28-06-2014, 06:37 AM
MG ZR: Cams & Maps
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Started the process today.
This mornings rain luckily didn't last long So far removed everything except the crank pulley so can take off the cambelt and head bolts Going to replace aux belts too while I'm at it since one is a bit cracked, the cambelt is also coated in oil so really wouldn't be a good idea to reuse
28-06-2014, 07:34 PM
Head is ready to come off Just stopping for the evening as back is killing being bent over all day
Leaving the head on overnight as want a second pair of hands to lift so I don't risk dropping it
28-06-2014, 07:37 PM
Man up There not heavy
On a serious note well done for fixing it and your making good progress
28-06-2014, 08:26 PM
well done mate for getting stuck in.
Its why I had to leave the trade, my back kept getting locked in the bent over position, funny as hell for everyone in the workshop...painful as hell for me!! Wishes for more power...
29-06-2014, 03:26 PM
Well head is off and some not so nice news.
Previous owners decided not to use the supplied protective shim with the mls, possibly because he thought it was only to use if the head was skimmed. So can only guess he didn't skim and put half the gasket on. Using a straight edge shows the head to not be badly warped although there may be a bit on the exhaust side. For safety sake it'll get a skim. This means I now need to take apart the head which could be interesting with it being a vvc and having 3 cams and some nice hydraulic controls There is also some very nice carbon build up on the pistons
29-06-2014, 03:41 PM
Those pistons look pretty clean to me tbh
Ive seen a LOT worse when doing Kseries. Weird to see no mayo...thats usually everywhere! Haha Well done for cracking on keep it up Wishes for more power...
29-06-2014, 03:46 PM
You dont need to take the head apart, machine shop should take apart and refit what ever they need to take off
306oc Chat Wrote:15:30: Toms306 - :Genuinely thought it was gonna explode when I was playing with Sam
29-06-2014, 03:48 PM
Worth mentioning to the machine shop you think someone has cocked up the vvc mech! Also as said top marks for cracking on, no better way to learn imo!
Doesnt even own a 306.
29-06-2014, 03:59 PM
(29-06-2014, 03:46 PM)Connor Wrote: You dont need to take the head apart, machine shop should take apart and refit what ever they need to take off But you pay extra for that, seems little point as it can be done at home easily enough IMHO Welding and fabrication projects undertaken, contact me for more information.
29-06-2014, 04:10 PM
Yeah, take ya time and do it yourself
Much more feeling of self worth then! You can do things like lapping in the valves which is proper OCD fullfilling! Plus saving some ££££ Wishes for more power...
29-06-2014, 04:11 PM
(29-06-2014, 04:10 PM)Piggy Wrote: Yeah, take ya time and do it yourself EFA
Team Eaton
1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
29-06-2014, 04:23 PM
It doesn't surprise me about it been an half arsed job! typical that's why you do things your self with these engines! At least you will put it back to rights again!
plus you have checked the head now, and know what's going on there.
29-06-2014, 04:26 PM
There is a great satisfaction from getting these things fixed your self. Get that head skimmed (Just not at the place Rowell got his done ) and get it back together and see how she goes.
Just a thought. Did you ever check the timing when you were chasing your lost ponies? If this has had a gasket before (what am i saying, of course it has, its a K series lol), it may of not been timed up properly and who ever did it may have taken the "f*ck it its close enough" attitude.
Team Eaton
1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
29-06-2014, 04:37 PM
29-06-2014, 04:55 PM
External timing seemed about right. it's the internal timing of the vvc that i'll check now but starting to wonder if it was just because of the bad gasket and carboning that the 20 hp went walkies
29-06-2014, 04:58 PM
From the pics that really doesn't look that bad mate so I would be surprised if it was the cause of your loss.
Either that or the dyno it went on was just shite or the operator had no clue!
Team Eaton
1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
Went on two different dynos though producing results 5hp from one another so can guess it was in that region
Not looking to do a total full rebuild as want to make sure it's running for pugfest so will take off the carrier hopefully tonight and get it down to a state hopefully like this (this is not mine) from http://www.davebence.co.uk/mods_10.htm Question: Do I need to remove the valves? or could I just have like in the picture
29-06-2014, 05:19 PM
Don't have to remove valves, the machine shop will do it if they need removing. Not worth the hassle of valve spring compressors tbh.
29-06-2014, 05:21 PM
Good lad for cracking on yourself. Defo strip it yourself as decent machine shop time is uber expensive. Defo remove the valves mate, if you fully strip it they should give it a good dunk in the cleaning tank and that'll clean out all your ports. If they have decent machines (and you have the money) get the valve seats cut back by as much as the head is skimmed by and they can cut the seats and valves so perfectly you wont have to lap them in.
29-06-2014, 05:39 PM
A k series head needs fully stripping for skimming, whoevers skimming it will normally charge double to strip and rebiuld it for you
29-06-2014, 06:21 PM
Take valves out is best bet dude, can do the valve stem seals then aswell
29-06-2014, 09:36 PM
I'll ring some places tomorrow then, might be able to get cams off but I think ill pay for the valves to be removed if they need to be
29-06-2014, 10:57 PM
What a bummer finding it's been f*cked up by a previous owner, but as echoed, fair play for having a decent crack at it!
Current stable
'09 Mercedes E320cdi wagon '99 306 gti6
29-06-2014, 11:07 PM
Best thing to do often is to disassemble yourself - give to them in parts all in a tray, all in separate bags and all labelled up for each cylinder and valve.
They'll then clean it for you and re-assemble - then you know it went back together right. If you do decide to remove valves yourself - don't bother with getting a spring compressor - remove bucket, get a socket and a strong magnet - place magnet up end of socket and secure with glue or similar - place socket over valve retainer and twat with hammer. Collets fly off, stick to magnet - bam easy.
30-06-2014, 06:07 AM
Not used to these horrible petrol engines, i thought the amount of carbon and signs of overheating meant it was knackered myself. There was a tiny amount of mayo on the mating face of the block where all the fluids had been pissing out and mixing, but aside from that there was nothing. Amazing considering it's been round track a few times like that.
30-06-2014, 06:50 AM
Just remove the valves mate, I've got compressors you can borrow, and it's not a difficult job.
Welding and fabrication projects undertaken, contact me for more information.
Just phoned place in Cadnam which is a bit closer than Portsmouth. £50 for skim but valves can stay in just need the cam carrier and followers out and have a next day turn out which I'm more inclined for as not really keen for valves out, never done it before and risk loosing bits
30-06-2014, 10:04 AM
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