Help, broke down!

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Help, broke down!
Hmmmm this could be something

http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/Topic99206.aspx

Didnt know the Central locking controlled the immobiliser? Someone says near the bottom of the thread.

Anyway the past couple of weeks the central locking on the drivers side have been playing up (when I try to lock with the key it would lock then re open ) so I wonder?
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That sounds like a door loom issue tbh if its locking and unlocking.
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Yeh thats what I thought but xan it stop the car from starting as ihave never heard of that?
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I don't know. I didn't think so as you can obviously drive the car with the doors locked, thought the immob was only deactivated by putting the key (immob chip) near the pick-up ring around the ignition barrel.
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That's what I thought mate.
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So had someone round today with pp2k and he couldn't find any problem apart from something to do with the fuel pressure being -20 or something. He has gone back and going to discuss it with andy off of here and let me know. There thinking fuel pump I think but as we say it should probably of frown a code for it but you never know with these cars do you.
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If it was showing -20 as fuel pressure then it follows the sensor is your issue, you can't get negative fuel pressure lol. However, you've tested the sensor and that checks out fine, based on that it's either wiring or your ecu... You checked the wiring didn't you?
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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(19-05-2013, 06:20 PM)Poodle Wrote: If it was showing - something as fuel pressure then it follows the sensor is your issue, you can't get negative fuel pressure lol. However, you've tested the sensor and that checks out fine, based on that it's either wiring or your ecu... You checked the wiring didn't you?

Im not 100% what he said but he is going to do me a full pdf so I will let you know but it was defiantly - somethimg fuel pressure. He said it should be 0? Yes I checked it and it did check out fine.
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Fuel pressure should be ~300bar, not 0 lol.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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Edit

He has just text me what it said

The difference between fuel pressure measured and fuel pressure recommendation was -296 bar(s)

?????
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Ah ok, that means the frps is showing 0bar pressure. What i said still stands, so now it can only be the ecu.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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Can you elaborate please mate as doesn't it have to be 300 to start?
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Yes it does, but you say the frps and the wiring both tested fine, therefore the only remaining option to be at fault is the ecu.

You said the frps showed 1.3v, this represents ~300bar, so you know the frps is reading correctly. However, the ecu says 0bar pressure, which means the signal isn't being correctly read. It can't be wiring at fault as you've tested that too, therefore it must be the ecu. According to what we've been through here anyway.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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(19-05-2013, 07:38 PM)Poodle Wrote: Yes it does, but you say the frps and the wiring both tested fine, therefore the only remaining option to be at fault is the ecu.

You said the frps showed 1.3v, this represents ~300bar, so you know the frps is reading correctly. However, the ecu says 0bar pressure, which means the signal isn't being correctly read. It can't be wiring at fault as you've tested that too, therefore it must be the ecu. According to what we've been through here anyway.

O right yeh that makes sense. How do you know the ecu measures 0bar? What does -296 mean?

Im confused Confused

If you go on the "other" forum in the hdi section where my thread is, he has posted a screen shot.
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300bar - 296bar = 4 bar. Near enough 0 lol. Smile Its not exactly 300bar anyway, hence the ~.

I wonder if the force has broken a solder in the ECU if this is the issue. Time to swap with another I guess!
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Screen shot

   

Why does it say cam/crank sensor synchronization = no??

So what do I need to do in terms of a new ecu. I know I can get a unlocked plug&play one for about £200 but I would rather not pay that much.i have seen ecus on ebay for about £40 would I need to get this coded with my key or whatever?
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Hmm, not sure, I haven't used PP. But from that it looks like it was tested without cranking? Surely you're not gonna get the pressures and synch's at that point? You've confused me now too haha.


If you were to get a replacement ECU, the easiest thing to do is get one from a scrap car, with the BSI unit (black box under dash) and key fobs. It should all be plug and play then I think.
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(19-05-2013, 09:00 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Hmm, not sure, I haven't used PP. But from that it looks like it was tested without cranking? Surely you're not gonna get the pressures and synch's at that point? You've confused me now too haha.


If you were to get a replacement ECU, the easiest thing to do is get one from a scrap car, with the BSI unit (black box under dash) and key fobs. It should all be plug and play then I think.

Yeh it was all without cranking mate so yeh im confused too.

Which is the black box? The part around the key barrel?

Edit

Actually the fuel pressures at key turn 2 doesn't it so that can be read without cranking?!
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The black box is under the stereo/heater area, its literally a black box, about 3" square, you probably won't have seen it unless you've looked for it though.


The low pressure fuel pump primes the system at 'ignition' (key 2) however the engine has to be turning over to spin the high pressure pump which pressurises the fuel rail.
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Ah I see, yeah you need to be cranking for live data to be any real use. It seems odd that it reckon its 296bar under requested pressure though, as it shouldnt be requesting anything if its not running or trying to start. You wont see anything apart from 3bar on the second turn, as thats what the lift pump produces, obviously wont see pressure from the hp pump because its crank driven.

You can get an ecu company to repair and unlock your ecu for about £100, I think prosteve may offer the service too. However, I think youd be better off testing it properly with pp2k first though, theres some online guides to explain to your mate what he should be doing with it, Niall has put one up in our own guide section.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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(20-05-2013, 09:25 AM)Poodle Wrote: Ah I see, yeah you need to be cranking for live data to be any real use. It seems odd that it reckon its 296bar under requested pressure though, as it shouldnt be requesting anything if its not running or trying to start. You wont see anything apart from 3bar on the second turn, as thats what the lift pump produces, obviously wont see pressure from the hp pump because its crank driven.

You can get an ecu company to repair and unlock your ecu for about £100, I think prosteve may offer the service too. However, I think youd be better off testing it properly with pp2k first though, theres some online guides to explain to your mate what he should be doing with it, Niall has put one up in our own guide section.

Yeh its strange it says that, so should he crank it and see what it says? Its just he says on his car (a 307) it says 0 when just at position 2?

Yeh I will leave the ecu for now until he has done live data.

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You've got it mate, and yeah i'd also expect req pressure to be 0 with the key at position two, still looking like its the ecu tbh. Dont know there's much else you can do to confirm that really...
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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Well just double checked the frps and I its 1.3 cranking so does that rule out a fueling problem? Also if it was the injectors then it would throw a faul wouldn't it? He cant get back until Thursday for live testing so I might bite the bullet and get a ecu although the scrappys I have rang dont have everything I need?!
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Yeah that pretty much rules out a fuelling problem. That would depend on what was wrong with the injectors, but its fairly unusual for them to throw an independent code, normally they'll put up p0230 like amything else under par in the fuelling system.

No point getting another ecu, just send away your current one, that way you dont have to f*ck about getting the bsi, new maps, etc as well.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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Yeh true mate but how do I know if they can fix it? Is it just a set price to repair and unlock?
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Same as most things mate, if you dont know you just have to trust, I didnt like doing it any more than you, but it seemed to fix my problem. I dont know if its a set price, youd have to ask.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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Jusy looking about sorting the ecu now.

Just thought tho, I don't know if its worth mentioning but I had the fuel pump primary circuit with the em light on for a couple of months before this. It would cut out sometimes when I booted it. Dont know if this is relayed. I know the fault hasnt come back up but it never used to until the engine ran.
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Just swap the damn lift pump, they only cost a tenner 2nd hand! lol
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Yeh but it can't be the be the lift pump if I am getting correct cranking fuel pressure?!
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Have you actually checked that the cam/crank is in time, hence why the synchronization would be out?

Something definitely sounds fishy, though...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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