09-12-2011, 06:03 PM
08/01/2010
Compleeted!
Its done at my end. All down to KrisB now.
Quick pic of my exhaust. 3" bore and TBH looks like it should of been put on a bus.
Right putting pistons in. Cleaned the bores with WD40 and a clean rag. I put some short lenghts of hose over the con rod bolts to stop them accidentially dinking the crank as i tapped them in. Clipped the correct bearing into the rod and lubed the bearing. I then stuck my hand in the 10w40 and speared all around inside the bore and the ring compressor to ease the instalation. It really is easy, clamp the ring as tight as you can, put it in making sure its the right way round for the valve cut outs and tap it in with a hammer handle and it really is just taps.
Got the head back, its fully ported, blended, gasket matched and got 5 angle valve seats. best of all i was told that cos it was done on the machine the valves didnt need grinding in. saves me a job then.
09/01/2010
On with the head then. dipped the valve stem oil seals in 10w40 and pushed them over the valve stems. Next got my neatly numbered box and pulled springs and caps out of it one by one and compressed tham onto their corresponding valve. All i can say is its an absolute pain in the arse to get collets onto the valve. took me about a hour to do all 8. I found the best thing to work on was a wood work bench as that has a gap in he middle for the compressor to hang through but still keeping the head flat.
Next hydraulic tappets. I was told to check if they were squidgy and push the old oil out of them, using a vice if necessary but TBH they were all so nice with so little oil i think theyd been done for me and they forgot. Dipped them in oil ad dropped them in their corresponding hole then clipped the rocker on top.
Old and new rail sensors.
After this i lubed up the cam carrier and head bearing and also put some blue gasket round the cam carrier edge too. torqued that up in sequence then moved onto the ancilaries. bolted in new bosch duraterms, 60k injectors, leak off pipes, vaccume pump, cam pulley etc.
Finishing up i put on the crank oil seals and had to angle tighten the rod bolts. I couldnt be bothered to use a breaker bar so i got the protractor and marked 2 lines 70deg apart on an impact wrench socket. put the socket on noting where the line lined up with then pulled the trigger till the next line appeared at the mark. so much easier. Bolted on the oil pump and dip stick tube and thats about it really.
Plenty of things for Kris to do.
Compleete (for me) pics
KrisB
Right then, the car is with me at the moment. So i might aswell take over the project thread for a bit, i'll try and take the laptiop into work to, a) because i need autodata and b) incase i need to look anything up. Meaning i can get the job done quicker and when i'm drinking tea i can update you lot.
2moro is going to be a case making a start on the massive list of things chris has given me to do, all in the way he wants me to do it too. I need to get the block out of the car and measure up to find out what size head gasket i need. Then i'll probably crack on with all the other bits which aren't engine related, like seat subframes, make up the exhaust system for him, get the saxo powersteering pump up and running etc.
Once i've got a good enough headgasket i'll be getting the engine together and building up as much as possible, before removing the old engine. In the process fit his new radiator, oil catch tank and so on.
I know there's a lot more than the above to be done, i've only glanced at the first PAGE of the BOOK he's written me....
To be continued, with lots of pics and updates 2moro!
13/01/2010
KrisB
right, finally managed to get the oil cooler in, first time round after spending ages making brackets and tripple checking it'll fit... The electric power steering pump is now in, pipes modified and all connected, just got to sort the electrics but thats minor.
Just about to get chris's selection of gauges wired in and pipes ran to the engine compartment ready for when the engine goes back in. Chris should be here in a couple of hours with these last few bits. I've found someone who will weld the cast exhaust manifold for me (properly) so that means i can get the wastegate pipe on, heading over towards the battery tray then the screamer pipe can point down to the floor by the passenger front wheel, wastegate easy to get at in this position. I think i'll need to either remove or move the water heater (glowplug thingy on top of the gearbox) otherwise the wastegate won't fit.
Phoned round a few places today and i'm really struggling to find a 1.5mm mls headgasket. If anyone know where i can get one them we would appreciate it lots!
