Dum-Dums Stupid HDi Project 2009 - Now Scrapped!

[Dum-Dum]

Thought Id post this up so everyone can have a good oggle and as theres some useful stuff in here.

Its now very old and was scrapped over 18 months ago as it was all going wrong and i didnt have the money to continue.



Start 17/07/2009

Yes I know some of you are gonna kill me for this but 165bhp is slow and Im going for more power again. This isnt gonna be finished quickly however, its starting to get expensive and I can only spend so much on my car.

This project is gonna be in 2 parts though. Part 1 is breathing which is basically head, cam, manifolds, turbo and an external wastegate. Part 2 will be fueling and that means fuel pump, fuel pressure reg, injectors and the mother of all remaps.

Obviously this is all accademic if i end up going twin engined which is seriously tempting right now, even with no mods a 90 engine in the front and a 110 in the back would give a 200bhp HDi, both added together with good stage 2 tunes would give well over 300bhp.

Righty ho, Im starting with the breathing side of things as its the easier one to sort out. Ive been collecting parts so I can see how stuff goes together before it all goes away to be machined. Ive got a head, cam and injectors for £90, a pair of manifolds for £45, a GT17 turbo for £90 and Im gettin a wastegate for £100 as soon as Ive got money. Total for that is £325.

The plan is:
- Get the cam re-profiled by piper (£130)
- Get the head ported, polished and big valved (approx £400)
- Port the manifolds out myself and weld the wastegate flange onto the EGR flange (£40)
- Get the exhaust housing of a GT15 turbo machined out to fit the GT17 wheel (approx £100)
- Full set of new gaskets (£50)
- Remove EGR system and weld over hole on L-bend (£20)
- Adapt coolant system to run through turbo core (water and air cooled) (£60)
- Fitting for that little lot (£200)

So all in thatll be another £1000

Anyway my collection of bits so far.
Head with injectors and cam still intact.





Notice the valves dont lift very far, could make big valves pointless and save me some oney but ill have to do the maths on that when I get the cam back.







Notice the black marks on the face of it arround the ports, ripe for enlarging me thinks.





Inlet Manifold is a tad dirty but defo shows that its ripe for porting out too.








Exhaust manifold has the back half of a GT15 ready fot me to play with. The casting looks really thick and I think this will show the best gains from enlargement. the hole for the EGR is 25mm so im trying to find a really small wastegate but i recon I could take it out to 30mm, I dont want a 35mm wastegate as thets bigger than the exhaust ports currently are lol.





And my GT17 again.

[Dum-Dum]

[Dum-Dum]

27/08/2009

Shes Back! 3 Weeks, 6 Days and 14 hours after blowing the box.

I cant tell you how much Ive missed driving alough I am really paraniod about every little noise right now while i get used to it again. So when one of my boost hoses (that wasnt done up properly) popped off with a pop and a big increase in induction noise I nearly filled my pants.

The lightened flywheel is really good in the lower gears and the car actually feels smoother at idle and when revved. The clutch slips a little and is especially bad in the higher gears but its to be expected till the clutch has bedded in. The new linkages feel really good and I recon that the clutch is actually lighter than my mums Berlingo that has the same engine and box. I thought theyd forgot to attach the cable when I first put my foot on it as it was so light.

Good to have it back. Ill post pictures after the weekend and give a full run down of the bill.





4/10/2009

Right a bit of an update. Spoke to Piper the other day about the acm and the bloke said that it should give 8-10bhp without any other mods. Its not got alot more overlap so the peak power should be within 500 rpm of where it currently is however they list the powerband as 1500-6500rpm. 6500RPM!!! :o:o OMFG :o:o that would be crazy.


Ive to get a second engine to rebuild cos sods law says that if i put a new turbo and head on the old bottom end its gonna go pop within 2 weeks just to spite me sowent on ebay and got an engine and box all for just £138
[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120473979054&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT[/url]


Ive got some more bits i need to photo and a big pile of stuff to do so hopefully ill do a full update within the month.



11/11/2009

Right, Where to start?

These are gonna be a little out of the order they happened in cos thats how theyer uploading.

