Tom's TDCi Titanium X...

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Tom's TDCi Titanium X...
I had Sport BluResponses for 18k and quite liked them actually... Sadly my tracking wrecked them, they were doing OK until I wore off the inside edges, relatively good feedback... Thought they were better than the SportContact 5s I had on before which are a vastly more expensive tyre and lasted about the same...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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That's good to hear, kinda got myself set on them now lol. 18k sounds good as well, I guess that was with rotation. Only pair of tyres of owned long enough to wear out were the T1-Rs, but they really didn't last long at all! Will probably get tracking done at the same time tbh (watch out for a kidney in the for sale section lol). Not sure whether to do tracking before or after MOT though...on one hand I want it done asap after tyres are fitted, but on the other if MOT fails on a suspension/steering part then I'd have to have it done again after. Hmm... Confused

Also jinxed it saying the punctured hadn't deflated earlier, only checked them yesterday was still fine... Yet on the way out today the DDS warning popped up. Down to 23PSI when I got to the sainsburys air machine. Dodgy


But in other news, averaged 68.5mpg over the last 50 miles since filling up! Big Grin
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We've just gone through a pair of Bridgestone Potenza on our Mondeo TDCi estate in 10k...and yet someone with an ST220 got 20k out of them. Thinking of the Uniroyal RainSports next.
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68.5mpg is more like it!!
Wishes for more power...
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(06-11-2014, 11:10 PM)DavidA Wrote: We've just gone through a pair of Bridgestone Potenza on our Mondeo TDCi estate in 10k...and yet someone with an ST220 got 20k out of them. Thinking of the Uniroyal RainSports next.

If that's only on the front, I don't think it's all that bad! The T1Rs I had lasted less than that, not helped by 306s habit of chewing outer edges even when tracking straight. Confused

I've had Rainsport 2s and 3s - 3s are much better than the 2s, can't fault the wet grip at all tbh. But the sidewalls are still a bit soft. And for only a couple of quid extra per corner can get quite a few premium tyre choices.

(06-11-2014, 11:14 PM)Piggy Wrote: 68.5mpg is more like it!!

Yeah...but that won't last! Sad

It hasn't tried to regen since filling up yet. And I haven't driven on the dual carriageway yet. That's just town and B road.

I have a feeling on Monday when I do 30 miles of 70 it'll drop considerably... Dodgy
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(06-11-2014, 05:27 PM)Toms306 Wrote: That's good to hear, kinda got myself set on them now lol. 18k sounds good as well, I guess that was with rotation.

No rotation! That's on the front - hence being quite impressed!
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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Oh wow...in that case, definitely getting a set then!! Big Grin
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how much was it?
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Too much. But that's not really relevant.


Suppose I could update this though. MPG has gone down as expected, 58 average over 150 miles so far and still dropping. Sad

Anyway, still can't be 100% sure it's at fault but looks like I'm gonna change the DPF for an aftermarket one. Anything else I should do at the same time?

Think I'll do oil change (Mobil stuff designed to Ford spec) and OE filter. And EGR blank.

Not sure whether to check/remove the turbo feed banjo bolt gauze or not? Just seems like if it blocks, you're f*cked, and if you remove it and carbon gets up the turbo, you're f*cked. So might as well leave it rather than disturbing it?

Also, will top up the Eolys fluid at the same time.

Anyone know what happens after changing DPF and fluid? I can reset the additive counter and the DPF learned values with FORScan. Do I need to force a regen or anything? I guess not as there'll be nothing in it!

After that, will need tyres and tracking.

Then MOT in Janurary.


Hopefully after all that it won't need anything doing for a while! Confused
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There is a manual way of resetting the additive if your scanner doesnt work Wink
306oc Chat Wrote:15:30: Toms306 - :Genuinely thought it was gonna explode when I was playing with Sam
22:57: SRowell - :wtf why didnt you try harder to make me come!
[Image: connorsig.jpg]
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Yeah I've seen, something like opening the filler flap 50 times and fiddling with the ignition on and off. Fortunately FORScan appears to work well for everything else so far so hoping it does there as well.

Any idea if anything else needs resetting at the same time?
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Anyone know if the PSA oil filter is the same as the Ford one? They look the same but genuine PSA is cheaper than genuine Ford on ebay...


Also checked what functions FORScan has for the DPF/Eolys.

[attachment=20098]

So guess I have to 'refill additive'. Do I need to prime the additive system? Then reset DPF learned values. Then it says I do needs to force a static regen, though I can't see why. Confused

Looks like I'll be going with a BM Catalysts DPF.