Anyway, although today has been slow i've got the two main things in that i wanted to get in today and if i'm honest i think i've done a reasonably good job on most stuff, the cable ties around the pump are needed, you can't just use the one pump bracket on its own but having two brackets means the headlight won't fit. I'll upload some pics shortly, i'm at the workshop now so internet is very poor!
Right, couple of pics.
Oil cooler fitted, took ages to get it lined up and held in place ready to measure and make brackets for it. I think the pics do the talking here.
i cant see any problems with the cooler where it is. I'm going to modify the arch liner so it allows airflow but doesnt let dirt in. If anything i would say it's better where it is at the moment because it's away from other heat sources. The fogs are coming out which will help.
It wont affect airflow to the brakes at all! The arch liner will when it goes back in, standard or modified. Airflow doesnt really matter over the oil cooler. The fins are what do the cooling, dispersing the heat from the pipes inside, airflow is beneficial to cool the surrounding areas. Less heatsoak in a way.
Anyways, chris, stop posting on here and hurry up and get to me with these bits! I feel like absolute crap. Bad gut, headache, cough... Last thing i effing need.
I'll do p/s pump pics when i get home, cant be arsed to update as i go. Just gonna crack on with washer bottle then gauges... Might take my mind off feeling so shite.
Finally got the engine in... Powered by krisb! Yo!
na, really, just got some pics from when i was doing the p/s pump. I'll explain as i go with the pics. So, here it goes if anyone else wants future reference.
Disconnect to bracket from the pump.
remove as much material as you can from the bracket. In this picture the bracket is laying on it's back and the pump is upright.
grind a little bit of chassis leg off, i took off a little too much, it's so hard to get the pump sitting like it does when it bolts down without bolthing it down and drilling the holes first. So, i'm gonna rub a weld across what i ground off when the welder is back.
Also, you see in this picture, there is a green wire and a brown plug. You need to ground the green wire somewhere else, i found a point under where the headlight would be, cleaned it up and put a bolt through. The brown plus just unplugs and has no use there, wrap it up in tape so it doesnt fill with water. Also, with the earth point, you need to flatten the pointy bits off so you can get the pump a bit further in.
If you really wanted, you could drill a hole in the inner wing that the pump will fit through... Alowing some of the pump to be in the wing and less under the bonnet.
run the pipes. Drained the metal pipe pipes of oil because you need to get them hot and glowing in a few places to bend/twist it. The rack has been draining onto my floor for the last few days. Good enough. Painted the pipe black after because the paint burns off.
The reason for the cable ties?
Well, simply, if you have both brackets on you can't fit the headlight in. (bad enough you can't get the cover on the headlight!). I get round this problem by cutting the rubbers off one of the metal mounts and attached them to the metal plate. Cable ties are to keep that side under tension otherwise the unit would be loose. A homemade metal sptip would allow vibrations to be passed from the pump to the car, which would give off a humming sound from that corner of the car.
plenty of room (none of the 12 were crushed)
thats it, i'll wire it in when the conduit (cable tidy stuff) i ordered off ebay turns up. It's just black, nothing special.
14/01/2010
KrisB
pics explain whats happening to be honest. Just like doing a jigsaw
i've been cleaning and painting as i go.
Bottom end:
oil spring
torque up the oil pump bolts. (still one snapped... Nearly as bad as the xud rocker covers lol) replaced the snap bolt.
chris's re-enforced sump fitted.
fitting ancilaries.
compare the above picture to what i pulled out of the car!
headgasket is ordered from pug, over £40 bloody quid! It was ordered on vor which doesnt qualify for my discount oh, and new flywheel bolts will be collected with the mls h/g. The fly bolts are supposed to be replaced once they're removed.
Manifold has been taken to the welding shop for blanking off the egr port, then attaching a pipe for the wastegate. Should be ready and delivered back to me 2moro afternoon. Seems to be a good place to get welding done, looks a shithole from the outside but inside hides plenty of top spec lathes, mills, sufrace grinders etc. They do head skims whilst you wait too for £40.
Hopefully 2moro i can get the head on and fit everything bar turbo and exhaust manifold.