A brief run down of the last 3 weeks.
- Exhaust de middle boxxed and back box re-welded.
- Upgrades for W/M system ordered.
- Inlet L-Bend EGR hole permanently welded over then gasket matched and smoothed internally.
- Interior Stripped.
- 302mm brakes bought (inc braided hoses and mintex and brembo kit).
- Rear lowered another 40mm (now 100mm lower than a std 306 and on the bump stops)
- New front speakers.
- Air bag system removed.
- Snap off wheel.
- Battery box made for boot.
- Lightened crank pulley.


And thats all i can remember for the min.


Right Brakes First then.
Got Calipers off a 307 HDi 135bhp for £90. Theyer a straight fit and take 302mm discs. The photos are of a test fit with the GTi6 discs still on. My GTi set up is already sold before you ask. I got brembo front discs comming with mintex rear discs and mintex pads all round £150. also got a full set of braided hoses for under £50 off Camskill. Just gotta get some DOT 5.1 fluid and fit it and Ill be well happy.









Next up is a lightened Crank pulley from Rich @ Lynx (the people who make the supercharger kits). I can honnestly say thats £90 well spent. the HDi revs like a petrol now its mad. Feels much smoother to drive too. The light one is 700g and the std one is 2300g so thats another 1.5kg off my drive line





Also fitted at the same time as the pulley was my new HDi box. I cant tell you how nice it is to drive with this back on.




And a quick snap of my spare engine and my Oil Pressure Gauge




Next up is the inlet L-bend.

Im getting rid of my Dump Valve so i needed a new one.

First i cut off the flange for the egr pipe and took it to the welders to be welded over.
Next I Put a gasket over it and lined it up and drew a line round the excess metal.
I then got a flap wheel sanding attachment and enlarged the hole to the edge of the line. the tight corners were alot harder to do so ive left some excess on them.
Then a 16mm hole and i screwed another mondeo take off in and now i just gotta drill and tap it for my new W/M nozzle














11/11/2009

Next how about some strippage. Finally i have decided i can do without rear seats in aid of going faster so theyve gone (they smelt funny anyway). Im gonna do a big write up on its own but ive already taken 60kg out of the rear and all the airbags.






Got a snap off sports wheel







and after all that weight the car had risen another 15mm so Kris dropped it another 40mm onto its bump stops to compensate lol





So with a stripped out rear i decided i had to fit the battery in the back (weight distrobution and everyhting lol) decided i could make one cheeper than everyone sells them for so £12 for a sheet of zintec and a couple of pop rivits later happy days. Also got some hardcore 50mm 345amp battery cable and a kill switch.






OOh boot tidy






Exhaust. really pretty self explanitary ber the orange PU mounts.

[Dum-Dum]

30/11/2009

Welly welly welly. A little more has been done now. really need to take more photos when im doing things.

Erm seats first then. You really wouldnt beleivew how low they are compared to standard seats. I now have real propper head room and leg room too.









Saxo PAS pump. Looks to me like the fittings on it are the same as the fittings on the 306s engine driven pump so im gonna have to find somewhere clever to mount it. Got the pump and all the wiring for £40. not the best price I know but its nice and clean and i took it off a 51 plate low mileage car that looked cared for and the fliud in it was clean too.






307 Brakes. Mmmmmm 302mm discs are huge and weigh a ton but theyer on and definately an improvement over the GTi6 stuff even when i had the redstuff pads.









This is most of the wiring that i stripped oput the car (minus some of the airbag wiring and the amp wiring kits). Swapped the pug boot light switch for a normal one and this alone saved about 3m of wiring.





Also getting there with fitting the battery in the boot and the big methanol tank. The new tank takes about 10.5l and the old one took 4 US Quarts or about 3.5l so this should give me a bit more range with it.




Oh and my oil catch tank. I could only get a cheep one in red so this is after i sprayed it matt black



Last but defo by no means least is the ongoing head work. Now the head is stripped all i need if for jonny be to give me a call about getting his mate to take a look at it and hopefully well be away.


Oh and did I add that I sent my cam off to piper on friday too so hopefully thatll be back to me with its new profile soon.

