Posts: 175
Threads: 40
Joined: Aug 2013
Reputation:
0
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
08-01-2014, 12:59 AM
Hi all ,
Took car out for a spin earlier , in search for a bit more power after the incident with the 11mm lol...
At first , it felt mega powerful and was spinning wheels up in 3rd quite easily etc , but then after a few runs , it started to die down a bit and didn't accelerate or feel as fast.. Is this just down to heat soak?
If so then I'll try and get a fmic asap?
I'm running 32psi on top mount and td04
Posts: 1,204
Threads: 195
Joined: Jul 2013
Reputation:
6
Location: Wolverhampton
Car Model/Spec: 2000 Xs 1.8 16v
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
08-01-2014, 01:08 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-01-2014, 01:09 AM by underground375.)
Td04 at 32psi? That is calling for a front mount !!!! All you will be sucking in is hot air!
Posts: 15,646
Threads: 541
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
124
Location: Aylesbury
Car Model/Spec: 320bhp Impreza WRX
Thanks: 7
Given 59 thank(s) in 58 post(s)
Yeah that'll be heat soak.
A £1 bag of ice cubes on the TMIC will help short term.
Posts: 20,092
Threads: 591
Joined: Nov 2012
Reputation:
54
Location: Cotswolds
Car Model/Spec: Stage 13 16v HDi
Thanks: 22
Given 68 thank(s) in 68 post(s)
Scooby bonnet scoop and intercooler sprays...yeah maaaan!
Posts: 1,924
Threads: 86
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
2
Thanks: 0
Given 1 thank(s) in 1 post(s)
Lewis, fmic it mate, im doing mine next week, got everything to do it now, but really cba lol.
Posts: 175
Threads: 40
Joined: Aug 2013
Reputation:
0
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
Aye looks like I'm gonna need it then ehhh , better start getting all bits together asap and might give that ice cube trick a go first though lol
Padge be a babe and tell me your shopping list for intercooler ? Exact piping etc. etc ?
Posts: 61
Threads: 4
Joined: Feb 2013
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
Running the turbo at 32psi is completely stupid, it is way out of it's efficiency range, try turning it down by about 10 psi and your inlet temps will drop.
A FMIC will help, but you really need to turn that boost down. More boost does not always equal more power, in many cases you'd have ended up with a blown turbo by now, it's just that those turbos are fairly reliable and can take a bit of abuse.
Posts: 1,924
Threads: 86
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
2
Thanks: 0
Given 1 thank(s) in 1 post(s)
lewis, when ive routed mine up, ill show/tell you exactly whats needed so you can copy my deign
Posts: 1,748
Threads: 41
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
12
Location: Midlands
Car Model/Spec: Dtractor
Thanks: 0
Given 6 thank(s) in 6 post(s)
If that's a stock engine, I doubt it'll last too long running that kind of boost.
Posts: 731
Threads: 35
Joined: Feb 2013
Reputation:
7
Location: Devon
Car Model/Spec: Phase 1 dturbo sima blue
Thanks: 2
Given 2 thank(s) in 2 post(s)
As every one above has said need to get the temps down or the boost
Posts: 175
Threads: 40
Joined: Aug 2013
Reputation:
0
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
Been running that boost for about 10 months now , might turn boost down a bit until I get cooler tbh been thinking about doing it for a while
Posts: 3,662
Threads: 127
Joined: Feb 2012
Reputation:
33
Location: London
Car Model/Spec: ZX Volcane TD
Thanks: 6
Given 31 thank(s) in 31 post(s)
(08-01-2014, 05:02 AM)Dave Wrote: If that's a stock engine, I doubt it'll last too long running that kind of boost.
surely boost doesn't mean a thing unless you put in the fuel to burn it - adding a few 10s of psi down the inlet isn't going to increase peak cylinder pressures significantly over what they are already, ie stupidly high.
iirc this has been running on a 9mm
sure, chuck in a 11mm and get too happy with the static advance and you're pushing your luck
Posts: 61
Threads: 4
Joined: Feb 2013
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
(08-01-2014, 03:43 PM)LewisG306 Wrote: Been running that boost for about 10 months now , might turn boost down a bit until I get cooler tbh been thinking about doing it for a while
Turn it down to around 22-23 psi and don't bother turning it back up once you've got a FMIC.
