thermostat opening temps...lower temp' stats?

[Piggy]

Am I right in saying that the xud stat opens around 88degrees??

and this being so...is there a lower temp stat that would fit...been tried?!

like 85 degrees?

[bigcheez2k3]

83 degrees I think they open. Although I have a brand new one and my car sits at around 79.

[Piggy]

mine sits around 79/80.

but get moving...ie boosting for a bit...it rushes towards 90...then gets worryingly close to 100. fans come in as should and does go down but I would like to slow the rush to hot a bit!

[zx_volcane]

Can't see how a lower temp stat would help, surely temps are rising past 90 and going up because system can't dissipate the heat, not because the stat isn't open.

Fans aren't likely to make a difference if you're moving with decent airflow either.

[Poodle]

I forget, is this fmic'd?

Also, how old is the radiator?

[Piggy]

rad isnt in best of shape.
hoping to pick up a nissens rad this weekend.

My thinking was the quicker the stat opens as the temp rises the quicker the rad can begin to get rid of all that heat!

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oh and yeah, FMIC

[Poodle]

Sounds like it's the rad that's the issue then, stats usually either work or don't lol.

[Piggy]

the stats working...didnt say it wasnt. Just curious when it opened and if I can get one to open sooner.
but if it opens at 83degrees then I'll get different rad on and see whats what

[Mattcheese31]

the stats working...didnt say it wasnt. Just curious when it opened and if I can get one to open sooner.
but if it opens at 83degrees then I'll get different rad on and see whats what

it should open at 83, however, my stat is buggered or the wrong one and doesn't open until 90 and then drops straight back to 80, keep meaning to change it but it kinda has a positive effect when running svo for obvious reasons, when i go big 'bine however i will change it, got a new one here waiting to go on lol . .

[cwspellowe]

mine sits around 79/80.

but get moving...ie boosting for a bit...it rushes towards 90...then gets worryingly close to 100. fans come in as should and does go down but I would like to slow the rush to hot a bit!

Are you monitoring your EGT's and EMP's? You've a lot of fuel and air going in, you sure you aren't cooking it?

My 10mm + '56 with a very restrictive exhaust mid section hits 7-800deg after a few hard pulls and the temps stay bang on 80deg the whole time. I've had rapid heating issues before when boosting though:

1. When the HG was on the way out, on the T2 and 9mm, 28psi, one or two pulls on the motorway would see temps jump up to 90+deg then back down again

2. Before i fitted the heater matrix hoses and gave it a properly thorough bleed, car would warm up, hit 90, back down to 75, then stable at about 80 until i hit boost a few times when they'd slowly rise to 90 and then back down again.

Forgive my ignorance but is the 2.1 an ally head too? As i'd be majorly worried if i was hitting 100deg regularly when on boost with the 1.9.

[Piggy]

exactly my worry, tiz an ally head.

hasnt got to 100 yet but got close once.

its still quite lean and only at 18psi at full chat.

and egt not yet wired in. new gauges arrived today.

but it only takes a few long hard pulls and rises to 90.

[cwspellowe]

What exhaust do you have? I've found temps do climb ever so slightly at high rpm and am putting it down to the lack of flow in the exhaust. It's a 2.5" elbow to 2.25" downpipe, but standard midbox which looks less than 1.75" in places.

[Ruan]

Lower temperature thermostats are only ever delaying the inevitable - you're only ever simply bringing the starting temperature that you start adding heat to the coolant - it's not able to dissipate heat any faster... It'll give you maybe another couple of seconds of on boost time before you bring the temperature to the same level....

This is half the issue with XUDs - you simply cannot remove enough heat from the head fast enough - even if you were to have a MASSIVE radiator - there's a delay between you putting it in the head from burning the fuel, to it going into the water, around the system and into the radiator... Peugeot gave up with Indirect injection even though it's a theoretically better technology because of this issue...

IMO you need a bigger radiator, higher flow water pump and make sure there are NO restrictions in the cooling system... I.e. peoples bodged hoses - the stock hoses seem to be near enough perfect as far as balance goes.

Make sure the thermostat actually works - I think I've had like 5 dodgy thermostats - buy genuine, I now just don't trust motorfactor parts!

[Dum-Dum]

I wouldnt go with a lower temp stat or youll never get it up to temp and they need heat to be efficient.


Get a nissens rad in and throw a bottle of water wetter in for good measure as it really is good stuff.

[Jimbo]

+1 for nissens rad heard they lower temps well.
Theyre alloy and obviously thicker too slightly

[Piggy]

picking up a nissens rad tomorrow.

water pump is ace design to be fair and huge on the 2.1.

both stats are new and good quality and are working find.
bottom hose may be a little narrow due to the join...but its not restrictive I would ssy

[cully]

HDI stat is 84c

[blinkyeatu]

im a noob to all this forum thing so sorry if this is wrong place etc.
ive just brought a 306dt and its running cold even if ive been out for an hour or so it doesnt push past 75 but generally sits around 70. possible related the engine idles at about 1050 which seems quite high. any advice greatly appreciated

[JamesPT]

IMO you need a bigger radiator, higher flow water pump and make sure there are NO restrictions in the cooling system... I.e. peoples bodged hoses - the stock hoses seem to be near enough perfect as far as balance goes.

Can you provide more info on where and what models to get a higher flow water pump? I've only ever seen stock replacements.

[PartyJas]

IMO you need a bigger radiator, higher flow water pump and make sure there are NO restrictions in the cooling system... I.e. peoples bodged hoses - the stock hoses seem to be near enough perfect as far as balance goes.

Can you provide more info on where and what models to get a higher flow water pump? I've only ever seen stock replacements.

Best bet would be an electronic pump. Mechanical pumps aren't very efficient at higher rpm and can cavatate the water.
An electric pump with a controller will adjust the flow according to the engine temp which also gets the engine up to operating temp quicker and will also keep flowing water after the engine is shut down to prevent hot spots.

Like this... clicky

[jammapic]

Piggy, have a look at my 306 XUD thread... I spent a lot of time and money working out how to keep the damn thing cool.

In the end, I managed to get the system to hold the temperature at 80c however you drove it, even on a track session for 15 minutes at a time.

JP

[silverzx]

Radge one of these on:

[2.1dturbo]

Mine is the same and I have a custom alloy rad,
In behind ur fuel pump have u a pipe coming out of the head or a blank plate with 2 bolts?
Mines blanked but if there's a pipe on it makes a serious difference

[Piggy]

Always kept it blank...may whip that on then, but will need the pipework hmmmm

[fatlapit]

u need a oil cooler

[Piggy]

This is an old thread fyi!

Sorted the issues. My issue now is it never goes above 80! Haha