07-12-2011, 09:49 PM
Right here is my guide for building a hybrid 11mm Bosch pump.
You will need:
Transit Bosch pump with 414 in the product code (Parts needed: Head, plunger and return springs - everything shown following step "9". (minus delivery valves))
Pug Bosch pump with 494 in the product code - make sure you dont get the 406 semi ecu controlled pump. Best donors are: 306, Citroen ZX & Xantia (Parts needed: Main pump body and delivery valves)
Seal kit http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BOSCH-VE-Turbodies...500wt_1156
First thing to do is get yourself a clean work area preferably not on a cream carpet like I have just ruined!
![[Image: sam0853r.jpg]](http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/4017/sam0853r.jpg)
Put your pug pump to one side to start with and letâ??s get stripping the tranny pump.
1. Remove the throttle arm, fuel banjo and any idle screws that are obstructing access to the 4 allen bolts that hold the top on the pump.
![[Image: sam0852n.jpg]](http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/783/sam0852n.jpg)
2. Remove the high pressure fuel line that connects the bottom of the pump to the top. At this point a worrying red liquid came out that smelt like diesel.............
3. I undid the max fuel screw so that it was hanging on by one thread; this removes some tension from the governor tension lever.
4. Undo and remove the 4 allen bolts securing the top of the pump.
5. VERY carefully remove the top of the pump while ensuring that the governor slides out of its slot cleanly.
![[Image: sam0854u.jpg]](http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/8618/sam0854u.jpg)
![[Image: sam0855m.jpg]](http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/3213/sam0855m.jpg)
6. Next you will need an old ½ inch socket and modify it to fit the triangle bolts on either side of the pump. Once these are out wiggle the governor tension leaver and remove it.
![[Image: sam0857.jpg]](http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/5599/sam0857.jpg)
7. Remove the 2 springs that were pushing against it (although by now they are probably in the bottom of the pump somewhere!
![[Image: sam0858k.jpg]](http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/1683/sam0858k.jpg)
8. Now itâ??s time to remove the bit you need for your pug pump, the head assembly. Undo the torx screws on the end; I did 1 turn on each one at a time to avoid putting stress on the last bolt. The head will (should) start to slide out at this point due to the tension from the springs inside. Once all of the bolts are out, in my case there was only 2 but you may have more going through a bracket of some sort.
9. Extract the head, this is one part where it will all just seem to collapse on itself, the camplate and the rollers will all go everywhere and the plunger and springs will also separate from itself. Put all the head components back together and set it all to one side for now. The picture below shows everything needed for your hybrid pump minus the delivery valves.
![[Image: sam0903g.jpg]](http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/6438/sam0903g.jpg)
![[Image: sam0902.jpg]](http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/1285/sam0902.jpg)
10. Itâ??s time to start operating on your pug pump now. Principles are very similar to the transit one. Remove throttle arm, idle screws, etc. On this pump as you undo the max fuel screw mark its position so you know where to put it back to.
![[Image: sam0904w.jpg]](http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/8964/sam0904w.jpg)
11. Undo the 4 allen bolts and lift the top slightly away from the pump and again very carefully allow the governor to unclip itself from its slot and then unclip the little spring from the hot/cold idle as well.
![[Image: sam0905y.jpg]](http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/2162/sam0905y.jpg)
12. You will then need your specially made new triangle socket again to remove those bolts on either side.
13. Remove the Governor lever assembly and the springs. The pug one was very tricky to get out so I slackened off the bolts 1 turn on each holding the head on to remove some tension, it then came out nicely.
14. Undo the head bolts and remove any brackets as well.
15. Remove the head. Just as with the tranny pump it will probably all implode in on itself at this point.
![[Image: sam0907i.jpg]](http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/7030/sam0907i.jpg)
16. Assuming like mine it all fell to pieces when the head came out reassemble all of the rollers taking note that the washers for the rollers are slightly concaved, these should be on the outside of each roller and match the roundness of the pump. Put the cross coupling back in with its spring. Then replace the camplate making sure that the dowel is facing the same direction as the woodruff key on the shaft (very important or the pump will be 180* out).
