So you can see in the pic below the rubber donut that goes on the turbo inlet side is broken.
The engine and box look pretty leak free.
Both P bushes are split, I've got some new wishbones to go on so that will be sorted soon.
What is the point in having larger pipe if they are going to reduce it that much when it goes in the box.
GMax gas dampers fitted on the back but N/S doesn't damp at all, so both need replacing.
Fitted replacement seat
Tonight I replaced the drivers side loom as there were some locking issues and some other wiring related issues.
The loom taped up.
Dodgy bits of taping
Some wires that weren't connected that caused the N/S mirror not to work and the locking issues I had.
Crappy soldering that just pulled apart, also notice how black the copper is. I think this was the cause of my drivers electric window working really slowly. I think the bad joint was causing high resistance and burning the wire and not enough power to get throught the window motor.
Night shot
My finished loom all soldered properly and covered with heat shrink.
I've still got a locking issue but now it's with the deadlocking, I can deadlock from the drivers door but I can't then undeadlock it but the remote central locking all works fine now. The N/S mirror works and the driver window goes up and down quickly.
I've got a strange issue with the interior light, it doesn't turn off when the doors are closed so I think I might have got a couple of wires wrong in the rush to complete the job. I will look into this tomorrow.
The engine and box look pretty leak free.
Both P bushes are split, I've got some new wishbones to go on so that will be sorted soon.
What is the point in having larger pipe if they are going to reduce it that much when it goes in the box.
GMax gas dampers fitted on the back but N/S doesn't damp at all, so both need replacing.
Fitted replacement seat
Tonight I replaced the drivers side loom as there were some locking issues and some other wiring related issues.
The loom taped up.
Dodgy bits of taping
Some wires that weren't connected that caused the N/S mirror not to work and the locking issues I had.
Crappy soldering that just pulled apart, also notice how black the copper is. I think this was the cause of my drivers electric window working really slowly. I think the bad joint was causing high resistance and burning the wire and not enough power to get throught the window motor.
Night shot
My finished loom all soldered properly and covered with heat shrink.
I've still got a locking issue but now it's with the deadlocking, I can deadlock from the drivers door but I can't then undeadlock it but the remote central locking all works fine now. The N/S mirror works and the driver window goes up and down quickly.
I've got a strange issue with the interior light, it doesn't turn off when the doors are closed so I think I might have got a couple of wires wrong in the rush to complete the job. I will look into this tomorrow.