Also, if I blank the EGR then do the EGR adaption reset, would that stop the EML coming on for it?
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Yes the filters are identical man.
You have to force re-gen after a re-fill its a safety thing more than anything. It assumes there is crap in there if its been run low. Stupid I know.
I've tried all sorts to get egr fooled on these. Always seems to know. Just get it mapped out man.
Hope that helps
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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Ah good, I'll grab a PSA filter then...save £3...that'll go a long way towards the DPF. lol

It says to force a regen after replacing the DPF, which I can't understand. Makes sense after re-filling the Eolys now you say it though. I'm only doing that 'while I'm there' sort of thing though, it's not actually low (or at least it's not throwing a code for it!).

I was wondering how simple it is to remove or disable the EGR in the map, wondered if it's something I could do myself or get very cheaply done by a mapper, rather than go for a whole power map which I just can't afford atm.
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Re-gening is just a safety man that's all. The car doesn't know you've put a new dpf on it. Some do but only fairly new ones.

Its going to be a whole map regardless. Maps got to be read and modified. Its up to you how much you want it fiddled with.
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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Tom I can put you in touch with Paul who did my Vectra if you'll venture to Woodbridge yet? He does remote if not? I'm sure he could do just the EGR/DPF if you don't want any performance. He's an extremely intelligent guy (he works at the huge BT place in Woodbridge as some sort of technical IT expert) lovely guy who will spend as long as it takes to perfect a map & prevent boost spikes etc.
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(14-11-2014, 08:07 PM)bashbarnard Wrote: Re-gening is just a safety man that's all. The car doesn't know you've put a new dpf on it. Some do but only fairly new ones.

Its going to be a whole map regardless. Maps got to be read and modified. Its up to you how much you want it fiddled with.

Yeah that's true, s'pose its only a couple of quid of diesel wasted...but some of it will be going into my fresh oil. Confused Unless I leave the oil change until after the regen I guess.

Reading the map is easy, I've already done that. Just wondered if there was literally an 'EGR map' that could be turned off in 5 minutes. Rather than have to alter loads of stuff throughout the maps.

(14-11-2014, 08:16 PM)JJ0063 Wrote: Tom I can put you in touch with Paul who did my Vectra if you'll venture to Woodbridge yet? He does remote if not? I'm sure he could do just the EGR/DPF if you don't want any performance. He's an extremely intelligent guy (he works at the huge BT place in Woodbridge as some sort of technical IT expert) lovely guy who will spend as long as it takes to perfect a map & prevent boost spikes etc.

Funny enough I was near there today, well past the BT offices anyway...my Dad used to work there though lol, shows you don't need to be intelligent to work there. lol

Problem is, due to the size and complexity of the map, it takes longer so costs more than older cars. I could probably spare a tenner to have the EGR taken off but I can't afford a power map atm...though maybe next year.
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Another vote for the dunlops here, i've recently replaced a pair of rs3s on the front of the 205 and even the missus commented on how much better the dunlops are, completely different league.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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Definitely set on the Dunlops now lol. Looks like just under £250 for a set fully fitted in 205/55/16. Not bad price imo....but can't afford them yet. MOT isn't until Jan anyway lol. Confused
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Are they only 15's? Wow!
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He means 16s lol
306oc Chat Wrote:15:30: Toms306 - :Genuinely thought it was gonna explode when I was playing with Sam
22:57: SRowell - :wtf why didnt you try harder to make me come!
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Damn, too slow editing... Tongue

Anyway, as this is technically a project thread, it could do with some pictures! Heres probably the most exciting mod I'll do to the Focus lol...

Cruise control upgrade!

Start with 3 spoke leather wheel

[Image: IMAG4167_zps20a08a96.jpg]

Pop off the top cowling

[Image: IMAG4168_zps9b54d9a2.jpg]

And fully remove it

[Image: IMAG4169_zpsc492c065.jpg]

Suddenly remember you should probably disconnect the battery before touching the airbag stuff... Itwasntme

Using a flat blade, twist the airbag spring clip and pull the airbag away from the wheel....much better design than the 306's torx screws lol.

[Image: IMAG4170_zps98f51883.jpg]

Pull airbag away

[Image: IMAG4171_zps19652396.jpg]

Disconnect airbag wires with much wincing...

[Image: IMAG4172_zps2bfd2a73.jpg]

Set the wheel straight and remove the key to apply steering lock. Remove 27mm bolt.

[Image: IMAG4173_zpsa246de46.jpg]

Disconnect horn plug with small flat blade

[Image: IMAG4174_zps770b1a9a.jpg]

Pull wheel off

[Image: IMAG4175_zps9836c7c7.jpg]

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Place new wheel, Loctite and torque the bolt to 48Nm.

[Image: IMAG4177_zps91e8b4a1.jpg]


Now, the 3 spoke airbag cover doesn't fit 4 spoke wheels. Fortunately the covers are available from a British company in Poland (the irony...). The old covers are designed to never be removable for obvious reasons. Using clips as below.