Anyway back to the head. I started stripping it out the other day. first to come off was the leak off pipes (held on with a clip on each injector) and the glow plugs and fuel rail that my socket set made light work of. Then undid the nuts to the side of the injectors and they just wiggled out. Stuck a screwdriver through the pulley onto the head and undud the nut and then the 3 nuts that hold the vaccume pump on. Next started on the cam holder thing. went round it in a spiral cracking each nut then a couple of rounds giving them 1 turn then took the bolts all the way out and off the cam came. Easy peasy. Last and probably most difficult job was taking the studs out the head. this involved screwing 2 nuts onto the end of the stud and tightening them againse each other then using a spanner on the inner nut to undo the stud. this worked on all of them except the last studd that i snapped and now need to drill out of the head.







Next to take the valves out. I went out and brought a valve spring compressor (thirty five ****ing quid :o:o:o ) and a box with a load of compartments to keep all the valves and bits in. First i lifted out the hydraulic tappets and rockers and left them in their own compartments. Valve spring compressor is so easy to use. The inlet valves are absolutely caked in shit as are the ports (and this engine is only on 60k) and finally i popped out the core pulgs and threw them away.














03/12/2009

Ghaz the meth system was rebuilt with a bigger tank different nozzles and new hoses.

Ben the ko3 was fitted cos its a straight swap and Ive still not got the gt17 machined.

Darren it cant be the catch tank cos its been popping its dip stick for a while now.

The new turbo is a definate improvement however we think the problem is its loosing too much boost pressure past the piston rings so i gotta hurry up with this rebuild. Gonna try and get it done over christmas and fitted in january




10/12/2009

Well got all my parts from pug now bar the pistons that should be here monday.

Block, crank, head and brand new rods are at the machinists.

Gotta pick up manifolds and fly wheel from kris tomorrow and take them to the machinists as well along with turbos that need machined.

brand new bosch glow plugs arrived today £25 off ebay.

just about to call piper about my cam and see how thats comming along.




devils_fuel
any ideas what bhp will this new beast produce at the wheels chris??

Dum-Dum
Well other cars with a fmic and big turbo hit 175bhp ish. plus 5bhp for methanol. so call it 180bhp but thats at the fly prob only 140 ATW

might be more with all the other mods though

I really aint got a clue if im honest could hit 150-210bhp ATF i honestly dont know


Ideally Id love to see a nice round 200bhp but realistially i dont expect to see over 180bhp.

The rebuild is all about knowing the engine is perfect for pushing to its limits when i get the fuel pump and injectors. Basically it makes the final stage a £500 job. £170 for injectors, £170 for a pump and £170 for a map.

The lightening and balancing and removing the PAS pump is all about making sure the engine spins as freely as possible and bringing the ATF and ATW figures closer (theres something like a 23% difference on most 306s)

The overbore, and porting work is to give the engine an easy life by not needing so much boost to flow the same ammount of air. You need less psi to flow 100cfm of air through a 2.5" pipe compared to 2" pipe.

The Rail pressure sensor and remap is to ensure im getting the absolute maximum fuel from the pump and at higher pressure to get the bset possible atomisation and burn.

[Dum-Dum]

14/12/2009

Hahar! Looked like the Exh housing of my GT15 was ****ed so not sutiable for machining out. However Turbo Dynamics say theyy think theyve got a spare and theyll do all the work for me for £200 or for £500 thell also put a bigger compressor wheel into my GT17 so id really be able to make some boost.

The engine shop has all my bits now, theyer moaning cos diesel kills the chemicals in their steam cleaner so they been waiting till the stuff nearly needed changed anyway then clean all my bits. They seem happy enough though and work is comming on at a pace.

Pistons turned up on saturday so fresh from pug HQ in france you can still smell the garlic on them.




24/12/2009

Ive got my turbo sorted now. KO3S inside a KO3 housing with water and oil cooling £700.

Cam has arrived. £152 Delivered and it looks good at least.

Got my 3" exhaust ordered. 1 silencer, 2 long straights and 3 45deg bends £170

As far as engine machining goes the block is bored and the fly wheel is down to 7kg but the machine shop shut early for christmas due to the bad weather so i aint got any of it back to start building up. now looking tight for being run in by santa pod




24/12/2009

Well it would be rude not to add pics as im at home now


Turbo








Cam, i wont show you inside the box, you all know what a cam looks like.







