Audio setup - help

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Audio setup - help
#31
The rears are muffled by the parcel shelf/seats and don't really do much tbh. I never changed the rears in my estate, just went for the Alpines upfront with a JVC HU. Was good enough for me and much better over standard.
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#32
(30-11-2014, 04:51 PM)Frosty Wrote: How come you wouldn't change the rears? Surely changing them would make a difference?

As they say on the car audio forums all the time, " you don't listen to a gig with your back towards the stage".

The only speaker that works from any location would be a sub as your brain can't tell where the low frequencies are coming from.
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#33
Just to put it out there fitting rears in an estate doesnt work. I upgraded mine and the tailgate required cutting in order to fit them! They are 5x8 but still dont fit.
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#34
Ok cheers guys. Will just go for the fronts then
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#35
Changing my rear shelf from stealth to normal ph1 made a big difference in quality, both with standard speakers.
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#36
Tbf if I was you and I didn't wanna spend too much I would get a headunit with a high pass filter on it to start will.
Having a high pass filter means that you can set what frequency your stock speakers will cut off at. Having the stock speakers not playing frequencies under about 63Hz really does improve how they sound.

Then buy a cheap JBL or Ground zero sub and amp package from car audio direct to stick in the boot and give you the low and loud bass.

The next step would be to buy a decent set of front door speakers if you want better clarity. Definitly a component set rather than coaxial (like the ones above with the separate tweeters) and then fit them. Maybe buy an additional 2 channel small amp to power them with a bit more umph than the head unit can provide Smile
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#37
Okay So I've found these component speakers and this head unit, would like to know what you think before I commit

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400702298537

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371006436023
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#38
They look good.

At a later date I would amp the new front speakers to make the most of them.
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#39
(20-12-2014, 02:42 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: They look good.

At a later date I would amp the new front speakers to make the most of them.

Change of plans, I've just bought my audio from car audio direct, bought the same Focal speakers but went for a different head unit and also bought the stalk adaptor, headunit was on offer and still got everything for over £50 cheaper Big Grin Any tips for fitting the speakers? 16.5 cm should be a straight fit? Oh I also bought some sound deadening sheets
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#40
Speakers should be a straight fit unless they are chunky 6.5's.

Those ones look chunky haha. I spent ages cutting and bending the metal and plastic out of the way from behind the speakers when I fitted my alpine SPG-17cs speakers lol :/
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#41
Do these focals come with all the wiring ect? Also noticed they have to be wired straight to the headunit
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#42
You can connect the crossovers to the speaker cable the goes to the original speakers.
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#43
(21-12-2014, 02:06 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: You can connect the crossovers to the speaker cable the goes to the original speakers.

Is that what you did? So do the speakers come with the cable, I guess not it just says grills included
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#44
Some do but it's best not to use what they give you as it's usually too thin.
I have mine amped via an amp in the boot and because of the higher output I have run thicker cable.

But I have done my girlfriends via the cable that originally went to the speaker.
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#45
We sell speaker cable at work, so It doesnt matter what size you get it all fits but its best to get thick cable yes?

If I run the cable from the crossover to the headunit whats the best route? 
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#46
It's not worth the effort to run a wire to headunit. Just connect the crossover to the speaker cable in the door.
It's only worth running thicker cable if your sending a lot more power to them.
But if you're going to I would go out the door just under the check strap, the down the back of the door loom and then punch a hole through the big door loom grommet. It's a pain to get through the sound deadening in the car.
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#47
(21-12-2014, 02:51 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: It's not worth the effort to run a wire to headunit. Just connect the crossover to the speaker cable in the door.
It's only worth running thicker cable if your sending a lot more power to them.
But if you're going to I would go out the door just under the check strap, the down the back of the door loom and then punch a hole through the big door loom grommet. It's a pain to get through the sound deadening in the car.

Okay thanks ill let you know how I get on when they arrive. Repped
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#48
(20-12-2014, 01:46 PM)LewisG Wrote: Okay So I've found these component speakers and this head unit, would like to know what you think before I commit

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400702298537

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371006436023
Those Focals are entry level. They are not the v3s that most people get.
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#49
Okay so fitted my speakers and headunit, could do with a little more bass really, could I connect a sub to the crossovers?
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#50
You need an amp to power the sub and the amp will need a power cable running to it from the battery. It will also need to connect to the back of the headunit to get a audio source from the sub output rca.

Just thought you might want to check the polarity is the right way on the speakers.

The way to check if the polarity is correct is: 
  • use the fader to bring the sound to the front.
  • use the balance to shift the sound to one side.
  • listen to the bass
  • move the balance to the centre
Now if the bass sounds louder the speakers are in phase and connected right but if the bass goes quieter the speaker will be going out of phase and that means there not connected right.
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#51
Sounds like mine are going out of phase  Confused 
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#52
I've checked the haynes manual and it seems to be wrong with the wiring diagram.

I think and if I've worked it out right it's looking like both the yellow wires should be going to the positive terminal on the crossovers.

But best to double check with a multimeter via the ISO plug that goes to the headunit.

[Image: 23uy3ww.jpg]

Done you a little drawing to show you how an amp and sub should be connected.

[Image: ICEMap_zps0ac5fb5e.jpg]
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#53
Ive wired my tweeter to the crossover, then for the speakers ive joined the original speaker cables with another cable which plugs to the speaker via spade connectors and then the other end of the cable goes to the crossover as "input" is that right? Looking at your diagram ive wired them wrong? 
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#54
Oh dear, yep that is a bit wrong. Your making the mids work hard by making them play higher frequencies then they're designed to play, that isn't going to to help with the sound quality.
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#55
Okay well I've ordered speaker spacers as they dont quite fit, so when they come ill re wire them. So the original speaker cable should go to the crossover as input? and the big speaker to "woofer" and obviously tweeter to "tweeter". I feel so dumb
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#56
That's right. I wouldn't play the stereo till you rewire as I'm not sure what load the headunit would be seeing wired that way.

It might be seeing 2 ohms, in which case you could damage the headunit.
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#57
(27-12-2014, 08:10 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: That's right. I wouldn't play the stereo till you rewire as I'm not sure what load the headunit would be seeing wired that way.

It might be seeing 2 ohms, in which case you could damage the headunit.

Ill rewire it all in the morning then actually. Really appreciate your help Dee 
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#58
How thick are the spacers your getting?

Normally if you cut some of the plastic they might fit but sometimes you have to cut some of the metal of the door.

With the spacers you might not be able to place the covers back over the speakers.
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#59
(27-12-2014, 11:22 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: How thick are the spacers your getting?

Normally if you cut some of the plastic they might fit but sometimes you have to cut some of the metal of the door.

With the spacers you might not be able to place the covers back over the speakers.

18mm, I havent got anything to cut metal with, I did think of that though.
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#60
Is it the magnet that's hitting the metal that's stopping it sitting right?
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