[Image: IMAG4178_zpse63c69b5.jpg]

At this point you just have to break the old cover off, I found ripping the end of the clips off with pliers the quickest way without causing damage to the airbag unit itself.

[Image: IMAG4179_zps4f365917.jpg]

Separated

[Image: IMAG4180_zps809bee4f.jpg]

I'd read the new covers 'simply push on'....well maybe if you're the hulk!

[Image: IMAG4181_zpsa8feaaef.jpg]

Being a skinny weakling even standing on it didn't force the clips on (yes, I realise the risk involved with that and I don't suggest other do lol). So had to come up with a genius solution lol...

[Image: IMAG4182_zps24ed4aee.jpg]

No idea how they do it in the factory, must just use a large press I guess. Anyway, fully on.

[Image: IMAG4183_zpsc26f8cec.jpg]

Then just push it back into the wheel orifice hard until the spring fully clips in (as said, much better system than the 306!).

[Image: IMAG4184_zpsde3a82e3.jpg]

Refit the battery lead and admire the new wheel!

[Image: IMAG4186_zpsfd100d6e.jpg]

At this point theres a simple button test you can do to check the buttons work before activating the cruise in various modules. Press and hold the rear window demister while turning the ignition on to put the GEM (generic electronic module) into test mode. There'll be a beep... Then press the CC buttons and each one causes a beep and indicator flash if it works. Big Grin


So, now that's working, it needs activating, which fortunately can be done for free with ELMConfig and a modified ELM cable.

First activate 'cruise control configuration' in the HEC as below.

[Image: ECHEC_zps58a23627.png]

Then the same in the GEM as below.

[Image: ECGEM_zps5b378450.png]

Then finally in the PCM activate 'integrated speed control'

[Image: ECPCM_zps8f172a96.png]

Put the laptop away and take it on a cruise!
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Also, couple of pics of the car in it's filthy current state...

[Image: IMAG4163_zpse58868a0.jpg]

[Image: IMAG4164_zpsa9ee5ca5.jpg]
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definite worthy upgrade on that steering wheel, I'd love cruise control.

Looks a smart vehicle really.
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I have so much hate for mudflaps it's unreal. It pensionerises any car.
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Agreed Mark, cruise is nice and relaxing, hopefully get to test it properly later! Though I still don't see why it wasn't standard on the top spec model... Plus someone specced £3k worth of options on this when it was new...so why no cruise lol! Confused


Lol, I have same thought about wind deflectots Jordan! lol I don't mind the flaps, kinda like them tbh, adds something to the car, but they don't appear to work...there's still mud behind them. Confused
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Great mod. Luckily we've got cruise on our Mondeo estate as I don't fancy dismantling the airbag to be honest.
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a good upgrade tom! steering wheel was the best upgrade I did, i had an Mgf one from the donor car, i was just sick of it hanging about, so i put it on, but i had to bodge a rover air bag on to fit, as the mgf wheel is smaller.
I wasn't keen on it tbh, i found that the rover 200s had better quality steering wheels. So i just changed it for one, all plug in play. Also the Rover 200 wheel is bigger too, so it made driving better.
but i have to say your brave for playing with air bag, i don't have wiring for the air bag, even though you can buy it.
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Pfft whats the worst that can happen with an airbag? lol

You drive everyday with one a foot away from your face while smacking speed bumps and potholes without worrying about it. Big Grin The only potential issue with removing one is an electronic spike/spark as you remove the plug. As long as the battery's disconnected and any backup has drained/discharged (10 mins or so) it should be fine.

I've removed and replaced loads over the years, but that's the first time I'd removed the cover from one tbf!


Stuck it on cruise at 60 down to Felixstowe today, and 70 on the way back...didn't make much difference to mpg at all as it's always bloody regenerating now, literally less than every 50 miles! Looks like I may get the chance to change the DPF on Weds, so just gotta hope its dry out.
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(24-11-2014, 05:33 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Pfft whats the worst that can happen with an airbag? lol

You drive everyday with one a foot away from your face while smacking speed bumps and potholes without worrying about it. Big Grin The only potential issue with removing one is an electronic spike/spark as you remove the plug. As long as the battery's disconnected and any backup has drained/discharged (10 mins or so) it should be fine.

I've removed and replaced loads over the years, but that's the first time I'd removed the cover from one tbf!


Stuck it on cruise at 60 down to Felixstowe today, and 70 on the way back...didn't make much difference to mpg at all as it's always bloody regenerating now, literally less than every 50 miles! Looks like I may get the chance to change the DPF on Weds, so just gotta hope its dry out.

Lol you say that, a guy got knocked out by his airbag at work when he went over a speed bump fairly quickly and it went off. He was one of these typical ones that sit about 2" away from the windscreen.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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