Right as somebody asked for it heres the full spec for my engine (as far as i can remember anyway)


Big bits that Ive brought
Piper Cam
40mm External wastegate Demon Motorsport
Pug +0.6mm oversize pistons (comes with rings) takes capacity to 2025cc)
Pug Standard HDi rods (theyer the same across all DW10 engines)
Turbo Dynamics Custom KO3/KO3S Hybrid turbo
Saxo Electric PAS pump
ARP rod bolts
Adaptors for oil temp and pressure gauge sendors
Brand new bosch glow plugs
3" straight through single box exhaust
Oil catch tank
Grp N engine Mounts
Nissens Alloy Rad
probably a new oil cooler to go in the wheel arch



Little bits from Pug
Rocker Cover Gasket
Inlet and Exh gaskets
Head Gasket (when i work out what thickness i need)
Crank Bearings
Con Rod Bearings
Fuel Pressure Sensor 1.6HDi
injector copper washers
Full set of manifold studs and nuts
Full set of core plugs (head and block)
Exhaust fitting kit
Oil pump chain
head bolts
bottom end bolts
cam shaft oil seal
crank shaft oil seal
valve stem oil seals
leak off pipes



Machining services
All parts steam/chemical cleaned
Block overbored, honed and faced
manifolds Ported, polished and faced
Head ported, polished and faced with multi angle valve seats.
Valves lightened
New valve guides pressed in
Fly Wheel, Lightened to 7kg and balanced
Crank, Rods and Pistons all balanced
A/C sump (as the drain is at the back rather than underneath) with a plate welded on the bottom to cope with speed humps.




04/01/2010

Engine Build Started

Right I got my block back today, its been skimmed, overbored and honed so finely youd hardly be able to notice.

So as its already been cleaned I got straight to masking it up and painting it. I put it on a skate board so I can wheel it in and out of the garage to keep her warm when Im not painting. Shes just had her first coat of blue hammerite and Im just about to go and do another.

Think I should of given her a coat of white primer as the blue isnt coming up as light as Id like on the dark coloured block.












Its been so cold outside today the paint wasnt drying so Ive sat in the garage with it for the last 2 hours with the big gas heater on it and Im now wishing that Id left the door open cos Ive got a headache from the fumes. Shame the paint was still tacky after that. Think its cos it wasnt drying between coats earlier so itll take ages to dry now.

Its gonna sleep in the kitchen tonight and hopefully Ill be able to feed her a crank and some pistons tomorrow afternoon.

Piccies of after the second coat (she got 3 in the end) and in the garage warming up.








05/01/2010

Oh and did I say I popped up to Serdi this morning, bribed them with 3 boxes of biscuits and they said Id have the bottom end by tonight and the rest by the end of the week. Happy days. The head porting looks really good. The inlet ports are now huge, I recon I could get 3 fingers in there. If it dosent make good power I think I might cry.





05/01/2010

Crank, Fly and Exh Mani Here Now


Right ive got back late form rally design (gatting buckets, oil cooler and other shiny bits) so ive not started building tonight but

The exhaust manifold is here ready for me to fit the wastegate flange and the lightened and balaned crank fly are here ready to fit.














Erm bugger, forgot to buy engine assembly lube so didnt get far tonight, just got crank shells in, core plugs swapped and cleaned paint off the bottom of the block.








06/01/2010

Bottom end nearly done

Bottom end is nearly done, just waiting for rod bearings to arrive and ill have it done in a hour or 2.

Right piston oil spray jet. Got really worried with these cos i tried cleaning them through with WD40 but it wouldnt go through. realised after 5 mins theres a valve inside them thats gotta be pushed in before itll soray through, suppose its to make the pressure so it actually hits the piston rather than dribbling out.
Got the bearings in the block to (thats easy, just clip in.)







Got myself a novelty coaster for the all important engine building tea.
Also Blue gaskey, engine lube and water wetter which i dont know if itll work but its gotta be worth a try.







Lubbed up the bearings and dropped the crank in, then swiftly took it out because i forgot the thrust washers. thrust washers in and crank back in i stopped worrying about the face my marker pen on the main caps had rubbed off when i realised pug had their numbers cast in. End float is pretty much zero, so small i cant measure it so well within tolerances.

