Dum-Dums VNT 2.1TD OEM+ Bianca Estate. (loads of pics and video now added)

[Piggy]

But with a boost can, arent the vanes open till boost builds then the boost can shuts the vanes?!

[Dum-Dum]

No you hold the vanes shut to build the boost then start opening them like opening a wastegate to let out the excess pressure.

I'm having a right pain in the arse getting the turbo off the car, all the bolts are undone but i think I might of broken my finger in undoing one of the main turbo bolts had to use the breaker bar and hen it finally gave I mashed my hand off the sub frame. Anyway I've rounded off the allen keys on the big pipe of the oil drain and the bolts to get the exhaust elbow off. With these 2 things off I reckon I'd have the turbo out but my hand is killing me.

[Piggy]

I have a feeling the GTB works opposite to that. Hmmm

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Will put up some pics later...looks diff to gen1 vnt

[mcglynn]

The vanes wont close when on boost it defeats the purpose of it. As has been said they should opene effectively making a 'bigger' hotside. They may rest in the open position but the car it came off will probably adjust that when its turned on

[Piggy]

The vanes in the GTB are housed almost internally

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Not saying they will close, but having thr GTB apart it seems to make sense to have the vanes open initially to add flow to the turbine, then as they close they reduce flow angle thus stopping overspeed and clipping boost levels.

[Dum-Dum]

It is a gen 1 VNT mate. The boost can is in exactly the same place as the vac can would be.

Standard the vac can leaves the vanes open with no input as a failsafe and then uses the ecu to pull them shut to make the boost whereas mine rest in the shut position and use the boost to push them open.

Its a VNT mate Variable nossel turbo.

Think of each gap between 2 vanes as a nosel that opens and closes.

Imagine having a hosepipe in your hand flowing water (instead of exhaust gas), you put your finger over the end (vanes closed) and the pressure inside the hose increases and the water comes out at a great speed, take your finger off and and the pressure in the hose drops right off and the speed of the water slows down but you get alot more water flowing through.

On the turbo the same applies, close the vanes and the pressure inside the hotside increases as does the gas speed so the turbo spins faster and makes more boost. You then open the vanes a little at a time to control the flow and slow the gas speed and pressure to stop the turbo overspeeding and also stop it being a restriction.

[Piggy]

I know its simple in principle...just getting my head round it. Heres a vid of mine...

[video=youtube] http://youtu.be/J76rV1EOSgY[/video]

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Same yeah? So closed=high pressure=builds boost

Open=low pressure=capped boost/no boost

[procta]

dum dum, are you not going to get fibre glass panels for this? surely you can fibre glass the front.

[Dum-Dum]

Think I worked out the horrific exhaust noise and lack of boost and it was pretty much as I'd expected that the egr blanking plate was blowing so I'll weld that over when the manifold comes off.

So yesterdays plan was:

take both the shafts out - done, easy as they were out when the engine was fitted.
remove turbo piping - done bar the last bit of the oil drain as the bolts are rounded.
remove down pipe - done
remove turbo - bolts undone and the turbo is loose but cant get it out of the bay as there isnt space, need to get the exhaust elbow off the turbo and try again.
remove manifold - nope, cant get at the bolts till the turbo is off
remove lower engine mount - nope
fit powerflex red lower engine mount - nope
mount turbo - nope but i do have it hanging in the bay
make manifold flange - nope but I have a 10mm thick, 100mm OD 45mm ID steel washer ready to make it.
make link pipe - nope

Sadly I crushed my right little finger bad enough to suspect it might be broken and go to hospital. Fortunately it isn't broken but there is no way I can work on the car as it kills if I knock it and I cant bend it fully still

dum dum, are you not going to get fibre glass panels for this? surely you can fibre glass the front.

Nah theres no point, shes a hefty beast and I'f I wanted to have a lighter faster 306 I'd buy a povo spec ph1 shell and shave off a few hundred kilos that way.

[Piggy]

Shame about the finger matey

[Dum-Dum]

Shame about the finger matey

Yeah it sucks a big hairy one especially as the car is pretty much as close to finished as it is to putting it back together so is wholly undrivable as it is. Hoping its better enough tomorrow to be able to crack on with the car a bit but I'm still on that PITA confined turbo removal which still probably has a good hours fight left in it till I can f*ck the exhaust elbow (which is nearly as big as the turbo itself) off and get me some room to work. After thats gone and the turbo is out theres actually a pretty decent amount of space at the back of the bay.


Anyway what do people think to welding a stud to the bottom of the turbo hot side to make mounting easier so it can sit on top of a mount rather than needing to be hung and thus making this whole enterprise easier?

