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07-04-2014, 01:13 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-04-2014, 01:19 PM by Toms306.)
(07-04-2014, 01:06 PM)powerandtorque Wrote: That's pretty bad!
Were they known good injectors that you or somone you trust saw running or were they effectively unknown purchased off an eBay or similar?
Purchased from ebay. But the guy seems to really know his stuff about the injectors tbh. They don't tick though, and it idles much better with them, so I doubt it's them causing the issue. Somethings obviously not right though.
I'm wondering about the MAF, I have several spares, but don't know if any are good or not!
Also, theres no smoke, so I don't think its boost leak related.
Only thing to note is a really odd noise that I don't recall hearing on any other HDi, it was only happening at 1200rpm ish, but now happens more often at different speeds. It's a really odd noise, sounds kinda like a wet fart or clearing phlegm from a throat! I thought it was something to do with the old injectors sticking/struggling under load but it's exactly the same with the new ones so cant be related to them.
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07-04-2014, 02:57 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-04-2014, 02:58 PM by C2K.)
Have you timed out correctly? I was always pleased with the overtaking ability, that's why I had it mapped.
Wet fart noise??? Wtf?
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07-04-2014, 03:25 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-04-2014, 03:27 PM by Toms306.)
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07-04-2014, 05:22 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-04-2014, 05:23 PM by DeeTurbo.)
If you get to stick pp on it check the actual fuel pressure against what it should be at high revs under load. I bet the pump is worn and not keeping up.
Also might be worth doing a leak off test to see what the injectors are like.
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Bad luck tom. Hope you get it fixed. i have a good MAF on the estate if you want it.
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I would say MAF, if its not reading high figures itl just tell the map not to put the fuel in.
Unplug it and if theres little/no difference ur maf is probably knackered
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(07-04-2014, 05:22 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: If you get to stick pp on it check the actual fuel pressure against what it should be at high revs under load. I bet the pump is worn and not keeping up.
Also might be worth doing a leak off test to see what the injectors are like.
Hmm, not sure how I could do that without another person. What should the pressure be btw?
(07-04-2014, 07:24 PM)mcglynn Wrote: I would say MAF, if its not reading high figures itl just tell the map not to put the fuel in.
Unplug it and if theres little/no difference ur maf is probably knackered
Yeah I'll unplug it next time I go out. I have about 5 spare but wont know if any are good without trying them lol.
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Get pp2000 on it and see what airflow figures you are getting, steve done a write up somewhere on them
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Fancy finding that write-up for me?
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Dunno how this forum is with me posting .net stuff but there it is! Pretty informative/good write up.
Clicky
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Nice one, will read through in a bit, cheers.
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(07-04-2014, 07:57 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Hmm, not sure how I could do that without another person. What should the pressure be btw?
I use camstudio to record what's on the screen and play it back later to see what values I get. There is a field tell you the difference between actual and target value the high 40-50 is a definite HP worn value.
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(07-04-2014, 08:07 PM)mcglynn Wrote: Dunno how this forum is with me posting .net stuff but there it is! Pretty informative/good write up.
BANHAMMERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!
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(07-04-2014, 08:51 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: (07-04-2014, 07:57 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Hmm, not sure how I could do that without another person. What should the pressure be btw?
I use camstudio to record what's on the screen and play it back later to see what values I get. There is a field tell you the difference between actual and target value the high 40-50 is a definite HP worn value.
Ah ok, do you reckon its likely to be that then? Or should I check MAF values first?
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Go with MAF first as it's the easiest thing to fix.
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Wet fart noise could be it blowing from somewhere, would check manifold and egr joins first.
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08-04-2014, 08:14 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-04-2014, 08:15 AM by Toms306.)
(08-04-2014, 05:29 AM)Poodle Wrote: Wet fart noise could be it blowing from somewhere, would check manifold and egr joins first.
Yeah I did think this tbh, I know its blowing boost a bit around the silicones, and oily silicone could act like an arse tbh...
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(08-04-2014, 08:14 AM)Toms306 Wrote: (08-04-2014, 05:29 AM)Poodle Wrote: Wet fart noise could be it blowing from somewhere, would check manifold and egr joins first.
Yeah I did think this tbh, I know its blowing boost a bit around the silicones, and oily silicone could act like an arse tbh...
I am fairly sure that its nothing like ass.
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Enough about ass anyway.
PP laptop battery has decided it doesn't want to hold charge anymore, sigh. So used handheld reader for MAF readings instead. Its about 10 g/s at ide. And hit 92 under load in 3rd. So that seems alright?
I did find that the dash temp gauge is lying though, the engine gets up to 80c within a couple of miles, despite never getting above 70 on the guage.
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Converting those g/s figures into mg/r figures suggests that they're in the ballpark Steve reckons is good in that thread.
10 g/s @ 800rpm = 375 mg/r (Steve reckons 250-300 with EGR and 450-500 without)
92 g/s @ 3000rpm = 920 mg/r (Steve reckons 900-950 on a St1 tune)
(I've made some assumptions there about engine speed, which if wrong would change the figures a little)
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Good assumptions, you're spot on lol.
Unfortunately can't get HP values on the handheld though. Will try leaving laptop on change over night but doubt it'll hold enough charge for tomorrow.
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If you've got a few minutes spare it might be worth doing a quick leakoff test on the new injectors to check that there's nothing glaringly wrong there. Using PP2000 with the car idling and checking the injection correction percentage values look sensible would be a good move too.
Good low mileage injectors should easily pass both of those tests, but worth doing anyway given that they've got to be suspect. After all, logically if all you did was swap the injectors and it lost a load of power, then the fault has to lie either with the injectors themselves or something that was disturbed during the swap.
Of course, I appreciate that all too often logic and aging French cars don't go hand in hand...
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What sort of percentage correction would be normal for them? I can do 'still' PP tests with an extension lead no problem. Leak off might be more difficult as I don't have any pipe lol.
There wasn't much power before the injector change, thats the main reason for changing them.
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Still haven't had chance to get PP on there.
However, theres a new odd symptom... Every start it idles at 900 for a second, then drops to about 700ish trying to stall, and bouces back to 850 where it stays afterwards. Any idea wtf is going on there lol?
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Mine did that briefly and all I did was squirt some carb cleaner into the TPS, has been fine since so that's good enough for me!
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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Into the TPS? How do you mean?
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Took it off, soaked it in brake or carb cleaner (one or the other) and it's been fine since. Of course, it could still be something else that's the problem and I was just fortunate and disturbed some wiring in the process!
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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I have 4 spare TPS's, could try swapping one I guess!
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Finally got PP2k on this! Only at idle, and then revved to around 4k, no load. Not really sure what I'm looking for but none of the injector corections look massively different to others. I did notice a big difference in the req'd vs actual fuel pressure for a split second when revved, but guessing that's normal anyway, its not a mind-reader lol.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4jw6jpe...e=youtu.be
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