand new Pulley failing after a hour or two even if it is a old style one with the known failures. The odds are very very rare even the crappy ones last quite a few months before making the noise again.

Maybe get a spanner on the auto tensioner and put a bit of pressure on it (lightly pull towards yourself) and get someone to rev the car see if the noise disappears? With you on the spanner it will stop the tensioner from moving and making noise if that's the part that's failing.
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#19
(27-03-2015, 08:06 PM)Steve1990 Wrote: i would fit a solid one but dont fancy a belt jumping off witch is what ive been told will happen

Don't believe everything you're told/read!

I've not heard of belts jumping off with solid pulleys at all... The pulley may have had a manufacturing fault, so don't discount it just because it's new. You really need to check it carefully before deciding what to do next.
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#20
I will try that with the spanner on the tensioner and after that i think it will b solid pulley if no one ever heard of a belt been thrown off im no stranger to engine but i am absaloutly stumped by this l. I was told that if i fit a solid pully without a clutched alternator it would throw it off because there was nothing to dampen it but i thought the the auto tensioner would act as a dampener anyway could be wrong.
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#21
put a new belt on it and re-tension the manual tensioner belts probably fecked!
solid pulleys tend to eat belts in my experience but its cheaper to change a belt once a year than a pulley that goes wanky
ive got solid lynx pulleys on 2 HDI engine i run here

when i say eats belts the belt ribs ware thin or it may just be the pulley has sharp rib tips

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/
GTI6 Info

Don’t drive faster than your guardian angel can fly.

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#22
Sweet cheers lads think im just going to go solid pulley if the auto tensioner isnt naked i can cope with changing belt evrey year or so
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#23
The lynx pulleys seem to cause a lot of problems with aux belts, but the more solid 307-type pulleys are fine as far as i've seen. They're not really solid tbf.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
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#24
What do you mean not really solid is there a rubber ring in middle like on the xud
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#25
They still have some rubber in them, that's the whole point of them - to act as damping, wouldn't work if it was all metal. It's just a longer-lived design than the oem ones.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#26
so are we saying that the 307 crank pulley is the best compromise, a pug oe ( oe on a 307 ) one or a pattern one??

part numbers and prices would be good also what size of drive belt for with air con and without air con please.

Anyone done this conversion ( 307 without air con ) and how is it doing. Pics of drive belt route would be good also.

the crank pulley air con removal money jar is nearly full.

thanks, as ever, brilliant forum.
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#27
Try reading the thread i linked a few posts previously.

Essentially, yes, it's the best compromise.There are several people on here usong it successfully amd have been for some time. Your motor factors should be able to supply the correct length belt, i don't know the sizes off the top of my head. If you've removed the aircon, but not used the non-aircon aux routing then you'll need a 6pk1175 (gates part numher).

We really should put this lot in a guide...
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#28
(31-03-2015, 05:30 AM)Poodle Wrote: We really should put this lot in a guide...

I second that, Ive seen a lot of talk about these solid pulleys. Pros and cons though. A lot of questions could be answered in a guide Big Grin
1. Wouldn't the dampened one reduce vibration making a softer run?
2. Do solid ones shread belts?
3. How do i take it off?
4. Does my bum look big in this....?
etc.

I might do a guide and comparison when I get the time and money Big Grin
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#29
yes a guide with feed back as to effectiveness and durability would be very good......and yes I do have a big bum Blush
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#30
Tried a new pulley and admitedly is was a cheap one but thats now gone aswell been told crank could b f*cked anyone else heard of this ?
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