24-03-2013, 02:36 PM
Okay, whilst the driveshaft angles were still just within limits (moving the 'box forwards didn't help them), with the extra power/stress anticipated we had a bit of a question mark over the longevity of the CV joints, they get pretty hot from the transmission loss as it is.
Anyway, after a few weeks thinking about it, we bit the bullet and decided to go with longer driveshafts to reduce the angles. Of course, that means moving the outer CV joint outwards to suit, and the car is already as wide as we can practically go at the rear that becomes a bit more difficult, so, cue shiny bits:
![[Image: DSC00300.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Rippthrough/DSC00300.jpg)
![[Image: DSC00298.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Rippthrough/DSC00298.jpg)
![[Image: DSC00301.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Rippthrough/DSC00301.jpg)
Whacking great spindle/hub that's large enough to pass the CV joint right through, with ally upright to bolt to the rear trailing arms, of course, that means we can't drive the discs off the rear of the spindle any more (The bearing preload nut is there now) hence the ally brake bell instead of bolting them to the rear of the hubs as presently.
The CV then bolts up to a machined drive ring that is clamped down on by the wheel:
![[Image: DSC00303.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Rippthrough/DSC00303.jpg)
Although, I'm not sure whether to just ditch that and drill the wheels to bolt the the CV's directly to them - we've never broken a wheel yet so I think it'd be okay - just makes wheel changes more of a hassle.
Anyway, after a few weeks thinking about it, we bit the bullet and decided to go with longer driveshafts to reduce the angles. Of course, that means moving the outer CV joint outwards to suit, and the car is already as wide as we can practically go at the rear that becomes a bit more difficult, so, cue shiny bits:
![[Image: DSC00300.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Rippthrough/DSC00300.jpg)
![[Image: DSC00298.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Rippthrough/DSC00298.jpg)
![[Image: DSC00301.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Rippthrough/DSC00301.jpg)
Whacking great spindle/hub that's large enough to pass the CV joint right through, with ally upright to bolt to the rear trailing arms, of course, that means we can't drive the discs off the rear of the spindle any more (The bearing preload nut is there now) hence the ally brake bell instead of bolting them to the rear of the hubs as presently.
The CV then bolts up to a machined drive ring that is clamped down on by the wheel:
![[Image: DSC00303.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Rippthrough/DSC00303.jpg)
Although, I'm not sure whether to just ditch that and drill the wheels to bolt the the CV's directly to them - we've never broken a wheel yet so I think it'd be okay - just makes wheel changes more of a hassle.
Custom roll cages/shiny suspension bits/general fabrication work undertaken, PM me.
Top engine mount repair/reinforcement/chocking for cracked chassis and high powered cars, drive in, drive out, 2 hour turnaround.
Top engine mount repair/reinforcement/chocking for cracked chassis and high powered cars, drive in, drive out, 2 hour turnaround.