Compleeted!
Its done at my end. All down to KrisB now.
Quick pic of my exhaust. 3" bore and TBH looks like it should of been put on a bus.
Right putting pistons in. Cleaned the bores with WD40 and a clean rag. I put some short lenghts of hose over the con rod bolts to stop them accidentially dinking the crank as i tapped them in. Clipped the correct bearing into the rod and lubed the bearing. I then stuck my hand in the 10w40 and speared all around inside the bore and the ring compressor to ease the instalation. It really is easy, clamp the ring as tight as you can, put it in making sure its the right way round for the valve cut outs and tap it in with a hammer handle and it really is just taps.
Got the head back, its fully ported, blended, gasket matched and got 5 angle valve seats. best of all i was told that cos it was done on the machine the valves didnt need grinding in. saves me a job then.
09/01/2010
On with the head then. dipped the valve stem oil seals in 10w40 and pushed them over the valve stems. Next got my neatly numbered box and pulled springs and caps out of it one by one and compressed tham onto their corresponding valve. All i can say is its an absolute pain in the arse to get collets onto the valve. took me about a hour to do all 8. I found the best thing to work on was a wood work bench as that has a gap in he middle for the compressor to hang through but still keeping the head flat.
Next hydraulic tappets. I was told to check if they were squidgy and push the old oil out of them, using a vice if necessary but TBH they were all so nice with so little oil i think theyd been done for me and they forgot. Dipped them in oil ad dropped them in their corresponding hole then clipped the rocker on top.
Old and new rail sensors.
After this i lubed up the cam carrier and head bearing and also put some blue gasket round the cam carrier edge too. torqued that up in sequence then moved onto the ancilaries. bolted in new bosch duraterms, 60k injectors, leak off pipes, vaccume pump, cam pulley etc.
Finishing up i put on the crank oil seals and had to angle tighten the rod bolts. I couldnt be bothered to use a breaker bar so i got the protractor and marked 2 lines 70deg apart on an impact wrench socket. put the socket on noting where the line lined up with then pulled the trigger till the next line appeared at the mark. so much easier. Bolted on the oil pump and dip stick tube and thats about it really.
Plenty of things for Kris to do.
Compleete (for me) pics
KrisB
Right then, the car is with me at the moment. So i might aswell take over the project thread for a bit, i'll try and take the laptiop into work to, a) because i need autodata and b) incase i need to look anything up. Meaning i can get the job done quicker and when i'm drinking tea i can update you lot.
2moro is going to be a case making a start on the massive list of things chris has given me to do, all in the way he wants me to do it too. I need to get the block out of the car and measure up to find out what size head gasket i need. Then i'll probably crack on with all the other bits which aren't engine related, like seat subframes, make up the exhaust system for him, get the saxo powersteering pump up and running etc.
Once i've got a good enough headgasket i'll be getting the engine together and building up as much as possible, before removing the old engine. In the process fit his new radiator, oil catch tank and so on.
I know there's a lot more than the above to be done, i've only glanced at the first PAGE of the BOOK he's written me....
To be continued, with lots of pics and updates 2moro!
13/01/2010
KrisB
right, finally managed to get the oil cooler in, first time round after spending ages making brackets and tripple checking it'll fit... The electric power steering pump is now in, pipes modified and all connected, just got to sort the electrics but thats minor.
Just about to get chris's selection of gauges wired in and pipes ran to the engine compartment ready for when the engine goes back in. Chris should be here in a couple of hours with these last few bits. I've found someone who will weld the cast exhaust manifold for me (properly) so that means i can get the wastegate pipe on, heading over towards the battery tray then the screamer pipe can point down to the floor by the passenger front wheel, wastegate easy to get at in this position. I think i'll need to either remove or move the water heater (glowplug thingy on top of the gearbox) otherwise the wastegate won't fit.
Phoned round a few places today and i'm really struggling to find a 1.5mm mls headgasket. If anyone know where i can get one them we would appreciate it lots!
