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New slam panel and rad looking the business :-)
Where you going to mount the new expansion tank?
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You can see the expansion tank in the bottom pic. Its mounted onto the bulk head. Rad is just a 2nd hand unit but hoping to get a nice shiny new alloy one soon.
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Had a late start and late finish today. Didnt get into the workshop till after 4pm. Jim finished the wiring while I made up a blanking plate for the throttle body and modified my bumper ect... next job was to test everything. Cooling switch tested and kicks in at 97oC, fan rewired and works fine. Then we tested fuel pump and pressure what were fine. Bit the fuel rail we modified had a few holes where fuel was getting out. Back off for abit welding then tested. Still no better. This went on for about 45 minutes, each time getting worse. In the end we gave up and luckily found another one what was perfect. No leaks.
Then we tested for a spark. Nothing! Bit fiddling about and still nothing!! So left that and tested the injectors. Nothing again. Ran a few tests and found there was a wrong relay supplied with the ecu so jim knocked his own up. Tested spark and injectors again and both were working fine
10.15pm 18th May. Now will it fire... yes :thumbsup ITS ALIVE! Sounds f**king mental. Only problem is we have no idle so have to keep the revs up to stop it cutting out. Oil pressure was between 5-6psi. Air/fuel was between 13-15.5 depending on revs with fuel pressure set at 4.5bar. This was set at this due to the injectors being further away than standard also helped idle a little. Mapping should sort idle and dave will sort fuel pressure at the same time.
Few little things to sort in tge morning like a small leak from the rad, air leak in the inlet and the rev counter isnt working but other than that we should be good to go. Heres a quick video B)
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hGmmWSGxFiI
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Success! Looks mental haha
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Good work fella...
Like the slam panel mod...
Only thought is whether that smaller rad is now up to the job?!
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4.5bar fuel pressure... woah!!
I would personally, leave it around stock. The injectors aren't designed to take that sort of pressure.
Also, if you are running a lambda sensor, the pressure won't make a difference as the ECU will pull back injector duration to do what it wants to do anyway.
Looking great though - very interesting to see the results you get.
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Cool.
What cams are in it again?
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Front end is looking like a colander
That inlet fanimold looks epic though dude, where'd it come from?
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I am running catcam 3107s. Sound this thing makes is mental. Love it. Cant wait for it to be mapped now. Going to be wednesday before I find out results tho as I left it abit late today but never mind. Al get there
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Shame the bonnet hinges have broken, must have been open for too long :p
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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19-05-2014, 03:23 PM
(This post was last modified: 19-05-2014, 03:26 PM by eddy_gti6.)
Or the inlet is that bit I had to raise it to make room for it to fit
You can see here just how hight it sits but you have to remeber the BTCC cars ran the engine a lot lower in the engine bay than standard and this was ran on a 406 and not a 306
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Finally! Picked my car up this morning. Dave has had to set idle at 1200rpm as if it drops any lower than that it idles rough as hell. I need to match the head to the inlet size as well due to the inlet being 45mm and the head being 38mm what causes a slight step and doesnt give the full smooth air flow it should. I will sort that when I find a spare head. The car drives and pulls very well and sounds pretty awesome too. Throttle response is alot sharper than before too. Just need to give to engine bay a good clean now. Very pleased with the outcome but still not finished. As for BHP I have no idea untill I get it on the rollers so all I can do is guess a figure so im going to say 300bhp untill proven wrong haha...
please dont take that seriously as I know some of you will and be along to tell me I have no chance of it running at 300bhp ect... please keep them comments to yourself. Thanks
Quick blast on track to see what its like before heading home.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=d8NyhHmSOAg
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I don't get that, it's mapped but not on the rollers?
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Mapped on the road and not the rollers. Look into it. Alot of racing teams do live mapping.
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30-05-2014, 12:20 PM
(This post was last modified: 30-05-2014, 12:22 PM by jammapic.)
Live mapping is simply the term used for running a car from a laptop while running it, either on the dyno or on the road.
When we've been mapping my car, it's been live mapped using an emulator on the stock ECU, we've done a mixture. There are load sites you cannot get to on the road which you would nearly always use a dyno to optimise. For example, 6000rpm, full load not letting the car accelerate - very hard to optimise on the road without doing 140mph.
It can be done, but it seems and odd way to do it on it's own... normally, for a decent map you'd use a dyno and road tuning to optimise the whole map, and then the transient mapping when on the move.
I suspect you'll see good numbers with that inlet, and ultimately numbers and dyno curve at full throttle should be good as mapping at 100% throttle is pretty easy to do. But I would ask the question about how it ultimately would drive, and what would happen in certain situations when you reach bits of the map you couldn't hit on the road.