32 psi is way out of it's efficiency range and a FMIC will not make up for that.
Posts: 6,482
Threads: 226
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
24
Location: Cornwall
Car Model/Spec: A3 TDi
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
f*ck efficiency, 30 psi is way more fun than 20!
Doesnt even own a 306.
Posts: 61
Threads: 4
Joined: Feb 2013
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
I bet you're barely making any more power at 32 than you are at 22.
Posts: 175
Threads: 40
Joined: Aug 2013
Reputation:
0
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
I've just turned it down anyway , it still pulls pretty well tbh , and for some reason I seem to have gained turbo stall ? Lmao
Obviously the 9mm was maxed out , and I've had to
Take it back on the max fuel screw and then wind in the idle screw at the back, for some reason though , it doesn't want to idle any more than about 800 which is obviously a bit low and It had just cut out wh em I went down the road. Anyone know how
I can bring the idle back up to a acceptable level?
Posts: 1,924
Threads: 86
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
2
Thanks: 0
Given 1 thank(s) in 1 post(s)
Ste, i ran my td04 at 20psi for months, wound it upto 40 and it was a toally different car, so muc more agressive, i couldnt beleive what a difference it made.
Posts: 367
Threads: 36
Joined: Sep 2012
Reputation:
2
Location: Newcastle
Car Model/Spec: PH2 Dturbo
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
(08-01-2014, 04:43 PM)LewisG306 Wrote: I've just turned it down anyway , it still pulls pretty well tbh , and for some reason I seem to have gained turbo stall ? Lmao
Obviously the 9mm was maxed out , and I've had to
Take it back on the max fuel screw and then wind in the idle screw at the back, for some reason though , it doesn't want to idle any more than about 800 which is obviously a bit low and It had just cut out wh em I went down the road. Anyone know how
I can bring the idle back up to a acceptable level?
isn't 800rpm a normal hot idle? and cold is 1000 - 1100
Or I might be talking out of my arse.
but if it's the fuel screw you've turned down and it's dropped your idle, look for the cable that goes from the wax stat to the pump, there should be 2 screws behind the pump where the cable goes to.
And I think the passenger side screw is the hot idle.
Posts: 755
Threads: 39
Joined: Jul 2013
Reputation:
4
Location: Portsmouth
Car Model/Spec: P2 Dturbo
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
when you've maxed the pump out though those screws do sweet f**k all and you have to start adjusting it by other means
00' 106 Indy - Moonstone - Sold
97' 106 XT 1.6 - Mayerling Green - Swapped
95' 306 P1 DT - Onyx - Scrapped
97' 306 P2 DT - Silver - Scrapped
97' 306 P2 DT - Onyx - SORN awaiting scrap
Posts: 175
Threads: 40
Joined: Aug 2013
Reputation:
0
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
09-01-2014, 10:37 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-01-2014, 10:45 AM by LewisG306.)
(09-01-2014, 10:03 AM)Dean Wrote: (08-01-2014, 04:43 PM)LewisG306 Wrote: I've just turned it down anyway , it still pulls pretty well tbh , and for some reason I seem to have gained turbo stall ? Lmao
Obviously the 9mm was maxed out , and I've had to
Take it back on the max fuel screw and then wind in the idle screw at the back, for some reason though , it doesn't want to idle any more than about 800 which is obviously a bit low and It had just cut out wh em I went down the road. Anyone know how
I can bring the idle back up to a acceptable level?
isn't 800rpm a normal hot idle? and cold is 1000 - 1100
Or I might be talking out of my arse.
but if it's the fuel screw you've turned down and it's dropped your idle, look for the cable that goes from the wax stat to the pump, there should be 2 screws behind the pump where the cable goes to.
And I think the passenger side screw is the hot idle.
I'm not sure , 800 just feels and sounds a bit low , even when it's low.
