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20-01-2015, 12:28 AM
(This post was last modified: 20-01-2015, 12:31 AM by Nathan1305.)
So I will be fitting a Bosch pump and intercooler at the end of the month but need a way of mounting the intercooler. So my question is does anyone have any brackets to mount it? If not I was thinking of using this and making my own :)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/271465566...0&ff14=108
This is the type of brackets I need
[attachment=21216]
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Should be fine mate, pretty certain that's what we used on ours or at least something very similar
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(20-01-2015, 09:28 AM)Midnightclub Wrote: Should be fine mate, pretty certain that's what we used on ours or at least something very similar
Cool I'll get some of that ordered soon
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Proper job do loads of little L and straight brackets that are a few pence each that are stronger due to not being ally. Worth a shout as your in Bristol you must know about Proper Job..
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I also made a lower bracket that mounted on the lower slam panel. (Where the bumper tabs mount) as i found it wasnt supported enough with just the top and swung back and forth abit
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(21-01-2015, 09:50 AM)silverzx Wrote: Proper job do loads of little L and straight brackets that are a few pence each that are stronger due to not being ally. Worth a shout as your in Bristol you must know about Proper Job..
Genuinely never heard of them haha I'll give them a call and see what they got
(21-01-2015, 10:35 AM)puglove Wrote: I also made a lower bracket that mounted on the lower slam panel. (Where the bumper tabs mount) as i found it wasnt supported enough with just the top and swung back and forth abit
Yeah I was going to have two brackets at the top and two at the bottom
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(21-01-2015, 10:50 AM)Nathan1305 Wrote: (21-01-2015, 09:50 AM)silverzx Wrote: Proper job do loads of little L and straight brackets that are a few pence each that are stronger due to not being ally. Worth a shout as your in Bristol you must know about Proper Job..
Genuinely never heard of them haha I'll give them a call and see what they got
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Got a few brackets they didn't have any long straight ones so if I need them I will heat the big L bracket and bend it straight
[attachment=21235]
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21-01-2015, 02:23 PM
(This post was last modified: 21-01-2015, 02:23 PM by silverzx.)
(21-01-2015, 02:15 PM)Nathan1305 Wrote: Got a few brackets they didn't have any long straight ones so if I need them I will heat the big L bracket and bend it straight
That's the jobby! Can bore the holes out too if need be and join them together!
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(21-01-2015, 02:23 PM)silverzx Wrote: (21-01-2015, 02:15 PM)Nathan1305 Wrote: Got a few brackets they didn't have any long straight ones so if I need them I will heat the big L bracket and bend it straight
That's the jobby! Can bore the holes out too if need be and join them together!
Can't wait to get it all fitted end of the month
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Personally wouldn't go with aluminium brackets due to their strength after you;ve bent them they can fracture making them more difficult to work with/correct/customise as you build your car.
Strips of steel would have been better as you can then pretty much bend them as many times as you like until it fits your car perfectly, but they should be fine anyway none the less.
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Here's wat I used buddy steel for the straights then good thick L bracket in aluminum :-) hope this helps
[attachment=21238][attachment=21239]
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(21-01-2015, 10:38 PM)Dave Wrote: Personally wouldn't go with aluminium brackets due to their strength after you;ve bent them they can fracture making them more difficult to work with/correct/customise as you build your car.
Strips of steel would have been better as you can then pretty much bend them as many times as you like until it fits your car perfectly, but they should be fine anyway none the less.
Yeah these brackets I got are steel I believe
(22-01-2015, 01:12 AM)pioneer DJ paddy Wrote: Here's wat I used buddy steel for the straights then good thick L bracket in aluminum :-) hope this helps
That's great thank you gives me a better use of where to mount them
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(22-01-2015, 08:35 AM)silverzx Wrote: Yeah, they're steel.
Sweet Will be fun trying to work out where the pipes go
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(22-01-2015, 08:52 AM)Nathan1305 Wrote: (22-01-2015, 08:35 AM)silverzx Wrote: Yeah, they're steel.
Sweet Will be fun trying to work out where the pipes go
If I've learnt anything about FMIC'ing cars it's that planning can only get you so far. Having the pipes in the bay and playing with routes with all the front end off etc is the best way to do it. If you've seen a setup you like, try copy it as best you can.
Also popping the slam panel and bumper over now and then is useful as you can see how much of the bumper will need butchering.
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(23-01-2015, 02:57 PM)silverzx Wrote: (22-01-2015, 08:52 AM)Nathan1305 Wrote: (22-01-2015, 08:35 AM)silverzx Wrote: Yeah, they're steel.
Sweet Will be fun trying to work out where the pipes go
If I've learnt anything about FMIC'ing cars it's that planning can only get you so far. Having the pipes in the bay and playing with routes with all the front end off etc is the best way to do it. If you've seen a setup you like, try copy it as best you can.
Also popping the slam panel and bumper over now and then is useful as you can see how much of the bumper will need butchering.
Yeah I'll just jump in and give it a go
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(23-01-2015, 02:59 PM)Nathan1305 Wrote: (23-01-2015, 02:57 PM)silverzx Wrote: (22-01-2015, 08:52 AM)Nathan1305 Wrote: (22-01-2015, 08:35 AM)silverzx Wrote: Yeah, they're steel.
