HDi Clutch Change

[Jonny81191]

This is the one from .net, big thanks to Tenson for posting it up!



I recently changed the clutch on my HDI and took some pictures along the way so thought I would share them in the hope it helps others.

First you need to watch the video from DarrenJLobb on youtube, and then these pics should help fill in a few of the blanks.

http://www.youtube.com/user/darrenjl.../3/znGv4LlTYTY

http://www.youtube.com/user/darrenjl...13/5hQjA6KGQts



First of all you need to take the wheels off, and pry the ball-joint shaft from the bottom of the hub. This separates the wish-bone and the hub allowing the hub to be pulled on, taking the drive-shafts out of the gearbox. The ideal tool is a ball-joint separator which I only managed to locate later on in the job! So, for this I used a big bar. hammered between the hub and wishbone and levered them apart. Be careful not to slice the rubber gaiter on the ball joint. To take the bolt out that clamps down on the ball-joint, you need to un-do the nut and then just hit the bolt out with a hammer. It's not threaded in there.





Now you need to drain the transmission oil. There is a sump plug under the gearbox on the passenger side of the car. Take that out and collect the oil. To make the flow smoother, yo can also remove the filling plug on the side of the gearbox pictured here just to the left of the picture center where the nice clean outline is from the missing nut and washer. The bigger hole spot on in the pictures center is where the passenger side drive shaft comes out next.



So now, you can pull on the passenger side wheel-hub and drive shaft to get it to come out the gearbox like this.



Next, go to the drivers side, and it's worth checking that your clutch cable isn't rubbing on the CV boot of the drive shaft like mine was! There is a holder the cable should clip in.



Before the drivers side drive shaft can be pulled out, two bolts that hold the shaft in to a support ring with bearings in it, need to be undone. These are the ones Darren talks about needing to turn 90degrees in his video. I found they need to be un-done nearly all the way, and then the bolts push out towards the drivers side and turn, which allows the drive shaft to pull out of the support ring. I never did get the shaft right out of the gearbox on this side, so I just left it pulled out as much as possible and then took the bell-housing off.



The starter motor also needs to be taken off, and once it's pulled away from the bell-housing should just sit there on top of the engine. Three bolts need to be un-done with an allen key.



To take the three gear linkages off the back of the gearbox was a bit tricky. The two smaller ones can probably just be pulled on, but the main big one needed the ball joint separator. I also needed to put a smaller open-ended spanner on the shaft first, so the ball joint separator had something to work against and not just slide down the shaft. Like this, it was easy.





Continued...

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When taking off all the electric cables, don't forget to un-do the bolt here and push the loom up a bit or it blocks the bell-housing sliding off.



Take the fly-wheel cover off and also the two bolts here to release that brake line.

http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt169...tch/13.jpg

In Darren's video he says to remove the clutch lever with that pin, or it will block the bell-housing coming off, however that is not the case with the HDI. You can just ignore that lever, which is a good thing too as it doesn't come off! Before we take off the bell-housing and the mounting stud that supports it, jack up the engine under the sump.



Now very important, support the bell housing. I think the very best way to do this, is to tie a strong rope around the hole in the housing and the other end around a long, strong bit of wood across the engine bay. This way, it can hang from the wood and won't hit the floor. You can tighten it up by putting a big spanner between the rope and turning it.



Then take the engine mount apart, and you probably need a universal stud remover to get the stud out of the gearbox.



You can now un-do the bolts holding the bell housing on. From memory, there are three accessible from the top of the engine bay, and two more below. One on the bottom is an allen key type. One on top is a pain to get at, but it can be done by using an extension bar and utting the socket on the bolt head first, then sliding the extension bar and ratchet in to place.



We can now slide the bell-housing off. This took a good lot of effort, but it did come. It's probably easier if the drivers side drive shaft was taken right out first but in my case it wasn't. I needed to use a big pry bar to get it off the first couple of inches. Also, you will need to rotate the whole bell-housing anti-clockwise (standing on the passenger side as you would to man-handle the thing) as it comes off, so that the bottom of the gearbox can inch over the top of the sub-frame and the whole thing can move towards the passenger side giving room to access the clutch.

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And here's the rest.


The bolts around the pressure plate can then be un-done with a Torx-40 (IIRC) bit. I had to hold it in a set of mole-grips as there isn't room for a proper handle. Before doing that though, mark the relation of the pressure plate to the fly-wheel. Bit by bit, going around each bolt, the pressure can be taken off, and the plate will come off along with the friction disk.






The bearing also needs to come out, and is found sitting on the shaft in the bell-housing.



Bearing already removed.



To put the new friction disk in place, it needs to be perfectly aligned with the center of the fly-wheel. If, like me, you don't have a tool to do that, you should be able to make one from a socket or two. I found two 7-16th (IIRC) sockets. One fitted nicely in the fly-wheel and the other one fitted nicely in the center of the friction disk. I bolted them together through the middle and used it to align the disk while I was bolting the pressure plate on.





Make sure the pressure plate goes on in the correct way.



Don't forget to put the new bearing on the fork inside the bell housing. it just clips on to the fork.

Finally, put it all back together. It's probably difficult to get the bell-housing on again, but persistence is the key. Also you might get someone to wriggle the drivers side drive shaft to help it go in while you push the bell-housing. The best trick for me, once it was on far enough, was to squeeze a couple of the bolts in, so they could be used to pull it back together slowly while making sure all was in alignment.

I hope that helps and is clear!