Eventually found a torque wrench that went low enough to do the stage 1 tightening on the mains as its only 20 torques then found that when i went on to the angle tightening i was having to use so much force the engine was just spinning on the bench. Clever solution was put it on its side on the floor and push down on the breaker bar.







End plate on the block all blue gasketed up ready to go on once id put the oil pump chain on the sprocket and then put the pistons and rods together. for the balancing the pistons were within 6g of each other (they only weigh 190g ish (IIRC)though so 3% difference) but they are all no exactly the same to within 0.1g. Rods were only 5g apart but supposedly the big end to small end weight ratio thingy was the worst bit. However now also within 0.1g.

[Dum-Dum]

08/01/2010

Compleeted!

Its done at my end. All down to KrisB now.

Quick pic of my exhaust. 3" bore and TBH looks like it should of been put on a bus.






Right putting pistons in. Cleaned the bores with WD40 and a clean rag. I put some short lenghts of hose over the con rod bolts to stop them accidentially dinking the crank as i tapped them in. Clipped the correct bearing into the rod and lubed the bearing. I then stuck my hand in the 10w40 and speared all around inside the bore and the ring compressor to ease the instalation. It really is easy, clamp the ring as tight as you can, put it in making sure its the right way round for the valve cut outs and tap it in with a hammer handle and it really is just taps.











Got the head back, its fully ported, blended, gasket matched and got 5 angle valve seats. best of all i was told that cos it was done on the machine the valves didnt need grinding in. saves me a job then.











09/01/2010

On with the head then. dipped the valve stem oil seals in 10w40 and pushed them over the valve stems. Next got my neatly numbered box and pulled springs and caps out of it one by one and compressed tham onto their corresponding valve. All i can say is its an absolute pain in the arse to get collets onto the valve. took me about a hour to do all 8. I found the best thing to work on was a wood work bench as that has a gap in he middle for the compressor to hang through but still keeping the head flat.





Next hydraulic tappets. I was told to check if they were squidgy and push the old oil out of them, using a vice if necessary but TBH they were all so nice with so little oil i think theyd been done for me and they forgot. Dipped them in oil ad dropped them in their corresponding hole then clipped the rocker on top.







Old and new rail sensors.



After this i lubed up the cam carrier and head bearing and also put some blue gasket round the cam carrier edge too. torqued that up in sequence then moved onto the ancilaries. bolted in new bosch duraterms, 60k injectors, leak off pipes, vaccume pump, cam pulley etc.





Finishing up i put on the crank oil seals and had to angle tighten the rod bolts. I couldnt be bothered to use a breaker bar so i got the protractor and marked 2 lines 70deg apart on an impact wrench socket. put the socket on noting where the line lined up with then pulled the trigger till the next line appeared at the mark. so much easier. Bolted on the oil pump and dip stick tube and thats about it really.


Plenty of things for Kris to do.



Compleete (for me) pics








KrisB
Right then, the car is with me at the moment. So i might aswell take over the project thread for a bit, i'll try and take the laptiop into work to, a) because i need autodata and b) incase i need to look anything up. Meaning i can get the job done quicker and when i'm drinking tea i can update you lot.

2moro is going to be a case making a start on the massive list of things chris has given me to do, all in the way he wants me to do it too. I need to get the block out of the car and measure up to find out what size head gasket i need. Then i'll probably crack on with all the other bits which aren't engine related, like seat subframes, make up the exhaust system for him, get the saxo powersteering pump up and running etc.

Once i've got a good enough headgasket i'll be getting the engine together and building up as much as possible, before removing the old engine. In the process fit his new radiator, oil catch tank and so on.

I know there's a lot more than the above to be done, i've only glanced at the first PAGE of the BOOK he's written me....

To be continued, with lots of pics and updates 2moro!




13/01/2010
KrisB
right, finally managed to get the oil cooler in, first time round after spending ages making brackets and tripple checking it'll fit... The electric power steering pump is now in, pipes modified and all connected, just got to sort the electrics but thats minor.