Interesting stuff anyway mate - keep at it!
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But they you have to think how often do you get to drive flat out on an open road, engine bay pressure and temperature on a road and rollers are different and where mapping on a road its in its natural surroundings. I have read loads of different opinions about mapping on the road and mapping on rollers and to be honest its matched around 50/50 but a lot of people who have never had live mapping I have found tend to slate it due to lack of experience. Sorry but I am not really the person to comment much on whats best and whats not as its not my line of business. All I know is what I have read and what I have been told ect...
I am happy with the way the car feels and drives and was reassure if I had any doubts or problems to go back but I have a mate with a 106 gti on jenveys mapped by dave and ran faultless for over a year what made 177bhp on the rollers and a mate with a saxo vtr turbo what has been running for 3 years with no issues at 220bhp.
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Hi to everyone.
I apologize that I disappeared from this site after having participated for awhile. I was and still am too busy with other things. I must also admit that I have an ulterior motive for coming back. For a few years since I bought, I think in 2008, my 2000 model 1600cc 306, about all I had to do to my car was 10000 km care taking: oil change, filters, sparking plugs, and the like. Aside from that, the car was pretty much trouble free.
More recently, however, I have started to have problems in the fuel system, had to replace the fuel pump, cleaned the stepping motor, mostly simple stuff. But over the past week I've had a problem which I can only hope that the local garage man and I have solved. What happens from time to time is that I turn on the ignition and don't hear the fuel pump kick in. Then nothing can start it. I don't understand all these new (year 2000 is new to me) electronic systems. The garage man, who has a degree in electrical engineering, explained to me that an electric signal, through a relay, starts the fuel pump to working when you turn on the ignition.The relay was burned out, apparently because of a loose wire which caused a short circuit. He replaced the relay, and the car is running. for now. Actually the story is more complex than that. And if anyone wants to read more about it, let me know.
I got to thinking that I would like to go back to an old car, of the sort that I understand, with normal things like a carburetor, a mechanical fuel pump, ignition points, etc. I do not think I ever had a problem on the road, for many years and with many cars, that I couldn't fix myself. I used to keep a fuel pump, points, condenser, etc., etc.,along with tools in the car, and just do what was needed whenever I had a problem.
The local garage man, whom I mentioned, works with his father, who has been in the business for over 50 years. The father told me that when he went out on road calls, he used to send 90% of the people driving away. Now he tows 90% to the garage.
I don't think these problems in the electronic systems come up because of bad, or lack of maintenance. I do the regular care faithfully. Every morning, before starting my engine, I not only check oil and water. I look and feel the engine over to see if anything is loose or out of place. But this does not prevent electronic problems.
I have a feeling that the car manufacturers are learning from the mobile 'phone and computer people. If something is five years old, it is already old and has to be replaced. Or am I too cynical?
So this is what got me thinking about getting a good, old car which I can fix on the road, like I used to do.
But I am vacillating, which is what brought me back to our Forum. Maybe I should just work harder to learn my 306. For one thing, I understand that one has to know something about electronics. I think I understand quite well about electricity. But electronics are a different story. So my first question for 306 friends, now that I am back, is: can anyone recommend a good, simple book, an introduction to electronics for the layman?
And in general, what do you people think about whether my best route would be an older car, or investing more into learning my 306.
Very best wishes to all,
Yeruham
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What?
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.
62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6: Project Thread
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Nice work on the car.. its looking good, how did you get that grill mate?
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Made the grill myself. Just cut some holes in it
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01-06-2014, 12:36 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-06-2014, 12:37 PM by RetroPug.)
Are you running an air filter over the trumpets inside the inlet?
If not, you could go for a BMC filter or even a standard airbox with std. ducting etc. for what would probably be the best power & torque I'd have thought?
Rather than sticking a cone on the end of the TB?
In any case, looking good!
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.
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Looks great man. Love the no fucks given ecu mounting. I never understood why they didnt put tabs on them to mount them to something lol
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Haha yeah cable ties FTW Naill haha. I want it moved from there to be honest. Its ok for ow but when the bad weather comes it will get covered in water and grit off the road.
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(01-06-2014, 07:01 PM)eddy_gti6 Wrote: Haha yeah cable ties FTW Naill haha. I want it moved from there to be honest. Its ok for ow but when the bad weather comes it will get covered in water and grit off the road.
Ive just moved mine into the cabin for that reason. I know the enclosure is IP65 and the plug is IP68 but the serial plug is completely exposed. Also, if you want to leave the bonnet up at shows etc, its very easy to unplug and nick!
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If its going to be too much f*ck on putting it inside the car I will just make something. May just use the standard ecu box just cut it down a little.
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