Introduction and search for help with my 306 Cabrio

[ipeco85]

Hello,
my name is Peter, living in Austria/Vienna.
A few months ago I bought a really cheap Peugeot 306 Cabrio 1996 1.8l machine, Saint Tropez edition.
In the meantime I learned a lot about this car and luckily fixed many bugs and failures.

A fault I cannot classify is the meaning of the following error codes

# 34     Canister Purge Electro-valve
and
# 52     Self-Correction Richness Regulation

as I didn't find a - for me - meaningful translation for these expressions.

Hopefully someone can explain!

Many thanks in advance and best regards
Peter

[Sinbad]

Hello,
my name is Peter, living in Austria/Vienna.
A few months ago I bought a really cheap Peugeot 306 Cabrio 1996 1.8l machine, Saint Tropez edition.
In the meantime I learned a lot about this car and luckily fixed many bugs and failures.

A fault I cannot classify is the meaning of the following error codes

# 34     Canister Purge Electro-valve
and
# 52     Self-Correction Richness Regulation

as I didn't find a - for me - meaningful translation for these expressions.

Hopefully someone can explain!

Many thanks in advance and best regards
Peter

Moin moin Peter, #34 ist Teil des Verdampfungssystems / EVAP system - ein Holzkohlefilter dingen, wie so ich glaube:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/254763574416

Wenn er kaputt ist, hast du oft einen schlechten Lauf, Zögern, Abreißen. Es könnte sein, dass das Ersetzen die #52 behebt....

Gruss

For those without ze German:

Its a charcoal filter, part of the EVAP system. If it's clogged / shagged, you can get bad running, stalling, cutting out, crap idle / pick-up etc. Swapping it out might solve #52

[Mighty306]

I think that would be the correct purge solenoid valve. They are easy to test though - just 2 pins. If the solonoid is healthy you should get 50 ohms of resistance across the pin. You can also check that it operates by putting 12v across the pins (in the correct polarity - pin 2 is live, pin 1 earth).

You'll also need to check the wiring to the solenoid. I think it will probably be earth switched by the ECU so the earth wire will lead back to the ECU.

As for the mixture regulation, that could be any number of things, although you'd experience some other symptoms with a few of them:

> Vacuum leak on the inlet side
> Exhaust leak (e.g. manifold gasket or cracked manifold)
> Dirty throttle body
> Poor spark (ignition coil)
> Dirty/clogged injectors
> Tired O2 (Lambda) sensor

> Faulty idle air control valve (or wiring to it). You'd likely also have high / low idle issues with this one though.
> Faulty MAP sensor (or wiring to it)
> Faulty TPS (or wiring to it)
> Faulty coolant temp sensor (or wiring to it)

Sorry, but the cars are of an age where they don't give very specific fault codes. I had the same thing & it turned out to be the MAP sensor. It'll get expensive if you go down the road of trying to replace sensors to find the fault. You need to find a way to test them, using vehicle-specific data or if someone has Peugeot Planet you can look at live data for some of the sensors.

[Sinbad]

I think that would be the correct purge solenoid valve. They are easy to test though - just 2 pins. If the solonoid is healthy you should get 50 ohms of resistance across the pin. You can also check that it operates by putting 12v across the pins (in the correct polarity - pin 2 is live, pin 1 earth).

You'll also need to check the wiring to the solenoid. I think it will probably be earth switched by the ECU so the earth wire will lead back to the ECU.

As for the mixture regulation, that could be any number of things, although you'd experience some other symptoms with a few of them:

> Vacuum leak on the inlet side
> Exhaust leak (e.g. manifold gasket or cracked manifold)
> Dirty throttle body
> Poor spark (ignition coil)
> Dirty/clogged injectors
> Tired O2 (Lambda) sensor

> Faulty idle air control valve (or wiring to it). You'd likely also have high / low idle issues with this one though.
> Faulty MAP sensor (or wiring to it)
> Faulty TPS (or wiring to it)
> Faulty coolant temp sensor (or wiring to it)

Sorry, but the cars are of an age where they don't give very specific fault codes. I had the same thing & it turned out to be the MAP sensor. It'll get expensive if you go down the road of trying to replace sensors to find the fault. You need to find a way to test them, using vehicle-specific data or if someone has Peugeot Planet you can look at live data for some of the sensors.

