05-07-2013, 09:58 PM
Also, looking at them, there's no way they are genuine ARP studs!? They are ARP nuts, but ARPs always have a Hex in the end to put them in the block :/
Problems with installing bolts without washers:
A. The force isn't evenly distributed across the aluminium cylinder head - you'll end up indenting the cylinder head from the force.
B. You will literally have to re-torque the bolts about 10 times as the aluminium will shuffle around since you will have tightened hardened steel against a soft aluminium head, it'll have knurled up the head and moved the ally around, through the next couple of heat cycles, you'll probably find your gasket will leak, they will require re-torquing...
C. You may as well throw what torque you did them up to out the window - again because you tightened against soft aluminium... That's why they even put in packets of ARP Ultra-Torque to lubricate between the two steel surfaces and threads when torquing down, but against aluminium, it'll "smear" the aluminium when coming up to maximum torque - causing all the metal to move, again, meaning you'll need to re-torque, but every time you re-torque, you move the ally around some more, meaning you'll never get a consistent torque setting...
Almost ALL ally cylinder head cars have washers for this reason, even just bolts going into ally stuff will have a washer generally for that precise reason... They DO need washers.
Problems with installing bolts without washers:
A. The force isn't evenly distributed across the aluminium cylinder head - you'll end up indenting the cylinder head from the force.
B. You will literally have to re-torque the bolts about 10 times as the aluminium will shuffle around since you will have tightened hardened steel against a soft aluminium head, it'll have knurled up the head and moved the ally around, through the next couple of heat cycles, you'll probably find your gasket will leak, they will require re-torquing...
C. You may as well throw what torque you did them up to out the window - again because you tightened against soft aluminium... That's why they even put in packets of ARP Ultra-Torque to lubricate between the two steel surfaces and threads when torquing down, but against aluminium, it'll "smear" the aluminium when coming up to maximum torque - causing all the metal to move, again, meaning you'll need to re-torque, but every time you re-torque, you move the ally around some more, meaning you'll never get a consistent torque setting...
Almost ALL ally cylinder head cars have washers for this reason, even just bolts going into ally stuff will have a washer generally for that precise reason... They DO need washers.