![[Image: sam0909.jpg]](http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4052/sam0909.jpg)
![[Image: sam0910t.jpg]](http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/4999/sam0910t.jpg)
![[Image: sam0908v.jpg]](http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7391/sam0908v.jpg)
17. This is one of the first fiddly bits, you need to insert the transit head into the pug pump without everything falling apart. I found that by holding the main pump body very slightly upright so that the camplate stays in position carefully insert the head making sure that the dowel on the camplate aligns with the cut out on the top of the plunger.
18. Bolt the head down with 2 bolts in diagonal corners.
19. Replace the triangle bolts in just part way so that you can see the ends of the screw when looking into the pump.
20. The governor support springs now need to be replaced. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to get them in place.
21. The Governor tension leaver now needs to be put back into its position with its support springs that you have just put in pushing against it. At the same time the dowel on the bottom of the gov leaver need to insert into the hole on the control collar on the plunger. Another fiddly bit, you will find now that you will keep trapping the springs as you push it in. As removal, slacken off the 2 head bolts that you put in by a turn or 2, but donâ??t let the bugger pop off! I kept on losing a spring or 2 into the bottom of the pump, you will need in my opinion the single most useful tool for working on a car, a telescopic magnet! After much faffing it will be in! Now you will need to relocate the triangle bolts into their holes on the leaver. Re tighten the torx head bolts. Thatâ??s a hard bit done!! Put this to one side as it is now time to do your â??gov modâ?!
![[Image: sam0912.jpg]](http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/9977/sam0912.jpg)
22. Take the top off your pump and turn it upside down to reveal the governor assembly in its cradle.
![[Image: sam0906d.jpg]](http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/4337/sam0906d.jpg)
23. Carefully slide the governor out of its cradle. A lot of people have problems at this point, some have broken the shaft or snapped the cradle, Mine popped out with no problems at all although still be gentle.
![[Image: sam0914r.jpg]](http://img860.imageshack.us/img860/5931/sam0914r.jpg)
24. What you now need to do is add tension to the main spring. Most people will shim it with a washer (internal diameter 3mm, outer diameter 5mm) although I was all out so I dug through my toolbox and found a nut with a washer attached, perfect.
25. This bit is another bit where I am guessing people have broken something. You need to push the spring down to locate the circlip on the top, call in your needle nose pliers again and pop it off the carefully let the spring decompress.
![[Image: sam0915.jpg]](http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/5289/sam0915.jpg)
26. Remove your spring and slide on your washers, there seems to be no set amount to do here but 3-6mm seems to be norm. The nut I had found was 4mm long so that seems fine to me.
27. Replace you spring
28. Place the end piece on the top.
29. You will now need to slide the shaft back through the spring and end piece and replace the circlip. Sounds simple enough but I ended up with VERY sore fingers and twice it all popped of and shot across the room and once shot me clean in the eye. (if you have protective goggles I would recommend them for this bit!!!! Lol
![[Image: sam0916j.jpg]](http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/8144/sam0916j.jpg)
30. Assuming youâ??re not in A&E explaining to the nurse what a governor is and how it ended up wedged up your nose, slide the governor back into its cradle. At this point rotate the shaft so that the groves are perpendicular to the pump.
![[Image: sam0917d.jpg]](http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/1868/sam0917d.jpg)
31. Last fiddly bit now the top needs to go back on the pump. Remember those groves on the governorâ??s shaft, those needs to locate into the slots on the top of the gov leaver and lock into place. Gently wiggle the top on and down but donâ??t force it, if it doesnâ??t want to go take it off reset its position and try again. Once itâ??s in bolt the thing down!
![[Image: sam0918h.jpg]](http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/8124/sam0918h.jpg)
32. Now all that needs to be done is put the throttle arm back on tbh this is can be quite trick getting the spring under tension but you can be a bit rougher with this and brute force will prevail!
33. Bolt back on all your brackets and anything else you removed at the start. Your max fuel screw which you slackened right off like before just need screwing in, I did mine at a very conservative (lean) setting as I would rather that it failed to start than ran away and put your pistons through the bonnet on first start!
34. Last thing to do is swap over the delivery valves so that you are using the pug ones. I am not sure if these have to be in a specific order so I did one at a time to be on the safe side. They take a 14mm socket and are pretty tight although nothing that a good size bar canâ??t handle.