I've never plugged mine into anything (yet - touch wood it's not really needed anything, although it's a bit fluffy / hesitant on pick up) but is there a complete list of fault codes for specific engines?

[Mighty306]

These early cars weren't fully OBDII compliant so I'm afraid you can only get limited information from the systems. Lexia 3 / Peugeot Planet would be your best bet, although some garages will have expensive code readers that can supply some info. You can't rely too much on codes though - they're only a starting point for diagnosis.

[ipeco85]

Thanks for your useful hints and comments! I'll try to work through them step by step.
Would you kindly give me a location hint for the correct purge solenoid valve? Don't know how it looks like :-(

The most worrying effect is bad idle after warm-up, especially detectable after downhill passages with closed throttle.
The motor control lamp usually lights up for a short time (minutes) during warm-up, then goes out, but the idle problem is going worse with temperature.
Air input and exhaust should be ok now.
The temperature sensor i was able to cure by cleaning, has its 6 to 12 ohms now but the 150 ohms before ..

This is a link to the 2-wire error reading procedure:
https://www.instructables.com/Reading-19...des-2-pin/

and a extended error code list:
11 End of Test Sequence.
12 Beginning of Test Sequence.
13 Air Temperature Sensor.
14 Injection NTC Sensor.
15 Fuel Pump(s) Relay.
21 Throttle Switch (Idle Position).
22 Idle Regulation Electro-valve.
31 Self-Correction Richness Regulation.
32 Self-Correction Richness Regulation.
33 Air Flow Sensor.
34 Canister Purge Electro-valve.
35 Throttle Switch Unit (Full Load Position).
41 Engine RPM Sensor.
42 Injectors.
43 Detonation Sensor Regulation.
44 Detonation Sensor.
51 Self-Correction Richness Regulation.
52 Self-Correction Richness Regulation.
53 Battery Voltage.
54 Electronic Control Unit.

hope it helps somebody

Best reagrds and thanks
Peter

[Sinbad]

Thanks for your useful hints and comments! I'll try to work through them step by step.
Would you kindly give me a location hint for the correct purge solenoid valve? Don't know how it looks like :-(

The most worrying effect is bad idle after warm-up, especially detectable after downhill passages with closed throttle.
The motor control lamp usually lights up for a short time (minutes) during warm-up, then goes out, but the idle problem is going worse with temperature.
Air input and exhaust should be ok now.
The temperature sensor i was able to cure by cleaning, has its 6 to 12 ohms now but the 150 ohms before ..

This is a link to the 2-wire error reading procedure:
https://www.instructables.com/Reading-19...des-2-pin/

and a extended error code list:
11 End of Test Sequence.
12 Beginning of Test Sequence.
13 Air Temperature Sensor.
14 Injection NTC Sensor.
15 Fuel Pump(s) Relay.
21 Throttle Switch (Idle Position).
22 Idle Regulation Electro-valve.
31 Self-Correction Richness Regulation.
32 Self-Correction Richness Regulation.
33 Air Flow Sensor.
34 Canister Purge Electro-valve.
35 Throttle Switch Unit (Full Load Position).
41 Engine RPM Sensor.
42 Injectors.
43 Detonation Sensor Regulation.
44 Detonation Sensor.
51 Self-Correction Richness Regulation.
52 Self-Correction Richness Regulation.
53 Battery Voltage.
54 Electronic Control Unit.

hope it helps somebody

Best reagrds and thanks
Peter

"The most worrying effect is bad idle after warm-up"

Air Idle Control valve? (had to check: Leerlaufregelventil, Peter: https://www.autodoc.de/esen-skv/8710683 )

[Mighty306]

Would you kindly give me a location hint for the correct purge solenoid valve? Don't know how it looks like :-(

The purge solonoid will be located just to the side, or in front of the right hand strut tower under the bonnet. It will have a small pipe connected at each end and an electrical plug. It will look like the picture in one of the above posts.

I've remembered that there are other things that can cause the mixture regulation to be out of whack, particularly a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

I don't want to lead you down a particular path but I had the symptoms you describe and it was the manifold pressure (MAP) sensor. Really you need to test, test, test!