(21-10-2021, 07:44 AM)Mighty306 Wrote: Hi Steve. I have a static copy of Servicebox which runs in a virtual machine on an old laptop. I have to admit I can't often be bothered to dig it out to look stuff up but as far as I can tell the part you need is 2150 Z0 (that's a zero at the end).
There are quite a few available on eBay peugeot 2150.z0 | eBay. It's worth double-checking checking here that the aftermarket parts listed are true analogues for 2150 Z0 PEUGEOT 2150Z0 Clutch Cable - Auto Part Info
There is a website here where you can currently still look things up. Catalog PEUGEOT 306 (RESTYLING) (ilcats.ru). I don't fully trust it though. For the HDi it brought up a clutch diagram with a different part number to the one above. Further research showed it was a cable for a 1.4 petrol model! Anyway, use at your own caution.
Cheers
Mighty306
Many thanks again.
The 2150.Z0 exactly matched the original clutch cable for the DW10 HDI 90 Year2000.
It was an aboslute ball ache replacing the cable.
[1] I could not withdraw the clutch cable from out of the bulk head. After the cable was fitted at the factory, they installed
two air con pipes directly in front of the cable where it enters the bulkhead. I loosened the nearby air con pipe bracket, but still could not move the pipes out of the way. I am not strong, and there was not much room to move my hand once I got it in the narrow space. The air con no longer worked on my 21 year old 306, so I decided to cut the pipes. It took over an hour to cut the pipes in 4 places and eventually extricate them and get them out of the way. The cable could then be easily removed from the bulk head.
[2] After withdrawing the cable from the bulk head I proceeded to remove it from behind the engine. I thought I was home and dry at that point. The cable passes through a small gap between the engine cylinder block, the rear engine mounting link, and the subframe. The threaded end of the bolt securing the rear mounting link to the subframe was sticking up in the gap and preventing the cable from passing through the gap. There was no way on earth that it would pass through the gap. I was ready to cry at this point. What a complete and utter ball ache. I placed a wide block of wood on the 306 jack, and snugged it up to support the sump. I then removed the nut from the engine mounting bolt, and screwed the bolt down and out of the way. I then jacked up the engine another 5-10mm, to open up the gap for the clutch cable.
Finally got it fitted and working.
However, I discovered that the release mechanism arm rattles about and the mechanism must be badly worn or broken. It takes a tremendous force to get the arm moving, which is why the old clutch cable broke.
So, I am going to have to replace all of the clutch parts in the next week or so.
Steve