Just about to get chris's selection of gauges wired in and pipes ran to the engine compartment ready for when the engine goes back in. Chris should be here in a couple of hours with these last few bits. I've found someone who will weld the cast exhaust manifold for me (properly) so that means i can get the wastegate pipe on, heading over towards the battery tray then the screamer pipe can point down to the floor by the passenger front wheel, wastegate easy to get at in this position. I think i'll need to either remove or move the water heater (glowplug thingy on top of the gearbox) otherwise the wastegate won't fit.

Phoned round a few places today and i'm really struggling to find a 1.5mm mls headgasket. If anyone know where i can get one them we would appreciate it lots!

Anyway, although today has been slow i've got the two main things in that i wanted to get in today and if i'm honest i think i've done a reasonably good job on most stuff, the cable ties around the pump are needed, you can't just use the one pump bracket on its own but having two brackets means the headlight won't fit. I'll upload some pics shortly, i'm at the workshop now so internet is very poor!


Right, couple of pics.

Oil cooler fitted, took ages to get it lined up and held in place ready to measure and make brackets for it. I think the pics do the talking here.







i cant see any problems with the cooler where it is. I'm going to modify the arch liner so it allows airflow but doesnt let dirt in. If anything i would say it's better where it is at the moment because it's away from other heat sources. The fogs are coming out which will help.

It wont affect airflow to the brakes at all! The arch liner will when it goes back in, standard or modified. Airflow doesnt really matter over the oil cooler. The fins are what do the cooling, dispersing the heat from the pipes inside, airflow is beneficial to cool the surrounding areas. Less heatsoak in a way.

Anyways, chris, stop posting on here and hurry up and get to me with these bits! I feel like absolute crap. Bad gut, headache, cough... Last thing i effing need.

I'll do p/s pump pics when i get home, cant be arsed to update as i go. Just gonna crack on with washer bottle then gauges... Might take my mind off feeling so shite.






Finally got the engine in... Powered by krisb! Yo!




















na, really, just got some pics from when i was doing the p/s pump. I'll explain as i go with the pics. So, here it goes if anyone else wants future reference.

Disconnect to bracket from the pump.




remove as much material as you can from the bracket. In this picture the bracket is laying on it's back and the pump is upright.





grind a little bit of chassis leg off, i took off a little too much, it's so hard to get the pump sitting like it does when it bolts down without bolthing it down and drilling the holes first. So, i'm gonna rub a weld across what i ground off when the welder is back.

Also, you see in this picture, there is a green wire and a brown plug. You need to ground the green wire somewhere else, i found a point under where the headlight would be, cleaned it up and put a bolt through. The brown plus just unplugs and has no use there, wrap it up in tape so it doesnt fill with water. Also, with the earth point, you need to flatten the pointy bits off so you can get the pump a bit further in.

If you really wanted, you could drill a hole in the inner wing that the pump will fit through... Alowing some of the pump to be in the wing and less under the bonnet.





run the pipes. Drained the metal pipe pipes of oil because you need to get them hot and glowing in a few places to bend/twist it. The rack has been draining onto my floor for the last few days. Good enough. Painted the pipe black after because the paint burns off.

The reason for the cable ties?

Well, simply, if you have both brackets on you can't fit the headlight in. (bad enough you can't get the cover on the headlight!). I get round this problem by cutting the rubbers off one of the metal mounts and attached them to the metal plate. Cable ties are to keep that side under tension otherwise the unit would be loose. A homemade metal sptip would allow vibrations to be passed from the pump to the car, which would give off a humming sound from that corner of the car.




plenty of room (none of the 12 were crushed)




thats it, i'll wire it in when the conduit (cable tidy stuff) i ordered off ebay turns up. It's just black, nothing special.





14/01/2010
KrisB

pics explain whats happening to be honest. Just like doing a jigsaw

i've been cleaning and painting as i go.

Bottom end:



oil spring



torque up the oil pump bolts. (still one snapped... Nearly as bad as the xud rocker covers lol) replaced the snap bolt.



chris's re-enforced sump fitted.






fitting ancilaries.






compare the above picture to what i pulled out of the car!




headgasket is ordered from pug, over £40 bloody quid! It was ordered on vor which doesnt qualify for my discount oh, and new flywheel bolts will be collected with the mls h/g. The fly bolts are supposed to be replaced once they're removed.

