MG ZR: Cams & Maps

Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
MG ZR: Cams & Maps
(28-06-2014, 05:47 AM)Poodle Wrote: Rofl True dat!! ^^^

Reusing the cambelt and headbolts is fine if within tolerances, do you see the XUD boys changing the cambelt every time they swap a pump? Wink

No. But they are all tight fcukers who do things as cheap as possible Wink
Reply
Thanks given by:
Started the process today.
This mornings rain luckily didn't last long
So far removed everything except the crank pulley so can take off the cambelt and head bolts

Going to replace aux belts too while I'm at it since one is a bit cracked, the cambelt is also coated in oil so really wouldn't be a good idea to reuse
[Image: mcetg0.png]

ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
Reply
Thanks given by:
Head is ready to come off Smile Just stopping for the evening as back is killing being bent over all day
Leaving the head on overnight as want a second pair of hands to lift so I don't risk dropping it
[Image: mcetg0.png]

ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
Reply
Thanks given by:
Man up There not heavy

On a serious note well done for fixing it and your making good progress
[Image: image_zps45f2003b.jpg]

Team Doesn't own a 306
Reply
Thanks given by:
well done mate for getting stuck in.

Its why I had to leave the trade, my back kept getting locked in the bent over position, funny as hell for everyone in the workshop...painful as hell for me!!
Wishes for more power...
Reply
Thanks given by:
Well head is off and some not so nice news.
Previous owners decided not to use the supplied protective shim with the mls, possibly because he thought it was only to use if the head was skimmed. So can only guess he didn't skim and put half the gasket on.

Using a straight edge shows the head to not be badly warped although there may be a bit on the exhaust side. For safety sake it'll get a skim.
This means I now need to take apart the head which could be interesting with it being a vvc and having 3 cams and some nice hydraulic controls

There is also some very nice carbon build up on the pistons
[Image: mcetg0.png]

ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
Reply
Thanks given by:
Those pistons look pretty clean to me tbh

Ive seen a LOT worse when doing Kseries.

Weird to see no mayo...thats usually everywhere! Haha

Well done for cracking on Smile keep it up
Wishes for more power...
Reply
Thanks given by:
You dont need to take the head apart, machine shop should take apart and refit what ever they need to take off
306oc Chat Wrote:15:30: Toms306 - :Genuinely thought it was gonna explode when I was playing with Sam
22:57: SRowell - :wtf why didnt you try harder to make me come!
[Image: connorsig.jpg]
Reply
Thanks given by:
Worth mentioning to the machine shop you think someone has cocked up the vvc mech! Also as said top marks for cracking on, no better way to learn imo!
Doesnt even own a 306.
Reply
Thanks given by:
(29-06-2014, 03:46 PM)Connor Wrote: You dont need to take the head apart, machine shop should take apart and refit what ever they need to take off

But you pay extra for that, seems little point as it can be done at home easily enough IMHO
Welding and fabrication projects undertaken, contact me for more information.

Reply
Thanks given by:
Yeah, take ya time and do it yourself

Much more feeling of self worth then! You can do things like lapping in the valves which is proper OCD fullfilling!

Plus saving some ££££
Wishes for more power...
Reply
Thanks given by:
(29-06-2014, 04:10 PM)Piggy Wrote: Yeah, take ya time and do it yourself

Much more feeling of self worth then! You can do things like lapping in the valves which is proper boring!

Plus saving some ££££

EFA
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
Reply
Thanks given by:
It doesn't surprise me about it been an half arsed job! typical that's why you do things your self with these engines! At least you will put it back to rights again!
plus you have checked the head now, and know what's going on there.
Reply
Thanks given by:
There is a great satisfaction from getting these things fixed your self. Get that head skimmed (Just not at the place Rowell got his done Tongue) and get it back together and see how she goes.

Just a thought. Did you ever check the timing when you were chasing your lost ponies? If this has had a gasket before (what am i saying, of course it has, its a K series lol), it may of not been timed up properly and who ever did it may have taken the "f*ck it its close enough" attitude.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
Reply
Thanks given by:
(29-06-2014, 04:26 PM)Niall Wrote: it may of not been timed up properly and who ever did it may have taken the "f*ck it its close enough" attitude.