35. Congratulations!!!! You now have your 11mm hybrid pump
![[Image: sam0921.jpg]](http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/5679/sam0921.jpg)
![[Image: sam0922c.jpg]](http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/8944/sam0922c.jpg)
NOTE: On first start have the car in 5th with the clutch in so that if the engine runs away you can stall it quickly
I think that is it! I have missed anything out let me know and I will add it in. I followed a rebuild guide in parts when I was replacing the seals, it has been posted up on the forum, it is for the non turbo 9mm head but a lot of detailed info, link at bottom. It is also worth noting that I am sure there are some shortcuts that can be taken when doing this but I am just sharing the way that I have done it but please feel free to post anything up that will be useful for others to follow.
Credits to people who I have used information from
Padge
Ruan
DarrenJLobb
Mark_Airey
Bosch_VE_Rules
i'm sure there is more names to add and i'm sorry if i messed anyone out but it is now 1am and i've been writing this up for about 3 hours!
http://gnarlodious.com/Vanagon/Bosch_Pump/-Rebuild.html
You will need:
Transit Bosch pump with 414 in the product code (Parts needed: Head, plunger and return springs - everything shown following step "9". (minus delivery valves))
Pug Bosch pump with 494 in the product code - make sure you dont get the 406 semi ecu controlled pump. Best donors are: 306, Citroen ZX & Xantia (Parts needed: Main pump body and delivery valves)
Seal kit http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BOSCH-VE-Turbodies...500wt_1156
First thing to do is get yourself a clean work area preferably not on a cream carpet like I have just ruined!
Put your pug pump to one side to start with and letâ??s get stripping the tranny pump.
1. Remove the throttle arm, fuel banjo and any idle screws that are obstructing access to the 4 allen bolts that hold the top on the pump.
2. Remove the high pressure fuel line that connects the bottom of the pump to the top. At this point a worrying red liquid came out that smelt like diesel.............
3. I undid the max fuel screw so that it was hanging on by one thread; this removes some tension from the governor tension lever.
4. Undo and remove the 4 allen bolts securing the top of the pump.
5. VERY carefully remove the top of the pump while ensuring that the governor slides out of its slot cleanly.
6. Next you will need an old ½ inch socket and modify it to fit the triangle bolts on either side of the pump. Once these are out wiggle the governor tension leaver and remove it.
7. Remove the 2 springs that were pushing against it (although by now they are probably in the bottom of the pump somewhere!
8. Now itâ??s time to remove the bit you need for your pug pump, the head assembly. Undo the torx screws on the end; I did 1 turn on each one at a time to avoid putting stress on the last bolt. The head will (should) start to slide out at this point due to the tension from the springs inside. Once all of the bolts are out, in my case there was only 2 but you may have more going through a bracket of some sort.
9. Extract the head, this is one part where it will all just seem to collapse on itself, the camplate and the rollers will all go everywhere and the plunger and springs will also separate from itself. Put all the head components back together and set it all to one side for now. The picture below shows everything needed for your hybrid pump minus the delivery valves.
10. Itâ??s time to start operating on your pug pump now. Principles are very similar to the transit one. Remove throttle arm, idle screws, etc. On this pump as you undo the max fuel screw mark its position so you know where to put it back to.
11. Undo the 4 allen bolts and lift the top slightly away from the pump and again very carefully allow the governor to unclip itself from its slot and then unclip the little spring from the hot/cold idle as well.
12. You will then need your specially made new triangle socket again to remove those bolts on either side.
13. Remove the Governor lever assembly and the springs. The pug one was very tricky to get out so I slackened off the bolts 1 turn on each holding the head on to remove some tension, it then came out nicely.
14. Undo the head bolts and remove any brackets as well.
15. Remove the head. Just as with the tranny pump it will probably all implode in on itself at this point.
16. Assuming like mine it all fell to pieces when the head came out reassemble all of the rollers taking note that the washers for the rollers are slightly concaved, these should be on the outside of each roller and match the roundness of the pump. Put the cross coupling back in with its spring. Then replace the camplate making sure that the dowel is facing the same direction as the woodruff key on the shaft (very important or the pump will be 180* out).
17. This is one of the first fiddly bits, you need to insert the transit head into the pug pump without everything falling apart. I found that by holding the main pump body very slightly upright so that the camplate stays in position carefully insert the head making sure that the dowel on the camplate aligns with the cut out on the top of the plunger.
