03-01-2014, 06:15 PM
not done much in the last few weeks so I better get my finger out, unfortunately my DIY lower rear bush as failed as predicted (ripthrough) the resin did indeed break away from the rubber oh it was worth a try, spoox uprated item ordered, another job that as been started and not yet finished is the relocating of the battery to the boot, battery is now mounted in a sealed battery box set in the boot floor today I've been making up 175amp Anderson plug terminated cables so I can easily jump start the car if required I now just need to run the main power cable to the front of the car I just need to work out where to fit the cut off switch, it needs to be in a position so that both myself and my co-driver can reach it while harnessed in I'll have a sit in tomorrow and see where would be suitable, anyway more in line with the original thread I also decided to strip down my damaged Koni struts
![[Image: 2014-01-02161124_zpsda8609e3.jpg]](http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee300/budd_album/2014-01-02161124_zpsda8609e3.jpg)
placed strut in vice undid retaining collar, looking at the collar I'd guess there's a special twin pronged tool probably like a angle grinder tool but in a absence of a dedicated tool some big stillsons soon had the retaining collar off and insert out
![[Image: 2014-01-02161534_zps2a7f0bb8.jpg]](http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee300/budd_album/2014-01-02161534_zps2a7f0bb8.jpg)
construction is much like a motorcycle fork, damping insert with oil in the bottom of the strut leg,
![[Image: 2014-01-02161600_zpse99c60f7.jpg]](http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee300/budd_album/2014-01-02161600_zpse99c60f7.jpg)
looks pretty straight forward (although I'm not sure what the spring around the base is for??) and despite damage to the strut body the internals seem fine and while I'm sure the internals could be stripped further I can't see much point tinkering with the damping valve assemblies, the basic characteristics of the damper can be tuned by changing the oil viscosity and air gap just like a basic m/c fork, for further adjustment I'd have to differ to someone who knows what they are doing.
Next step is to get one of the coilovers off the car and strip the insert out of that and see if there's any chance of inserting the Koni internals into the TA technics body, I know it's a long shot that they would be even broadly similar never mind interchangeable but it worth a look, although I'm not holding my breath
![[Image: 2014-01-02161124_zpsda8609e3.jpg]](http://s235.photobucket.com/user/budd_album/media/2014-01-02161124_zpsda8609e3.jpg.html)
placed strut in vice undid retaining collar, looking at the collar I'd guess there's a special twin pronged tool probably like a angle grinder tool but in a absence of a dedicated tool some big stillsons soon had the retaining collar off and insert out
![[Image: 2014-01-02161534_zps2a7f0bb8.jpg]](http://s235.photobucket.com/user/budd_album/media/2014-01-02161534_zps2a7f0bb8.jpg.html)
construction is much like a motorcycle fork, damping insert with oil in the bottom of the strut leg,
![[Image: 2014-01-02161600_zpse99c60f7.jpg]](http://s235.photobucket.com/user/budd_album/media/2014-01-02161600_zpse99c60f7.jpg.html)
looks pretty straight forward (although I'm not sure what the spring around the base is for??) and despite damage to the strut body the internals seem fine and while I'm sure the internals could be stripped further I can't see much point tinkering with the damping valve assemblies, the basic characteristics of the damper can be tuned by changing the oil viscosity and air gap just like a basic m/c fork, for further adjustment I'd have to differ to someone who knows what they are doing.
Next step is to get one of the coilovers off the car and strip the insert out of that and see if there's any chance of inserting the Koni internals into the TA technics body, I know it's a long shot that they would be even broadly similar never mind interchangeable but it worth a look, although I'm not holding my breath