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My EGR plug has been disconnected a while but I'd like to do something with the actual pipe so that if and when I swap to my non EGR Xantia manifold I don't have to mess about changing the EGR exhaust manifold.
I think I remember reading somewhere that it isn't that strong and that you can squish it closed with some pliers and then put sealant over either end?
Does anyone have any simple methods which can be done with everyday tools (e.g. not a welder)?
Many thanks!
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take the valve out of the exhaust manifold, weld it shut and bolt back into place, once you have changed the inlet manifold remove the pipe from the valve, job done
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mark_airey Wrote:take the valve out of the exhaust manifold, weld it shut and bolt back into place, once you have changed the inlet manifold remove the pipe from the valve, job done
No welder available Mark!
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Take the valve off and somehow lamper it in a high temp adhesive so it's stuck closed... Should be OK that way.
If it releases it makes a horrific noise though, hissing crackling noise under boost and the cabin fills with coal. Make sure you do it well enough first time round.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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Ruan Wrote:Take the valve off and somehow lamper it in a high temp adhesive so it's stuck closed... Should be OK that way.
If it releases it makes a horrific noise though, hissing crackling noise under boost and the cabin fills with coal. Make sure you do it well enough first time round.
I don't quite understand what you mean Ruan? And when you say take the valve off are we talking inlet end?
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silverzx Wrote:Ruan Wrote:Take the valve off and somehow lamper it in a high temp adhesive so it's stuck closed... Should be OK that way.
If it releases it makes a horrific noise though, hissing crackling noise under boost and the cabin fills with coal. Make sure you do it well enough first time round.
I don't quite understand what you mean Ruan? And when you say take the valve off are we talking inlet end?
The 'valve' is on the exhaust manifold. The only thing on the inlet end it the hard metal tube (~1" thick) which comes from the valve on the exhaust mani.
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Dan! Wrote:silverzx Wrote:I don't quite understand what you mean Ruan? And when you say take the valve off are we talking inlet end?
The 'valve' is on the exhaust manifold. The only thing on the inlet end it the hard metal tube (~1" thick) which comes from the valve on the exhaust mani.
Lol cheers Dan, I'm a bit of a spanner when it comes to anything I've not looked into before.
Is it easy to get off? I'm guessing getting underneath would be the best route?
Also, when I remove my inlet should I block/crush/seal/etc the 1" pipe as best as I can?
Sorry if I'm testing anyones patience but it doesn't really make all that much sense to me as to how it works!
Edit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRprG7nXPTk
Errr.
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Im too nice.....
Make a bit more sense? Obviously I didnt draw it quite how its laid out in the engine bay, but that should help you see how it works and let you work out which bit you want to block/take off etc. I think its easier to get to from the top tbh. All you gotta remove is the plastic intake pipe from the air filter -> turbo, the one which runs along the back of the TMIC/inlet and you should be able to reach it all fairly easily.
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The valve is held in by 2 x allen bolts and is on the top of the exhaust manifold, once the valve is sealed shut just remove the pipe from the valve after you change the manifold, otherwise you will have a big hole in your inlet manifold and it won't hold boost too well.
As for how they work, basicly the valve lets exhaust gasses back into the inlet manifold (via the metal pipe) to soot up all the inlet side of things.
Edit: Dan, that diagram is awesome! it looks like my 4 year old son drew it ROFL
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mark_airey Wrote:Edit: Dan, that diagram is awesome! it looks like my 4 year old son drew it ROFL
:dance:
Look, theres only so much detail and accuracy I can use when im drawing it at my desk at work Cut me some slack :violin:
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Dan! Wrote::dance:
Look, theres only so much detail and accuracy I can use when im drawing it at my desk at work Cut me some slack :violin:
Its probably clearer than my description though :roll:
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Na that's brilliant boys! :-) Nice one Dan!
I presume this is the valve in the "closed" position. So it would be a matter of squirting a load of silicone sealant over and around it?
Blue ring: area to apply sealant.
Red ring: doesn't need to be blocked providing the blue ring area is sealed tight/correctly?
Please correct me if I'm wrong!
Thanks Dan and Mark.
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Correctomundo
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I would rep you if I could but we haven't got that implemented yet right?
That little area I ringed with blue looks so small and also as its a flat surface so the sealant won't have much to grip to.
Is this tried and tested method? I imagine the EGR shouldn't move anyway seeing as its unplugged so it shouldn't be that much of an issue?
That brings me back to Ruans comment, if this did for some reason blow upon from boost then it would just be causing a major leak from the hot side of the turbo correct? Which in effect would still be drivable but would require immediate attention.
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As above, this is correct, but don't remove the metal pipe until you swap your inlet manifold as I said in my last post or you will have an epic boost leak
Edit:- and I wouldn't use silicone, it needs to be heat resistant epoxy stuff if you can't weld it, also if it was to open again its after the turbo so just a massive exhaust leak and a cabin full of coal, you would know about it!!
Another alternative is to make a metal plate the same size as the bottom of the valve and bolt it on in place of the valve with some instant gasket
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mark_airey Wrote:As above, this is correct, but don't remove the metal pipe until you swap your inlet manifold as I said in my last post or you will have an epic boost leak
Edit:- and I wouldn't use silicone, it needs to be heat resistant epoxy stuff if you can't weld it, also if it was to open again its after the turbo so just a massive exhaust leak and a cabin full of coal, you would know about it!!
Another alternative is to make a metal plate the same size as the bottom of the valve and bolt it on in place of the valve with some instant gasket
I thought this black silicone stuff is supposed to be super heat resistant. I'll check the box later.. epoxy looks cheap enough though if you vouch for it then I could buy a tube!
A palte would defiantly be a better solution which I suppose I could do if I got a spare EGR from a scrappy.. :think:
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I'm vouching for nothing, mine was welded
Just get some steel plate, when you change your inlet manifold unbolt the egr valve and cut out a plate roughly the same size as the valve and drill 2 holes in it in the same place as the EGR and bolt into place
Thinking about it my old manifold might be lying around in my workshop, I will have a look later, you can always have the plate off that if its there!
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mark_airey Wrote:I'm vouching for nothing, mine was welded
Just get some steel plate, when you change your inlet manifold unbolt the egr valve and cut out a plate roughly the same size as the valve and drill 2 holes in it in the same place as the EGR and bolt into place
Thinking about it my old manifold might be lying around in my workshop, I will have a look later, you can always have the plate off that if its there!
Legend!!!! :dance:
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silverzx Wrote:Legend!!!! :dance:
I'll warn you now, its not pretty but it works
will let you know later
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My thinking entirely ROFL
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*Just so you know, I haven't forgotten about this, just not had time to look for you yet
Worst comes to the worst I will make you one because i'm nice and all that
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Lol, theres no rush mate. Your my man.
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