I have tried giving the passenger side of the two screws some adjustment but doesn't really do much lol
(09-01-2014, 10:08 AM)adamm306 Wrote: when you've maxed the pump out though those screws do sweet f**k all and you have to start adjusting it by other means
Yeah they don't do anything at all now , I did manage to wind the max fuel screw back enough for the hot idle (passenger side down the back of the pump) to start making a little bit of adjustment. With about 6-7 turns it probably made about 100 rpm difference but now it did drop the power off some.
I have got to say that it running at 32psi+ Is a lot better compared to lower pressures , it's just not consistent. I'm not sure how long inlet temps would stay down on around 20psi , it's really hard to say.
End of the day though, looks like I need a front mount lol
Posts: 6,367
Threads: 87
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
48
Location: South Yorks.
Car Model/Spec: Rouge vallelunga 5 door Dturbo
Thanks: 2
Given 74 thank(s) in 70 post(s)
(09-01-2014, 10:37 AM)LewisG306 Wrote: (09-01-2014, 10:03 AM)Dean Wrote: (08-01-2014, 04:43 PM)LewisG306 Wrote: I've just turned it down anyway , it still pulls pretty well tbh , and for some reason I seem to have gained turbo stall ? Lmao
Obviously the 9mm was maxed out , and I've had to
Take it back on the max fuel screw and then wind in the idle screw at the back, for some reason though , it doesn't want to idle any more than about 800 which is obviously a bit low and It had just cut out wh em I went down the road. Anyone know how
I can bring the idle back up to a acceptable level?
isn't 800rpm a normal hot idle? and cold is 1000 - 1100
Or I might be talking out of my arse.
but if it's the fuel screw you've turned down and it's dropped your idle, look for the cable that goes from the wax stat to the pump, there should be 2 screws behind the pump where the cable goes to.
And I think the passenger side screw is the hot idle.
I'm not sure , 800 just feels and sounds a bit low , even when it's low.
I have tried giving the passenger side of the two screws some adjustment but doesn't really do much lol
there's a lock nut and threaded grub to tighten the wax stat cable, might not be tight enough mate . .
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
Posts: 2,083
Threads: 106
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
7
Location: Manchester
Car Model/Spec: GTi-6
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
You tend to lose around 1.5% peak bhp and torque for every 5*c of extra inlet temp.
You can quickly lose a lot of power to heat soak....
JP
Posts: 175
Threads: 40
Joined: Aug 2013
Reputation:
0
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
09-01-2014, 11:35 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-01-2014, 11:38 AM by LewisG306.)
(09-01-2014, 10:45 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: (09-01-2014, 10:37 AM)LewisG306 Wrote: (09-01-2014, 10:03 AM)Dean Wrote: isn't 800rpm a normal hot idle? and cold is 1000 - 1100
Or I might be talking out of my arse.
but if it's the fuel screw you've turned down and it's dropped your idle, look for the cable that goes from the wax stat to the pump, there should be 2 screws behind the pump where the cable goes to.
And I think the passenger side screw is the hot idle.
I'm not sure , 800 just feels and sounds a bit low , even when it's low.
I have tried giving the passenger side of the two screws some adjustment but doesn't really do much lol
there's a lock nut and threaded grub to tighten the wax stat cable, might not be tight enough mate . .
Ahh right cheers , I'll have to take another look in a bit
(09-01-2014, 11:13 AM)jammapic Wrote: You tend to lose around 1.5% peak bhp and torque for every 5*c of extra inlet temp.
You can quickly lose a lot of power to heat soak....
Well I can definitely feel that power loss , it doesn't pull anywhere near as well after it's been given some hammer.
I think it's fair to say it must be getting hot in there anyway after seeing that the retainer for holding my nitrous injector onto the standard boost pipe from turbo outlet to cooler inlet had melted....
Posts: 4,660
Threads: 343
Joined: Jul 2012
Reputation:
15
Location: Chesterfield
Car Model/Spec: 106 gti / 306 hdi estate
Thanks: 4
Given 3 thank(s) in 3 post(s)
Get that 11mm sorted and on and with a fmic should be epic!