18. Bolt the head down with 2 bolts in diagonal corners.
19. Replace the triangle bolts in just part way so that you can see the ends of the screw when looking into the pump.
20. The governor support springs now need to be replaced. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to get them in place.
21. The Governor tension leaver now needs to be put back into its position with its support springs that you have just put in pushing against it. At the same time the dowel on the bottom of the gov leaver need to insert into the hole on the control collar on the plunger. Another fiddly bit, you will find now that you will keep trapping the springs as you push it in. As removal, slacken off the 2 head bolts that you put in by a turn or 2, but donâ??t let the bugger pop off! I kept on losing a spring or 2 into the bottom of the pump, you will need in my opinion the single most useful tool for working on a car, a telescopic magnet! After much faffing it will be in! Now you will need to relocate the triangle bolts into their holes on the leaver. Re tighten the torx head bolts. Thatâ??s a hard bit done!! Put this to one side as it is now time to do your â??gov modâ?!
22. Take the top off your pump and turn it upside down to reveal the governor assembly in its cradle.
23. Carefully slide the governor out of its cradle. A lot of people have problems at this point, some have broken the shaft or snapped the cradle, Mine popped out with no problems at all although still be gentle.
24. What you now need to do is add tension to the main spring. Most people will shim it with a washer (internal diameter 3mm, outer diameter 5mm) although I was all out so I dug through my toolbox and found a nut with a washer attached, perfect.
25. This bit is another bit where I am guessing people have broken something. You need to push the spring down to locate the circlip on the top, call in your needle nose pliers again and pop it off the carefully let the spring decompress.
26. Remove your spring and slide on your washers, there seems to be no set amount to do here but 3-6mm seems to be norm. The nut I had found was 4mm long so that seems fine to me.
27. Replace you spring
28. Place the end piece on the top.
29. You will now need to slide the shaft back through the spring and end piece and replace the circlip. Sounds simple enough but I ended up with VERY sore fingers and twice it all popped of and shot across the room and once shot me clean in the eye. (if you have protective goggles I would recommend them for this bit!!!! Lol
30. Assuming youâ??re not in A&E explaining to the nurse what a governor is and how it ended up wedged up your nose, slide the governor back into its cradle. At this point rotate the shaft so that the groves are perpendicular to the pump.
31. Last fiddly bit now the top needs to go back on the pump. Remember those groves on the governorâ??s shaft, those needs to locate into the slots on the top of the gov leaver and lock into place. Gently wiggle the top on and down but donâ??t force it, if it doesnâ??t want to go take it off reset its position and try again. Once itâ??s in bolt the thing down!
32. Now all that needs to be done is put the throttle arm back on tbh this is can be quite trick getting the spring under tension but you can be a bit rougher with this and brute force will prevail!
33. Bolt back on all your brackets and anything else you removed at the start. Your max fuel screw which you slackened right off like before just need screwing in, I did mine at a very conservative (lean) setting as I would rather that it failed to start than ran away and put your pistons through the bonnet on first start!
34. Last thing to do is swap over the delivery valves so that you are using the pug ones. I am not sure if these have to be in a specific order so I did one at a time to be on the safe side. They take a 14mm socket and are pretty tight although nothing that a good size bar canâ??t handle.
35. Congratulations!!!! You now have your 11mm hybrid pump
NOTE: On first start have the car in 5th with the clutch in so that if the engine runs away you can stall it quickly
I think that is it! I have missed anything out let me know and I will add it in. I followed a rebuild guide in parts when I was replacing the seals, it has been posted up on the forum, it is for the non turbo 9mm head but a lot of detailed info, link at bottom. It is also worth noting that I am sure there are some shortcuts that can be taken when doing this but I am just sharing the way that I have done it but please feel free to post anything up that will be useful for others to follow.
Credits to people who I have used information from
Padge
Ruan
DarrenJLobb
Mark_Airey
Bosch_VE_Rules
i'm sure there is more names to add and i'm sorry if i messed anyone out but it is now 1am and i've been writing this up for about 3 hours!
http://gnarlodious.com/Vanagon/Bosch_Pump/-Rebuild.html
![[Image: sigi-2.png]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk226/darrenjlobb/sigi-2.png)
![[Image: P1060836_zpsz3xgxt7q.jpg]](http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g427/wingnutz2/P1060836_zpsz3xgxt7q.jpg)