[Piggy]

Bracket fixed to the adpater plate then bolted to top of gearbox should do it matey. Makes for easier turbo removal/fitment too

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I'll get mine done this weekend

[Dum-Dum]

I was kinda planning to do the adaptor plate bolted on as well as the turbo itself, belt and braces like. Seemed to make sense as my turbo flange is pointing out the side rather than top or bottom as pipe routing made more sense in my head that way.

[silverzx]

Shame about the finger mate, I know injuries can be a right DRAG when you plan on modifying the car..

[Dum-Dum]

So I finally could move my finger enough and have the motivation to do a little bit more tonight. In 90 mins from 6pm till 7:30 I managed to split the exhaust elbow from the turbo (which involved shearing a extension bar for my ratchet) and get the oil drain line off and get the whole lot out of the bay all without the use of a hammer. I also got the exhaust manifold off and f*ck me I must of been loosing some EMP out the EGR blank as I can see clear daylight through the gap. Worse as it looks like an OEM plate thats got so warped.

Anyway, no pics as my hard drive is unplugged but suffice to say I'm happy and bar the engine mount everything thats left is rebuilding or fabricating

[Dave]

Whichever way you have the actuator on the lever will dictate if its closed with no boost on actuator or open. Remember you can always move it, or reverse the spring in the actuator.

[Dum-Dum]

Little more today. No pics as I'm on my phone on the train but I have spent alot of time with the tap and die set cleaning up nearly 20 year old threads. Also got the manifold adaptor made and welded on a substantial EGR blank. Next job is manifold back on and make the link pipe.

[ozonehostile]

its about time this engine had a decent blower. definitely need to take me for a drive when done

[Dum-Dum]

God its doing my head in how long it takes to make up the link pipe and turbo mount. Its the constant get under the car bolt it on, fit the next pipe, mark it, tack weld it, test fit again, find its wrong, cut the tack welds, re-fit it, re-mark it, re-tack it, test fit yet again, take it off, fully weld it, wait for it to cool down, refit it, fit the next pipe, mark it, tack weld it, test fit again, find its wrong, cut the tack welds, re-fit it, re-mark it, re-tack it, test fit yet again, take it off, fully weld it, wait for it to cool down, refit it ad infinitum.


On the up side the link pipe is done and the mount just needs one more bit of metal added on and then welded to the mount and its done then onto the joys of fighting the exhaust on. 3" pipe is gonna be fun in those gaps, it will fit, its just gonna be alot of checking and welding.

[Dum-Dum]

Well bottom engine mount is swapped for a powerflex and low and behold its raining again. TBH there really isn't alot left to do, its just keeping the motivation and good weather.

[Piggy]

Keep at it mate.....you wont shrink if you get wet!

[Connor]

Keep at it mate.....you wont shrink if you get wet!

Will if he gets cold though and as we all know, he cant afford any more shrinkage

[Dum-Dum]

Keep at it mate.....you wont shrink if you get wet!

I'm well aware of that but I'm not playing with the electrics in the rain and also not sitting out with the welder and the grinder getting electrocuted

[Piggy]

You big girl

[Dum-Dum]

You big girl

If your so brave you come and do it.

[Niall]

http://www.aws.org/education/plunge.html

You're welcome

[Dum-Dum]

Very funny Niall.

Rain has again stopped play but the exhaust is all tacked up bar the bridge between the join between the old mid section and the new mid section. Realistically just wiring and re building now.

[Piggy]

Im doing my own welding on the 206 in the rain and dark.

[Dum-Dum]

Yeah I'm just about to go out and crack on again. I might have her ready to run this evening.

Need to cycle up to halfords and get a 3" exhaust clamp before I can drive her though.

[Dum-Dum]

So she's almost back together, drive shafts are in, gear box is filled, wheels are on, run the power wire through the car, had forgotten how much of a pain in the arse it is as drilling even a 12mm hole isn't big enough for the wire. Engine has some oil in, most of the exhaust is welded and so the list is very minor.

Mount battery tray in boot (I'll need to make a couple of brackets).
Run the earth wire (or 3) and crimp an end on it.
Wrap a fucktonne of tape round the power wire and jam it in the hole in the bulkhead so it cant chafe.
Crimp some ends on a few wires in the fuse box and bolt them to the live.
Re fit the turbo.
Finish welding the exhaust.
Cut the oil drain line to length and fit.
Splice into a boost feed for the actuator.
Find some decent clamps for the boost pipes.
Fit battery.
Fit air filter.
Change fuel filter.
Disconnect LDA (to prevent it piling in fuel if it boosts on idle).

Cross Fingers.

Say a little prayer.

Fire her up.


(maybe 2 hours work there)