(06-01-2013, 04:56 PM)Kwik Wrote: 40mm is fine any lower and it won't be a sleeper people will expect it to move faster cause it's extra lowNah TBH most people just assume shit looking old cars that are low are broken, especially on steels and blowing coal.
(06-01-2013, 04:57 PM)cwspellowe Wrote: You just stripped the rubber off an old tyre valve then aye?
That's the main thing i'm uneasy about with the new setup, not knowing what the trigger psi's are and having to set it really conservative for first run. I predict epic coal for the first few runs
MBC is located up by the top engine mount so not too much of a fiddle thankfully, f*ck tuning it off the wastegate though in this cold and damp weather
Yeah I used one off the bike as they use a thinner rubber by the looks of it.
Cut most of the rubber off with an Irwin knife then finished it off with a file.
Softened the end of the poly in a cup of boiling water, had to expand it with a bradle then push it over the end of the valve.
(06-01-2013, 05:12 PM)Piggy1987 Wrote: really cant wait to see your VNT control...theres a guy who has posted quite a bit on the net who has refined a combined mechanical/boost actuated vnt control...very cleverMy VNT control is gonna be alot like me, simple and effective.
After speaking to Ruan theres no way im attempting electric and TBH I understand some of the reasons why you want the vanes open at idle but alot of it is about making sure the vanes get moved alot so they dont coke up but Im pretty confident I can hit full boost every time I drive the car so I aint gonna have that worry.
Have been discussing it with Max a bit as he has a very similar VNT for his car.
(06-01-2013, 05:13 PM)cwspellowe Wrote: That's always been the way forward for controlling a VNT mechanically. The problem is calculating springrates to get it working properly.Agreed, I dont see the point in having all the glory's of mechanical injection only to add electrics to it.