Introduction

[Sue Hillman]

Hi, I'm not really sure how the site works yet.   I post my introduction yesterday but I don't see it coming up.   Anyway, I'm looking for advice on my 306 2l Cabriolet, 1999, roof which goes up and down but doesn't close properly at the back.   Can it be replaced? and by whom?  Many thanks Sue

[Mighty306]

Welcome to the club. It's so quiet on here these days that it's unlikely anyone with cab knowledge is going to appear here to help. If a local garage is of no help you may be best searching out a company who specialise in cabriolet roof repairs.

Google will be your friend on this one. https://www.google.com/search?q=peugeot+...d%20repair

[Sinbad]

Hi, I'm not really sure how the site works yet.   I post my introduction yesterday but I don't see it coming up.   Anyway, I'm looking for advice on my 306 2l Cabriolet, 1999, roof which goes up and down but doesn't close properly at the back.   Can it be replaced? and by whom?  Many thanks Sue

Forgot I'd joined ! 

Sue, under the headlining there are straps (look a bit like seat belts) and bits of elastic that help the hood operate. Check they are all there (the elastic tends to go saggy and needs tightening - most people tie bows in it to take up the slack.)

There is also a microswitch on (IIRC) the right side of the roof around where the rubber splits in two above the front window. If that switch gets out of adjustment it tells the roof it's closed before (or after) it really is. Lift up the roof fabric with the roof open at the front and you should see it.
Adjustment is a matter of sliding it one way or another then tightening the screw that holds it again. Unless this has been fiddled with or taken a clout (unlikely) it doesn't usually give problems.


There are grubscrews behind the part of the headlining that covers what would be the C-pillar (at the back, behind the long bits of plastic hanging down)
The grubscrews adjust the amount of closing pressure at the back of the hood onto the hood cover. It may be that someone has fiddled with them and the hood physically cannot close. (This is doubtful as most people don't know they are there)


This all assumes that you have enough hydraulic fluid. If it leaking and it's too low that might also stop the roof fully closing. Check in right hand side of boot. Pull the carpet/cover away from the pump and check for oil.

There is a way of re-setting the "brain" of the hood which I can't remember at the mo - but try the straps and the microswitch first and post back, and I'll have a dig around for the reset instructions.

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Hi, I'm not really sure how the site works yet.   I post my introduction yesterday but I don't see it coming up.   Anyway, I'm looking for advice on my 306 2l Cabriolet, 1999, roof which goes up and down but doesn't close properly at the back.   Can it be replaced? and by whom?  Many thanks Sue

Hood reset proceedure:

www.306cab.com/guides/Manual%2520hood%2520reset.pdf
(from the link in case it's not working)

You'll need a helper:

Step1
Starting from the roof up position unclipthe roof with the two handles and push theroof up to release it

Step2
Move to the back of the car and now liftthe rear window section up towards thefront of the car (this is where a secondperson is helpful to hold it in the uprightposition)

Step3
Working from the boot you need to releasethe storage bin lid. This can be done byrotating the mechanism with the wheelwrench normally clipped to the left side ofthe boot. Insert it in the hole in the centerof the boot (it normally has a sticker on itshowing the rotation) Do not over turn thisit only requires about quarter of a turn inthe right direction. Once released you canmove to step 4

Step4
Reclose the boot lid (make sure you do this to allthe way to avoid any damage) and now you canlift the hood storage lid towards the back of thecar.

Step5
Now lower the rear screen back to the original down position andstow the entire roof in the storage bin, once in lower the lid backdown and again working from inside the boot manually close the liddown and shut the boot.You now need to repeat the entire process backwards to return theroof to its up position again just follow the steps backwards andwhen the roof is up lock it back down.Basically what you have done is the entire roof sequence in thecorrect order that the roof would have operated if using the electrics, Now you can retry your electrics this will cure alot of hood faults butthere may be more that need looking in to should this fail..

[Mighty306]

Wow, that's impressively comprehensive. Good work!

[Owenhb]

Excuse me writing here but I am a NEWBIE as of today and can't work out how to INTRODUCE myself or POST a question to the forum myself, and this is the nearest I can find!

There is a nice looking 306 yellow 96 2L Cabriolet for sale locally BUT the advert says 'roof goes down but there is a problem that one of the wires or cords has snapped that run either side of the roof' as identified by an electrical engineer she called to have a look, thinking it was an electrical problem.

I have tried to research what the problem might be and how difficult/expensive it might be to correct. I was impressed by the response to your query [and hope it has helped you], and have looked at the whole post from which the quoted 'hood reset procedure' above was taken and it is very clear and comprehensive but did not refer to anything like the 'snapped wires or cords' I mentioned above.

Is anyone able to help me on this - it would be much appreciated?

Many thanks in anticipation.

Owenhb.

[Sinbad]

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Excuse me writing here but I am a NEWBIE as of today and can't work out how to INTRODUCE myself or POST a question to the forum myself, and this is the nearest I can find!

There is a nice looking 306 yellow 96 2L Cabriolet for sale locally BUT the advert says 'roof goes down but there is a problem that one of the wires or cords has snapped that run either side of the roof' as identified by an electrical engineer she called to have a look, thinking it was an electrical problem.

I have tried to research what the problem might be and how difficult/expensive it might be to correct. I was impressed by the response to your query [and hope it has helped you], and have looked at the whole post from which the quoted 'hood reset procedure' above was taken and it is very clear and comprehensive but did not refer to anything like the 'snapped wires or cords' I mentioned above.

Is anyone able to help me on this - it would be much appreciated?

Many thanks in anticipation.

Owenhb.

Evening Owen - the important thing is "does the roof open and close without jamming?"
Even with all the hydraulics connected and filled, the hood can be manually operated - although with hydraulics on it would be better with a mate / helper / the bloke selling on the other side. You should be able to feel it operating fairly smoothly once you get it started. (If you aren't clear on how to open it manually post back and I'll tell you how.)

The automatic locking / unlocking mechanisms, which can be operated from the boot, while not exactly frail, tend to get abused / mis-used and broken, but they tend to be the most common fault on a roof. If the roof opens manually, with the hydraulics connected, there's 99.9% nothing wrong with the roof itself. It may need tautening / adjusting - but the roof itself is sound.

You'll have to trust me on this, but once you drop two hydraulic rams off (long screwdriver, 5 minutes) unless you're a 7 stone weakling you'll be able to manually operate the roof with no problems. I took my pump and hydraulic harness out and flogged it. Didn't need it, and certainly didn't want the weight of it in the boot - it's about the weight of an average car battery.  

Watch parts one and two this -  try not to get carried away by the groovy music 

[Owenhb]

Thanks very much for your prompt response and apologies for my slow one. I will discuss with vendor and get back to you! O.

[Sinbad]

Thanks very much for your prompt response and apologies for my slow one.  I will discuss with vendor and get back to you! O.

Happy to help mate. They look good in yellow - and they're on the cusp of starting to be worth a bit. A top-notch one over here can go for as much as 7K Euro.

Mine cost me 100€.....  but then she was a basket case 

Be more careful over things like the back axle - look out for the rear wheels cambering in at the top. More than a tad and you've got a bill coming fairly soon.
It's not the end of the world, a recon axle complete is a couple of hundred Euro - probably 300 odd quid? - and easy to change if you're handy, but it's probably the main thing after the roof to look out for.

PS: the 2 litre in either power is the cream of the engines. Goes like stink if you want it too, and nigh on bulletproof.