Anyway, although today has been slow i've got the two main things in that i wanted to get in today and if i'm honest i think i've done a reasonably good job on most stuff, the cable ties around the pump are needed, you can't just use the one pump bracket on its own but having two brackets means the headlight won't fit. I'll upload some pics shortly, i'm at the workshop now so internet is very poor!
Right, couple of pics.
Oil cooler fitted, took ages to get it lined up and held in place ready to measure and make brackets for it. I think the pics do the talking here.
i cant see any problems with the cooler where it is. I'm going to modify the arch liner so it allows airflow but doesnt let dirt in. If anything i would say it's better where it is at the moment because it's away from other heat sources. The fogs are coming out which will help.
It wont affect airflow to the brakes at all! The arch liner will when it goes back in, standard or modified. Airflow doesnt really matter over the oil cooler. The fins are what do the cooling, dispersing the heat from the pipes inside, airflow is beneficial to cool the surrounding areas. Less heatsoak in a way.
Anyways, chris, stop posting on here and hurry up and get to me with these bits! I feel like absolute crap. Bad gut, headache, cough... Last thing i effing need.
I'll do p/s pump pics when i get home, cant be arsed to update as i go. Just gonna crack on with washer bottle then gauges... Might take my mind off feeling so shite.
Finally got the engine in... Powered by krisb! Yo!
na, really, just got some pics from when i was doing the p/s pump. I'll explain as i go with the pics. So, here it goes if anyone else wants future reference.
Disconnect to bracket from the pump.
remove as much material as you can from the bracket. In this picture the bracket is laying on it's back and the pump is upright.
grind a little bit of chassis leg off, i took off a little too much, it's so hard to get the pump sitting like it does when it bolts down without bolthing it down and drilling the holes first. So, i'm gonna rub a weld across what i ground off when the welder is back.
Also, you see in this picture, there is a green wire and a brown plug. You need to ground the green wire somewhere else, i found a point under where the headlight would be, cleaned it up and put a bolt through. The brown plus just unplugs and has no use there, wrap it up in tape so it doesnt fill with water. Also, with the earth point, you need to flatten the pointy bits off so you can get the pump a bit further in.
If you really wanted, you could drill a hole in the inner wing that the pump will fit through... Alowing some of the pump to be in the wing and less under the bonnet.
run the pipes. Drained the metal pipe pipes of oil because you need to get them hot and glowing in a few places to bend/twist it. The rack has been draining onto my floor for the last few days. Good enough. Painted the pipe black after because the paint burns off.
The reason for the cable ties?
Well, simply, if you have both brackets on you can't fit the headlight in. (bad enough you can't get the cover on the headlight!). I get round this problem by cutting the rubbers off one of the metal mounts and attached them to the metal plate. Cable ties are to keep that side under tension otherwise the unit would be loose. A homemade metal sptip would allow vibrations to be passed from the pump to the car, which would give off a humming sound from that corner of the car.
plenty of room (none of the 12 were crushed)
thats it, i'll wire it in when the conduit (cable tidy stuff) i ordered off ebay turns up. It's just black, nothing special.
14/01/2010
KrisB
pics explain whats happening to be honest. Just like doing a jigsaw
i've been cleaning and painting as i go.
Bottom end:
oil spring
torque up the oil pump bolts. (still one snapped... Nearly as bad as the xud rocker covers lol) replaced the snap bolt.
chris's re-enforced sump fitted.
fitting ancilaries.
compare the above picture to what i pulled out of the car!
headgasket is ordered from pug, over £40 bloody quid! It was ordered on vor which doesnt qualify for my discount oh, and new flywheel bolts will be collected with the mls h/g. The fly bolts are supposed to be replaced once they're removed.
Manifold has been taken to the welding shop for blanking off the egr port, then attaching a pipe for the wastegate. Should be ready and delivered back to me 2moro afternoon. Seems to be a good place to get welding done, looks a shithole from the outside but inside hides plenty of top spec lathes, mills, sufrace grinders etc. They do head skims whilst you wait too for £40.
Hopefully 2moro i can get the head on and fit everything bar turbo and exhaust manifold.