Manifold has been taken to the welding shop for blanking off the egr port, then attaching a pipe for the wastegate. Should be ready and delivered back to me 2moro afternoon. Seems to be a good place to get welding done, looks a shithole from the outside but inside hides plenty of top spec lathes, mills, sufrace grinders etc. They do head skims whilst you wait too for £40.

Hopefully 2moro i can get the head on and fit everything bar turbo and exhaust manifold.

[Dum-Dum]

Update from KrisB
Old engine is propper ****ed


One of the valves is covered in oil
You can move the pistons side to side in theit bores
The bores are all really scored
One of the pistons if full of metal shards
Ive eaten that K03 in under 3000 miles

Scrap value only really.






15/01/2010
KrisB

Here ya go lads, you're daily dose of pictures.

I've got the manifold welded and the wastegate pipe onto it now £80 to get that done, rip off!

Everything else is self explanitory, head on, manifolds on, fuel pipes and filter on, flywheel on. Just waiting on some more money from chris so i can get the cambelt kit and waterpump ordered in. Once i've got them and a few other bits then i'll be dropping the engine back in.

Anyways, loads of random pics so people can have a nosey.

Head on and torqued down.







Wastegate welded shut



Clean!



Next updates will be monday, i'm busy with other things 2moro and i'm off on sunday.

Now, a question...

Turbo is obviously fed with oil, so two of the ports are for oil. The other two are for water. Chris asked me to remove the water/oil heat exchange sandwich plate. Can i use the hoses from that and run them to the turbo?




19/01/2010
KrisB
I didnt really acheive much today, got the cambelt and waterpump on, one or two other bits. I can't finish it yet as we need a custom oil feed pipe for the turbo and i need some kind of reducer to take the water pipes to the turbo down to 8mm.

Got a new pipe for the oil/vapours from the cam, new cambelt pulley for the crank. O ring for the water manifold on the block. I've got smaller aux belt for it to run with just alternator. Talking of the alternator... it's rather noisey, bearings are a bit shot.

Me thinks clutch isn't liking 165bhp either. 6.5mm total thickness on the paddles, seems low to me.







22/01/2010








In the last two pics, you can see the piping for the water to the turbo from the stat housing. Although, i'm unsure as to if this is correct.

You can also see what looks to be arather expensive cutom oil feed pipe with built in filter.

23.5 inch aux belt, using just the alternator, bottom pulley and the small tensioner.




28/01/2010








29/01/2010
Kris
Weve had a few holdups, for starters rad lower hose has rusted through.

BTW, dumdum is on the phone to fooby. He reckons that we're only going to have 23.5 hours in the day from 2moro, reckons his car will rotate the earth quicker

Anyway, waiting on a new bottom hose from pug tomorrow, all pipes are back on, engine ready to be filled with fluids in the morning. It's ready to run now apart from welding on the wastegate and making the exhaust - which isn't going to take too long. Then a few cosmetic things to go back onto the front end, wire in the washer bottle, put arch liners back in.

At the moment, we're waiting on an adaptor for the oil pressure t-off, the one chris got is the wrong size. The lower hose.

Power steering is up and running, but not at it's full potential as battery hasn't been charged for 2 weeks.

Some random pics chris took.













30/01/2010

- Filled the car with fluids and had a few leaky core plugs

- uploaded the new map

- tried to start it and it wouldnt go

- Tried testing the crank sensor by waving a spanner in front of it, seemed dead so we replaced it.




01/02/2010

- still dosent start on new sensor.
- eventually realised we hadint swapped 2 wires on the plug for the new FRS. Doh!




03/02/2010

- Car Starts first time



Back to 01/02/2010

Kris
Right, chopped off the flange from the old downpipe and started from there really. One bend, a bit of straight pipe (welded on at a funny angle on purpose), then 2 more bends. I'm gonna use a bit of scrap from the first bit of straight pipe to join the last bend to the backbox so i don;t have to 'break into' a meter of pipe.

Measured up the tip chris cut off some ebay backbox, measured up the the outlet of the backbox then headded over to kelvik welding where they made me a ring on the plasma cutter for a tenner. Saves me having to bodge the tip on.

