Swapping to an inline filter

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Swapping to an inline filter
#1
Is there a guide? Can't see how the fuel housing comes off?

Also which way round are the fuel lines, meaning which one is in and which one is out
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#2
4 bolts ontop
remove filter inside
"drain" derv
10/13mm bolt inside
done

as for fuel lines - follow it - the return will join at some point with the leak offs

the inlet pipe is on a banjo bolt on the left hand side of the pump if you're looking directly at it
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#3
Damn, didn't think the bolt would be inside! I'll have a look tomorrow while waiting for paint to dry.

What's the best way to connect up the new filter, cut lines and jubilee clips?
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#4
pretty much.

do NOT chop the lines until you are POSITIVE and double POSITIVE the lines are long enough, the line actually fits the filter, there is enough length to get to the pump and also you have decent jubilees on there
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#5
Why do people change to the inline filter over standard? Is the only reason cuz the standard housings sometime leak air?
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#6
I guess so.

I just ensure mine dont leak air!!
I prefer the heated filter housing anyday
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#7
Standard fuel filters never really been a problem for me (as far as I'm aware) and seem perfectly capable at catching gunk/veg.

Pointless swap as far as I can see...
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#8
Quick swap, housing can leak. Better filtration iirc
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#9
(13-08-2013, 11:13 AM)Matt Wrote: Quick swap, housing can leak. Better filtration iirc

Any proof?
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#10
Becauseracecar?

I've had my standard filter/housing create bubbles due to inlet/outlet piping creating a type of swirl affect. I changed to an aftermarket setup and cleared the issues I had (I had changed the original filter also). There was a thread up about it once upon a time.
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#11
(13-08-2013, 11:19 AM)silverzx Wrote:
(13-08-2013, 11:13 AM)Matt Wrote: Quick swap, housing can leak. Better filtration iirc

Any proof?


Quick swap: two jubilee on either end, loosen and pull

Housing can leak: not sure if mine does, but have seen them. Leak fuel as they won't seal or leak in air to the fuel system

Better filtration: well just better I guess? Lol
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#12
Meh. I can agree its probably less prone to air leaks but theres no proof of it being better at filtration/flow at all. And then theres also the lack of heating element for veg users.

Can you get after market heated ones? Or wrap it in an electric blanket? Tongue
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#13
Lack of proof to flowing better... Read my above post
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#14
(13-08-2013, 01:31 PM)ginge191 Wrote: Lack of proof to flowing better... Read my above post

That's a specific observation to one case Ginge?

Hardly accounts for the other 100,000 XUD's produced?

Not trying to troll, just saying. Blush

I'm probably wrong - but I can't remember seeing any flow specific tests where readings have been taken..
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#15
Iirc most who have moved to inline have seen some benefit.

And as regards to the standard one for veg users being heated, Sam and Ginge both run veg with these filters, I know others do too.


Sam/Ginge any issues?
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#16
(13-08-2013, 01:35 PM)silverzx Wrote:
(13-08-2013, 01:31 PM)ginge191 Wrote: Lack of proof to flowing better... Read my above post

That's a specific observation to one case Ginge?

Hardly accounts for the other 100,000 XUD's produced?

Not trying to troll, just saying. Blush

I'm probably wrong - but I can't remember seeing any flow specific tests where readings have been taken..


Ok, lets roll with that.

How was my previous setup (standard) different to the 100,000 other XUD's produced - besides higher fueling?
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#17
IMO stick with standard. The thermostat will need modifying to heat full time but this is straight forward. Remove the 10mm bolt in the centre to remove the housing, clean up the base, and refit with some gasket seal. Thermostat can be sealed up with some araldite once modified, water sensor (if fitted) and drain plug can likewise be sealed up. No more air leaks. I've never had a problem with fuel flow even on WVO and ragging it to 5k. If for some reason you wanted better flow a lot of 2.1 TD's have a larger housing and filter which would bolt straight on to a 1.9 and you retain the benefits of the built in heat exchanger which is essential in winter (again, IMO).
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#18
^^^ I did this (penny fits lovely in the stat) and never had issues again.
took about 30min
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#19
Modify the thermostat? WhyV
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#20
(14-08-2013, 11:00 AM)Matt Wrote: Modify the thermostat? WhyV

the idea is that the thermostat in the side of the fuel housing lets fuel flow underneath the housing to be heated by the top rad pipe, when it gets warm enough it bypasses it and just goes through the filter, if running veg you want it to be warmed 24/7 . . . .Smile
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#21
Ahhhh I see. Any pics of this thermostat?
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#22
(14-08-2013, 11:53 AM)Matt Wrote: Ahhhh I see. Any pics of this thermostat?

i don't think i have mate, there is a white bit on the lower left hand side of the housing as you look at it, it has a little metal retaining ring on the outside on close inspection, remove that without losing it (better to remove the whole housing tbh) and the thermostat will pull out with a pair of pliers, it is the O ring on this thermostat that leaks 99% of the time . . Smile
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#23
yeah at back, on lower half.

remove, make sure its always going via heater with a glued in 1p piece.

seal it all in. job done
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#24
http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Filter_...nd_Citroen
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#25
(14-08-2013, 06:03 PM)ally406 Wrote: http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Filter_...nd_Citroen

some decent info on there . . .Smile
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#26
Pretty sweet info ThumbsUp
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