*awaits thread there's a hole in my engine *
Posts: 5,205
Threads: 91
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
83
Location: Oxfordshire/Cornwall
Car Model/Spec: Moonstone DT/Volvo V50
Thanks: 2
Given 41 thank(s) in 41 post(s)
I'm so waiting for a massive nitrous backfire in the exhaust manifold.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
Posts: 1,748
Threads: 41
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
12
Location: Midlands
Car Model/Spec: Dtractor
Thanks: 0
Given 6 thank(s) in 6 post(s)
I bet it's making more power at 32psi than its ever been doing at any other psi... But only briefly... If its just a de wastegates td04 it's good to make that kind of boost from such an old turbo, so the fuel must be getting in or it just wouldn't boost to that. 10 months is hellish good, I lasted 400 miles at 45psi. If its 9mm what has been done to the pump out of interest?
Posts: 175
Threads: 40
Joined: Aug 2013
Reputation:
0
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
10-01-2014, 03:11 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-01-2014, 03:25 PM by LewisG306.)
(10-01-2014, 10:36 AM)Ruan Wrote: I'm so waiting for a massive nitrous backfire in the exhaust manifold.
Why would it backfire?
(10-01-2014, 11:49 AM)Dave Wrote: I bet it's making more power at 32psi than its ever been doing at any other psi... But only briefly... If its just a de wastegates td04 it's good to make that kind of boost from such an old turbo, so the fuel must be getting in or it just wouldn't boost to that. 10 months is hellish good, I lasted 400 miles at 45psi. If its 9mm what has been done to the pump out of interest?
Yeah it's de wastegated , and I know. Yep I've been running no less than 30psi for the past 10 months. I don't really boot it everywhere only give it some stick every once in a while... Always had regular oil changes using shell hx7 and sometimes run it on shell v power. Never ran it on veg.
The pump and turbo is Danny's old set up , I'm not sure exactly what has been done to it , I just bought it and had it put on...
I do know it as much as it revs over 5k and Danny has said it is gov'd and I've seen the lda and that had been ground too. The compensator screw is all the way out and the car is idling at about 1100 all the time with the max fuel screw as the only way to adjust rpm now.
We did also manage to knock the throttle arm back a spline aswell. But that is all I know.
Ruan, if you mean a backfire like this,
http://youtu.be/728U4X8smcs
then it will never happen with me because I don't plant my foot to the floor at stupidly low rpm and injecting nitrous...
Posts: 61
Threads: 4
Joined: Feb 2013
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
TD04's are much happier at around 23-24psi (you'll have to double check the compressor map yourself if you can be bothered to be 100% sure) but that should put you somewhere in one of the efficiency islands, whereas at 32psi you're probably off the map altogether, but going as low as 20 psi isn't really pushing the turbo.
What's happening at the moment is it feels fast for the first couple of pulls, but because it's just creating heat, the intercooler is getting heat soaked, once that happens you're losing power. A front mount wont help much either, it wont cool down fast enough to keep the temps down.
By keeping the boost at a sensible amount AND using a front mount, you'll make the best of both and keep the temps much more consistent.
Posts: 6,482
Threads: 226
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
24
Location: Cornwall
Car Model/Spec: A3 TDi
Thanks: 0
Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
(10-01-2014, 04:31 PM)ste91 Wrote: TD04's are much happier at around 23-24psi (you'll have to double check the compressor map yourself if you can be bothered to be 100% sure) but that should put you somewhere in one of the efficiency islands, whereas at 32psi you're probably off the map altogether, but going as low as 20 psi isn't really pushing the turbo.
What's happening at the moment is it feels fast for the first couple of pulls, but because it's just creating heat, the intercooler is getting heat soaked, once that happens you're losing power. A front mount wont help much either, it wont cool down fast enough to keep the temps down.
By keeping the boost at a sensible amount AND using a front mount, you'll make the best of both and keep the temps much more consistent.
Disagree, my td04 runs at around 30psi and my inlet temps stay at around 10degrees :/
Doesnt even own a 306.
Posts: 5,205
Threads: 91
Joined: Dec 2011
Reputation:
83
Location: Oxfordshire/Cornwall
Car Model/Spec: Moonstone DT/Volvo V50
Thanks: 2
Given 41 thank(s) in 41 post(s)
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
|