Fitting conrods

[Ricky]

Thinking of fitting hdi rods to my XUD, so I don't worry too much about throwing a rod with the td04 on, will only be running up to 25psi so hdi rods should cope with that, i'm thinking anyway.

I will be changing the HG at the same time, so to fit the new rods is it just a case of removing the sump, unbolting from the crank and pushing the old ones out the top, then reverse of this for fitting? Guessing I will need new shells and maybe new piston rings a good idea?

[Ricky]

Anyone?

[ash23]

Sounds about right mate while your there you mayas well put new shells in and piston rings if funds allow

[Ricky]

To be honest I didn't realise how expensive rings are whilst I wrote that! Might leave them..

[mark_airey]

If your not changing the rings make sure that you number the pistons and that they go back into the correct hole

You will also need a piston ring compressor or you aren't getting them back in without a right piss about!

But other than that you have the right idea, bearing cap off, tap rod and piston out of the top of the block.

[Ricky]

Ok cheers, yeah will have a compressor, don't fancy trying to get them back in the bores without one. The bit that holds the piston to the rod, does that just tap out or is it clipped in?

[ginge191]

the gudgeon pin; i've never touched an XUD rod so wouldn't know, but some are just heald in with a circlip, others need pressing in/out.

Sure someone here can verify. Also, remember to use some assembly lube/engine oil as you go to keep everything lubed up .. giggedy.

[mark_airey]

Gudgeon pins are held in with a circlip, prize out with a screwdriver and watch your face and also where it goes when it comes out then just push the pin out, piece of piss

Just make sure you get the piston the correct way round on the rod as the indent in the bearing needs to be facing the correct way!

And as ginge says, make sure that you use plenty of lube, friction burns are never good seriously though, a good coating of clean oil on everything as you assemble it should be fine until the oil gets circulating again.

[ginge191]

siggged

[Dave]

Personally I wouldnt bother with new rings or shells... but then I seem to get through shit quite quickly!... follow what folk have said and make sure you remove the carbon lip on the top of the bore with a bit of high grit before pushing them out, so you dont break any rings and as mark pointed out use alot of oil on re-insertion space your ring gaps apart too...

[Ruan]

I couldn't bare not fitting new rings if the pistons were coming out... You're going to mash the rings getting them out due to the lip at the top/bottom... They're never going to seal like they should afterwards.

But that's just me.

[ginge191]

Rather than starting a new thread and there's some brains here; any idea on removing the XU7JP4 pins; they don't seem to have a circlip..? are they pressed. would like to know this ASAP so i can measure and get some new shinys...

[Ruan]

They'll have a tiny wee clip, it's not got cirlip ends, just a round clip, gotta get a screwdriver in and prise it out.

[CJ_Derv]

I agree with Ruan here, i always fit new rings and hone cylinders out to get rid of this lip, may aswell while your there, my OCD kicks in when buidling blocks soak pistons clean all ring grooves with cutting disk haha,

Try and keep rod caps with the same rod and correct way round marking on removal helps

But other than that piece of cake

[ginge191]

They'll have a tiny wee clip, it's not got cirlip ends, just a round clip, gotta get a screwdriver in and prise it out.

Wee clip?! this northern stuff is getting to you mate...

i'll have another ganders in a moment; i did prize around for a while but couldnt see anything

[samass]

ginge, hammer.

[Ricky]

Cheers guys. will be taking it apart in a few weeks, probably end up breaking something..

[Dave]

I've re-used loads of rings, without honing, just make sure to remove the carbon lip before removing the piston... for an XUD thats worthless, I couldnt bare to spend money on new rings, when on a worn bore, would make very little difference anyway unless you get oversized ones.. and even then it will again make not that much difference. Its a given the caps should all stay the same, as they're ground to match. Issues start on a REALLY worn engine, where there is a noticable lip that you can feel with your nail, and completely glazed/smooth bores but then the rest of the block will be tired anyway and entirely not worth rebuilding. I've personally never broken a ring and have removed a fair few pistons from XUD's and DW10's. If your going all out and chucking hundreds of pounds at a block then you might aswell, but again I've never seen the point, they all seem to perform the same until they get bent rods and dont seal/drop compression.

My 2p anyway.....

[mark_airey]

They'll have a tiny wee clip, it's not got cirlip ends, just a round clip, gotta get a screwdriver in and prise it out.

going off this pic ruan



i would say not, looks like a heat up and hit with hammer job.........

[ginge191]

ginge, hammer.

lol tried this

i'll give it some TLC, maybe take them out for a dinner for 5 and hope they'll get excited and pop out

[samass]

if they are the same design as the xu10s, simple warm up the n push out

[ginge191]

if they are the same design as the xu10s, simple warm up the n push out

...what exactly am i warming up? The rod or pin?

[samass]

put the piston in some warm/hot water, *should* just fall out

[ginge191]

put the piston in some warm/hot water, *should* just fall out

you serious bro .. surely leave it in the sun?!

[mark_airey]

move the piston ginge, if the pin moves with the piston you need to heat the piston up, if the pin stays still and the piston moves around the pin then the little end needs heating, basically whichever is clamping the pin is the one you need to heat, your trying to make it expand with the heat and release the pin

[ginge191]

move the piston ginge, it the pin moves with the piston you need to heat the piston up, if the pin stays still and the piston moves around the pin then the little end needs heating, basically whichever is clamping the pin is the one you need to heat, your trying to make it expand with the heat and release the pin

AH ok, this makes sense... it seems the rod is holding it as the piston moves side to side slightly..

I'll try boiling a kettle, if this doesnt loosen it up, i'll get some more serious heat on it

[mark_airey]

Yeah if you can move the piston around on the pin then its held by the small end on the rod, try not to get too much heat into the actual pin as then that will expand as well as the hole and you will get nowhere fast

[Ruan]

Sorry, didn't see that - yeah, it's pressed in...

I'd expect it's fixed on the piston, floating on the rod...

Do 1.8s have oil squirters at the bottom of the bores for underneath the pistons?

[ginge191]

Ok, i've heated a fair bit and the pin isn't moving AT ALL; any more suggestions? Think i may need it pressed out mechanically, a hammer isnt sufficient for this..

[4WayDiablo]

Bigger hammer :-P