Isn't that the attitude they were originally built with anyway? Confused lol


Good work so far Steve!
Reply
Thanks given by:
External timing seemed about right. it's the internal timing of the vvc that i'll check now but starting to wonder if it was just because of the bad gasket and carboning that the 20 hp went walkies
[Image: mcetg0.png]

ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
Reply
Thanks given by:
From the pics that really doesn't look that bad mate so I would be surprised if it was the cause of your loss.
Either that or the dyno it went on was just shite or the operator had no clue!
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
Reply
Thanks given by:
Went on two different dynos though producing results 5hp from one another so can guess it was in that region

Not looking to do a total full rebuild as want to make sure it's running for pugfest so will take off the carrier hopefully tonight and get it down to a state hopefully like this (this is not mine)
[Image: 2iauafs.jpg]
from http://www.davebence.co.uk/mods_10.htm


Question: Do I need to remove the valves? or could I just have like in the picture
[Image: mcetg0.png]

ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
Reply
Thanks given by:
Don't have to remove valves, the machine shop will do it if they need removing. Not worth the hassle of valve spring compressors tbh.
Reply
Thanks given by:
Good lad for cracking on yourself. Defo strip it yourself as decent machine shop time is uber expensive. Defo remove the valves mate, if you fully strip it they should give it a good dunk in the cleaning tank and that'll clean out all your ports. If they have decent machines (and you have the money) get the valve seats cut back by as much as the head is skimmed by and they can cut the seats and valves so perfectly you wont have to lap them in.
Reply
Thanks given by:
A k series head needs fully stripping for skimming, whoevers skimming it will normally charge double to strip and rebiuld it for you
Reply
Thanks given by:
Take valves out is best bet dude, can do the valve stem seals then aswell
Reply
Thanks given by:
I'll ring some places tomorrow then, might be able to get cams off but I think ill pay for the valves to be removed if they need to be
[Image: mcetg0.png]

ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
Reply
Thanks given by:
What a bummer finding it's been f*cked up by a previous owner, but as echoed, fair play for having a decent crack at it!
Current stable
'09 Mercedes E320cdi wagon 
'99 306 gti6
Reply
Thanks given by:
Best thing to do often is to disassemble yourself - give to them in parts all in a tray, all in separate bags and all labelled up for each cylinder and valve.

They'll then clean it for you and re-assemble - then you know it went back together right.

If you do decide to remove valves yourself - don't bother with getting a spring compressor - remove bucket, get a socket and a strong magnet - place magnet up end of socket and secure with glue or similar - place socket over valve retainer and twat with hammer. Collets fly off, stick to magnet - bam easy.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
Reply
Thanks given by:
Not used to these horrible petrol engines, i thought the amount of carbon and signs of overheating meant it was knackered myself. lol There was a tiny amount of mayo on the mating face of the block where all the fluids had been pissing out and mixing, but aside from that there was nothing. Amazing considering it's been round track a few times like that.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



Reply
Thanks given by:
Just remove the valves mate, I've got compressors you can borrow, and it's not a difficult job.
Welding and fabrication projects undertaken, contact me for more information.

Reply
Thanks given by:
Just phoned place in Cadnam which is a bit closer than Portsmouth. £50 for skim but valves can stay in just need the cam carrier and followers out and have a next day turn out which I'm more inclined for as not really keen for valves out, never done it before and risk loosing bits
[Image: mcetg0.png]

ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
Reply
Thanks given by:
#shouldofboughtagti6?????

[Image: DSC_0190-Copy_zpsf093f84d.jpg]
Member of 99% warning or your nothing club!

Reply
Thanks given by:
(30-06-2014, 09:32 AM)puglove Wrote: #shouldofboughtagti6?????

Was waiting for someone to mention that lol

Tbh though steve has the right engine just the wrong car Wink should be a vvc metro Tongue

Fair play for fixing it this way dude! I would of just swapped the engine myself as im a lazy fitter Tongue
[Image: 17b33c2a-8471-4313-992e-0a4b324cf926_zps2e63812a.jpg]
Team Cyril
Reply
Thanks given by:


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 25 Guest(s)