Sweet Will be fun trying to work out where the pipes go
If I've learnt anything about FMIC'ing cars it's that planning can only get you so far. Having the pipes in the bay and playing with routes with all the front end off etc is the best way to do it. If you've seen a setup you like, try copy it as best you can.
Also popping the slam panel and bumper over now and then is useful as you can see how much of the bumper will need butchering.
Yeah I'll just jump in and give it a go
Really leave a whole day for it. The worst thing that can happen is you start running out of time on a Sunday before work on Monday and end up bodging it or not doing it properly.
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(23-01-2015, 03:01 PM)silverzx Wrote: (23-01-2015, 02:59 PM)Nathan1305 Wrote: (23-01-2015, 02:57 PM)silverzx Wrote: (22-01-2015, 08:52 AM)Nathan1305 Wrote: (22-01-2015, 08:35 AM)silverzx Wrote: Yeah, they're steel.
Sweet Will be fun trying to work out where the pipes go
If I've learnt anything about FMIC'ing cars it's that planning can only get you so far. Having the pipes in the bay and playing with routes with all the front end off etc is the best way to do it. If you've seen a setup you like, try copy it as best you can.
Also popping the slam panel and bumper over now and then is useful as you can see how much of the bumper will need butchering.
Yeah I'll just jump in and give it a go
Really leave a whole day for it. The worst thing that can happen is you start running out of time on a Sunday before work on Monday and end up bodging it or not doing it properly.
Yeah was going to do it on a day off and prep it before like listening the number bolts and stuff so it makes it a lot easier
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What have you actually got then so far?
Intercooler?
Pipe kit?
Xantia manifold?
Inlet/Exhaust gasket?
Brackets?
Silicone reducers/bends?
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I know it's a HDi so slightly different, but it took us around 10 hours start to finish
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[attachment=21259]
I have this lot coming end of the month it came of a xud so hope it has everything I need
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To be honest, might as well use what you have, however I'm bored and feeling helpful...
A very crude image and only 2d but you should be able to workout happens happening from my project thread pic's and this diagram.
Definately not the best route, but works for me and I like it... All pipes are accesible and easily tightened except the turbo outlet one, but thats a b*tch however you decide to route it.
It requires:
(from turbo outlet to FMIC inlet)
2">2.25" 90 bend
2.25" straight length
2.25" 90* silicone bend
2.25" straight length
406 S shape FMIC pipe
2.25" straight length
2.25" 90* silicone bend
INTO FMIC INLET
(from FMIC outlet to engine inlet)
2.25" U bend silicone
2.25" straight length
2.25" silicone coupler
2.25" straight length
2.25" 90* silicone bend
2.25" 90* pipe
2.25" silicone coupler
2.25" straight length
2.25" 90* silicone bend
2.25" 45* pipe
2.25" silicone couple
INTO INLET
AS you can see, lots of bits, however it's tidy, certainly not a "bodge" such as some I've seen that run straight over the engine and fowl things including the bonnet and pipes themselves.
This all sits nicely and I had it all lying around from various builds.
In an ideal world you want minimal bends, as much pipe as possible (silicone is a weakness) and the shortest route possible.
Your kit looks quite good for those criteria, I'm sure it'll be fine!
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(23-01-2015, 03:48 PM)silverzx Wrote: To be honest, might as well use what you have, however I'm bored and feeling helpful...
A very crude image and only 2d but you should be able to workout happens happening from my project thread pic's and this diagram.
Definately not the best route, but works for me and I like it... All pipes are accesible and easily tightened except the turbo outlet one, but thats a b*tch however you decide to route it.
It requires:
(from turbo outlet to FMIC inlet)
2">2.25" 90 bend
2.25" straight length
2.25" 90* silicone bend
2.25" straight length
406 S shape FMIC pipe
2.25" straight length
2.25" 90* silicone bend
INTO FMIC INLET
(from FMIC outlet to engine inlet)
2.25" U bend silicone
2.25" straight length
2.25" silicone coupler
2.25" straight length
2.25" 90* silicone bend
2.25" 90* pipe
2.25" silicone coupler
2.25" straight length
2.25" 90* silicone bend
2.25" 45* pipe
2.25" silicone couple
INTO INLET
AS you can see, lots of bits, however it's tidy, certainly not a "bodge" such as some I've seen that run straight over the engine and fowl things including the bonnet and pipes themselves.
This all sits nicely and I had it all lying around from various builds.
In an ideal world you want minimal bends, as much pipe as possible (silicone is a weakness) and the shortest route possible.
Your kit looks quite good for those criteria, I'm sure it'll be fine!
That's awesome thank you I'll have a look when it arrives and see what will work easier guessing to do the pipes to the turbo it will be easier to do when I remove the manifold
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To be honest I'd be suprised if your kit actually came straight off the turbo outlet, most people use the shitty standard 2" "TMIC" silicone pipe and force a 2" pipe in it (which never fits properly, always pops out and rubs on the master cylinder).
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