Best ways to remove turbo

[HDIkyle]

I need to remove mine and weld.the wastegate. What's the best way to go about this with the engine In the car? People say top but it looks far too tight with the engine tilted back. Ideally need it done in a day so the less stripping and messing the better

[Dave]

You literally just need to pin it closed, so a tiny tack on the arm on the outside will be fine... some people weld all the way around the flap and I never understood the obsession with that.

[Ricky]

Put a jack under the engine, support the weight. Remove top engine mount, lower jack to pull engine forward. Then you need to remove the inlet manifold studs from the engine to get the manifold off, then remove turbo manifold studs, remove downpipe and oil feeds, then lift out. If its a standard turbo then there is plenty of room like this.

[bigcheez2k3]

I undid the top engine mount and pulled the engine forwards. Easier with 2 as one can pull the engine while the other manoeuvres the turbo, although it is possible with one as I had to do it, just involved using an extension bar to hold the engine forward.

That was with a TD04 so if you're talking about a standard one it will be easier as they're a tad smaller.

[HDIkyle]

TD04 it is. Why do people weld the whole flap then surely it means none leaks

[ConorTRG]

I rather take them out from the bottom.

[ozonehostile]

what ricky said, we removed the gt20 off his old car no problems by simply undoing the top mount and using a jack

[ginge191]

USE THIS


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBi2hBaYzIs

[Dave]

Your wastegate when its closed will mean no leaks.. totally pointless welding all around the flap, it wont leak thats what its for... just the actuator lets it open when theres pressure. Tacking it shut would just be like holding the flap closed IE de-wastegating...

[Jenkosowls]

For sake of 30 secs work may as well just weld all way round a tack moves once cooled and on cast could crack with the hot and cold. If people are wanting to keep the turbo and possibly return to standard threaded bar to replace the actuator and tighten it up with 2 bolts that what I did with the t25

[anto]

If you tack the arm on the outside then you wouldnt be welding to any cast iron.
I just made up a bracket out of an old actuator which holds the wastegate shut and i can refit a wastegate if required.