I'll let the pics do the talking. Welds are actually tidier than they look. Just need wire brush treatment and them Chris's high temp paint. Like i said, the wonky exhaust is needed... if it's not wonky it'll either sit too low or hit the gear selector rod.





(Chris won't be happy, it took me all of 2 mins to remove all the silencing crap from the middle of that tip... bought a better drill)















02/02/2010

Well, i got the exhaust finished and on, sits propper nice without knocking too

Gave it a wash and started to weld in the seat bars for the passenger side, ran out of box section so i'll grab more 2moro. Finish welding thursday when i get the welder back.

Also, i left my camera cable at work, so no pics just yet, i'm gonna go through the alley to sainsburys to see if they have a card reader. If not i'll get a taxi to tesco and back.




02/02/2010
KrisB
Anyway, some pictures.





Is very shiney!!










Screamer pipe








I found some stickers under the dirt...










05/02/2010

Went to pick my car up and give her a run but ater letting her warm up (which she did very nicely) we noticed a puddl of oil underneath. Turned out the crank seal (that i fitted) on the fly wheel end was leaking.

So i had to get a train home. It was such a shame cos the car sounded so nice especially the exhaust.

[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M42gzVwiNN4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M42gzVwiNN4[/url]



Someone asked what my plans are for when i get her back.
The list is;

Cosmetically im gonna paint the interior satin black
re-tint the back windows
consider twin oil coolers
attack the bumper for air flow
fit my deep rear spoiler
fit second washer bottle
smooth fake filler cap
strut brace
colour coding and polishing on the engine

then as for power
merc injectors
bmw pump
maybe propane and nitrous injection instead

before power mods though im gonna buy myself a new bike, a decent digital camera and take the missus on holiday.

oh and i want a 206 HDi ECO box and a LSD




11/02/2010







14/02/2010

Big Hissy fit as car is all ready but stupid new CG motorsport clutch dosent work. It wont fully disengage. tried fitting a new clutch cable and spacing out the ends but to no avail.




20/2/10

Long story but the car is now at home outside my garage sadly missing its towing eye. Spoony towed me back from krisses. I kept telling him to keep left so i could keep right to keep the bar as straight as possible but hes an ignoramus and kept right to the point he was drgging me over the cats eyes in the middle of the road. That is scary as **** when all i can see, due to the sun strip and sitting so low, is a focus. Anyway we got about 40 miles done out of 50 and braking up to a roundabout with him still in the bloody wrong position ping scraaaaappppppppppppeeeeeeeeeee he ripped my towing eye clean off. I am going to kill him slowly and painfully when i think of a fitting method.

Anyway after calling all of my mates who have tow trucks or car trailers I called the AA who took nearly 2 hours to come out then realised there was no good way of getting my car onto the truck without a tow eye or being able to get to the loops underneath. The AA flat beds dont carry tools and arent allowed to carry tools, not even a jack so there was no way of getting under or getting the splitter or even whole bumper off.

In the end I had to sign not to sue for any damage and we wrapped a strap round the slam pannel and towed it up the "special ferrari ramps" and up the bed with that.

Drama over anyway.

Absolutely loving my new fixxed back bucket seats. So comfy

[padge]

This was the only hdi car i followed, looked epic tbh! even got pics of it on my facebook.

[Poodle]

What was it this died of in the end mate?

[Jonny b]

What was it this died of in the end mate?

Dum Dum being a pussy and not finishing what he started the big girl

[procta]

i remember the build of this car, a lot of hard graft and research went into it. shame the car was stripped and scrapped.

[Dum-Dum]

What was it this died of in the end mate?

Mainly electrical issues

[procta]

dumdum what happened to the dutton?

[Matt]

Bloody hell dum I forgot how much work went into this !

[Dum-Dum]

dumdum what happened to the dutton?

Sold it. It really was a huge amount of work and i just dont have the time and £70 a month for a garage could be better spent elsewhere

[jammapic]

Have you ever finished a project Dum?

[Dum-Dum]

Have you ever finished a project Dum?

Yep, i finished the sedan, finished the polo valver and ive finished my current car